mrtn

This sounds very much like grounding problem. You need to check all wiring again. I also had a bad contact on the alternator wire, one of the battery ground cables broke mid drive (battery was loose in tray, the cable connected to the body snapped) but I doubt you have anything wrong with that. Start by looking for the relevant fuse box and removing reinserting all relevant fuses/relays. Check for moisture.

The best place to start with this would be the UK forum. I doubt anyone ever went back to Pre-facelift, there have been plenty of conversions to the new nose: http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=139422 There were two facelifts, actually. The original one was without a visible grille and had bumps in place of recovery points. 2006-2009 had smooth and round bumper with a matte/shiny grille popular back then in many Ford vehicles. 2010-2013 you already know.

Both my Mk1 Connects (diesel) have (had) the same key with a blue transponder bit in it. There's a reader coil around the key barrel in the column. It's for the immobiliser. So did my 1993 full size Transit.

Thank you for asking. I'm only on my third tank (different stations) and would like to fill up at least three times at the same pump to make sure the off-switch triggers exactly at the same pressure and can make precise calculations. The trip computer thinks it's averaging 25 mpg but my calculations at the LPG pump say 21.7 so it's within specs. I'll get back to you.

Haven't noticed any leaks yet. Did check, of course.

Dashcams, gentlemen, you heard it here first.

Who was at fault? Insurance?

Wait. Did you replace the whole instrument cluster with a new one and it behaves exactly the same?

I think it was €90, the guy resoldered all contacts and replaced the temperature indicator motor because it got damaged when removing the needle.

The cluster problems are common. I had mine repaired because one power pin was broken.

Fair enough. This might be the first time I have heard anyone disagreeing on insulation and amplification tho.

Replacing speakers will only improve the sound marginally. You should also insulate the doors with plenty of tar mat (3 layers + anchoring to the safety beam). This has more effect than new speakers alone. I suppose you are not going to add an amplifier either?

Any auto electrician would patch it up for your for a fraction of the price. It's a rather simple junction box and pretty damn water tight. Does it light up any codes?

In the US Ford only introduced the long wheelbase/high roof model. It was also available short/low in Europe. No other length/height combos.

What do you need? I have both, Mk1 & Mk2 LWB.

The plugs for the vans without the roof rack are a step back from the Mk1 where they were screw-in type and tight. The new ones are single use clips and have no method of tightening. Just hope they sit tight enough to block leakages.

I think I have read about it (3-4 speed only) in UK forum. Can't recall.

Did you check the plug? I had the plug molten due to high load (stuck pollen filter)

Get a backup camera. The Best thing ever.

Screen saver?

The alternator must be able to charge both.

Good input, well appreciated.

jrm223, the side of the pond or LostInTransit's psychosis has no significance here. Transit Custom does not exist in the US and number of seats is irrelevant. I know you mixed up Transit/Tourneo Connect and try to resolve it with a meaningless attack when I explained the difference in detail.

Not exactly: Transit Connect is a compact cargo van Transit Connect Kombi is a lower/mid trim level variant with seats of various configurations Tourneo Connect is a passenger van version with a liftgate and mid-high trim level Titanium), various interior color combos. Transit Custom is a midsize van/m inibus up to 9 passengers or a big cargo space. Transit is a full size cargo or passenger van/bus

And to be really precise that isn't even Transit Connect, it's Transit Custom.