mrtn

I have had an independent shop replace mine several times. Can't be bothered with that myself. Got an allergy back when I had an Escort that had been in an accident and badly repaired. Chewed wheel bearings and shocks weekly. I got so proficient with it that I was able to replace a shock absorber in 15 minutes sharp. This included jacking up the wheel, removing it, clamping down the spring, removing the McPherson assy, replacing the shock and putting it all back together. Never again

My money is on the wheel bearing as well.

What are your impressions now, a year in? Fuel economy in different scenarios? Issues to be reported?

May be an engine mount on its way out.

Yes! http://www.autoblog.com/2016/04/26/ford-ecoblue-turbodiesel-engine-transit-van/

First put in the Transit and Transit Custom. No mention of Connect. If there's even a slight chance of this coming to Connect I'll hit brakes on my search for the new van right now.

Never seen one. Pictures?

SUBWOOFERS! Not kidding. What else?

The ding protectors are attached by double sided tape.

Also thought of getting a fiberglass enclosure but it'd be on the way for most of the time.

Oh, those are houses. Mine's just a standard flatbed.

Wait, does the towball move in the attachment? It should not. I did have some Westfalia towbar in my Civic and it was hard to get to tight because it was based on some eccentric tightening principle but all others have been very tight. The one in my other car is Bosal and it sits so tight that it does not fix itself if there's even one sand grain between it. So it needs to be clean and then just insert, and it clicks, automatically tightening itself:

Mine's Mk1 and has no probs even with overweight trailers. Once transported a scissor lift of the size of my van. That felt a bit heavy, it was only a couple of miles so I took it really slow. I'm sure the new model is even better.

Common sense is the key here as pretty much anywhere. Up to 60 mph everything is usually safe. Above that different things start to happen. Every wind gust, every emergency braking becomes an issue. Always strap everything down so stuff don't move around in case of braking or turns. The trailer has to be a bit nose heavy. 100 lbs at the handle is good (like an unloaded trailer). Never have it in balance or tail heavy, it may cause fishtailing and/or lift your car up. Think in advance, keep plenty of room in front of you for emergency, mind the corners - leave enough space for the curb. Keep in mind that your car is now twice the length and act accordingly. I have a 5x10' singe axle light trailer I drive weekly.

Remove the plastic corners (warning, there's also a screw) and just clip the lip in place. It has no other attachment than the clips and matching holes in the metal bumper, inspect those in advance so you figure out the movement. Then reattach the corners which cover the ends of the lip.

Nate, it does not seem to be the rule here, see my post on page 1, there are two European models there, one with an amber side marker, the other clear.

Me too, I'm on the verge of pulling the trigger on a new van.

Check the transit connect'ed facebook page, there was one posted just a few minutes ago.Here:

Seen 18" and 20". Which models are you planning?

Hey, how do the rear speaker panels come off? Doesn't look like it has any screws anywhere.

DRL are usually a standalone relay based solution. Auto lights are dependent on rain sensor.

Heh. I think I'll just go and pick one up in Germany.

In addition to that: fuel pump (usually wears out gradually, not in one day), cam position sensor.

How many miles on the engine?

It keeps the rear end clean and their logos visible. Obviously.