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The duct from the front to the back exits under both seats it is two piece, the outlet Is a push fit into the feed duct from the front. If it is not pushed in correctly then the hot air from the front gets lost under the carpet. As the heat for the back comes from the front and is run through and boosted buy the rear heater.,, It is critical to make sure that the feed ducts are working properly. I agree that the rear fan could have been made quieter.

Great info thanks

Let us know what happens with the grease

Hey good news. when did you first notice the grease, Where was the grease? Was it on the Boot or at the CV end or the shaft end? If the joint was really filled it could squeeze out of at the boot clamps. In any event it is good that the the kit has solved the leak

In the wagon version the rear speakers are in the sliding doors and the wires are in the zipper that hooks to the rear bottom of the door. If the harness is universal then they will be there.

Thanks for the up date. I think if you make enough polite noise they should come around. The District manager is the one to talk with I will have to check out the arm set up on mine Looking forward to the pictures

That's not good. Did Ford cover it? Was the arm damaged? Could you put on a new blade That adds another thing to check and worry about. Thanks for the info Good luck with the dealer

Good Call. Mine has 12388 on the clock this time of the year its 400 plus a week The leak has slowed to a drip I am wondering it the guys that have had the seal changed are leak free now?

Cool Can't wait

Sounds like a Half Shaft CV Joint Issue, How many miles on the TC

daneli did you get the new seal and CV joint? If you did is the Leak Cured?

Your leak sounds big let us know how it turns out Windguy have you checked yours again how many miles on your rig now

You need to take a ride with the scanner hooked up to catch a freeze frame when the check engine is set off. Did you pull the code when the light came on? The fuel pressure regulator is more likely to cause a power issue. Does it still have the weird noise under the car?

Good info, with the code cleared it will not set the code when you are putting the power to it and the power is good? if that is true then the compression is not the issue

If you clear the code and you are on the highway under load when will it send a code? if every thing else is good and the compression is 15% low it should not set a misfire code.

The 15% difference is not the skip We are missing somthing. Can you bump the Idle to 1500 then Disconnect the coil aand see what happens?

Check out http://www.cargurus.com There are several Transit Connects listed and the one you are looking at is on the high side Good luck and let us know how it turns out

Don't worry there is another one out there to buy. The wheel bearings are worth 75.00 (Ford Retail) and should not be more than 3 to 4 hours labor to install.

Sorry how many miles since your rebuild? did you check the cyl bores for taper and wear, how were the ring grooves in the pistons, if the cyl bore is out of round it can take a while to break in you could have a leak in a vacuum servo or some where else.

Sounds like you could offer less for the car because of the bad wheel bearings . All they can do is say no!

How many miles on the engine, the low compression would effect the cyl power and make the idle a little lumpy but should not cause a skip is the AC always affected when it skips Are the heater controls run by vacuum ? check for a vacuum leak

Is the skip all the time or at low speed only? Did you listen to the injectors with the screw driver? did you move the injector from cyl 3 to cyl 4? do the compression test. spray some carb cleaner or Mass air flow cleaner at the intake manifold see if the engine sound channges the noid light will tell you if the injector is firing but won't tell you if it is clogged

Just to cover all the bases a compression test should be done Could be an intake leak You said it has good power under load? Did you swap the coils?

Ok take a long shank screw driver and put it on the injectors, put your ear to the top You should here the injector clicking test all 4 of them for clicking. They should all sound the same. If they all are clicking add a bottle of Sea Foam fuel system cleaner and run that through the system let me know if it helps.

Get A Plug Just in case, Let me know