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Thanks. I really couldn’t understand why Ford was so adamant about this. Of course they don’t want me to install in the first place. They don’t want anyone to do anything to the vehicle. Typical I guess. I’ve had good life out of batteries on my motorhome, motorcycles, and front end loader keeping them on smart chargers.

Thanks so much for all of the info on the topic!!!! Mine just let go in the driveway. It is about 8 degrees out and I had been driving for about an hr already. I was going into work late to bring my daughter to school. My wife usually brings her. Picked up a coffee on the way back for my wife after drop off and when I got back in the car, I was stuck in park. The shifter would just slide back and forth and would not go into gear. Came super close to calling a tow to bring to the garage and decided to look it up in this great forum instead... Booiom.... there it was. Thanks for the part numbers and pics on how to make it happen. Definitely getting a spare... My glove box is running out of space due to spare parts??‍♂️. I’ve got a 2016 transit connect with 96,000 by the way.

I cannot thank you enough for this post. I just had the bushing fail my 2016 XLT, just passed 60k miles. my wife was backing out of our driveway when it failed. Luckily our neighbor is having the driveway worked on and the workers pushed her back up. I ordered 2 of the OEM bushing and cover in case my 2014 Titanium has the bushing fails on my 2014 Titanium.

This just had this happen to me sitting at a gas station 50 miles from home. The bushing held together long enough to get home after I found the linkage and popped it back on. To reiterate OriginalJud's point, it is located right under the airbox hose on the driver's side on top of the engine. The design may suck but at least it isn't impossible to get to. That being said, I am glad this happened when I was driving and I can fix it for a couple of bucks. I had my family with me and it could have resulted in several hundred dollars of cost to me if I had to have it towed, had to take a cab home, and have it repaired at the dealer. To be in Reverse when Drive is indicated by the shifter (not the dash) is a safety concern that may lead to an accident resulting in property damage or harm. I do not think the driver is properly warned of this failure even though I think it is detectable. I think the design should have a retainer that prevents the failure in case the bushing comes apart and allows the driver to feel the sloppiness of the linkage as a result. The interlink of Park and key meant I could not take the key out of the ignition.

I stumbled upon this thread and became concerned that I ought to replace this bushing on my 2016 TC. So I went to the Ford dealer and bought the bushing and cover and attempted to replace it. But I can't figure out how to detach the shift cable from the trans. I got my hand on the cable end and pushed and tugged every which way but nothing gives. Is there some secret to detaching the cable? The bushing certainly doesn't appear ready to detach on it's own and leave me stranded. Then I realized the existing bushing is orange, same as the new one I bought ... not black and nasty like the failed one shown in the pictures posted by Kruss77. So maybe when my TC was built they used a newer improved bushing and I can just forget about this issue? Thoughts? BTW ... I am a recent forum member with 2016 TC Titanium purchased three years ago with 5k miles on it, now with 55k mostly trouble free miles.

So I have the same car as you ford transit connect xlt 2015 this happened to me thank gd we figured it out with your post we reinforced it with the new bushing and cover costing $20. We also put a zip tie so it won’t pop out. why is there no recall on this for our transits? I was reversing into my Driveway and all do a sudden put the car in park and it just get going it was stuck in reverse.

I looked into my toy bag. I'm hoping that I have the right combination of extensions and spark plug sockets to do the job. That big piece is a deep well spark plug socket, for engines like Transit Connect with deep wells & coil over plug. I've got a couple of different swivel spark plug sockets in different styles. A few extensions, a swivel, and a finger spinner. I've got a couple of spark plug sockets without the swivel, in 3/8" & 1/2" drives. 1/2" in case I need the torque to break it free. Not so crazy. Some people do that. Some people clean the spark plugs also.

OEM plugs are .50 gap. Your new plugs are .52. Rule that out. As I was looking, I see that Autolite plugs are $4, and there is a $3 rebate. I found this online: Low Fuel Pressure– If there isn’t enough fuel getting to the engine, this will cause combustion to be less than optimal. Diagnosing low fuel pressure can be tricky. Typically, if you do have low fuel pressure, the vehicle will act fine when it doesn’t need a lot of fuel. But, it’ll sputter and act like it’s going to die at speed or under heavy acceleration. Here’s some information on how to tell if you have a bad fuel filter. Vacuum leak– If your Focus has a vacuum leak, it can be very difficult for it to get the right air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to misfire and it’ll throw the P0300. Also, since a vacuum leak almost always affects each cylinder the same, you’ll typically get P0300 with it and not any cylinder specific misfire codes. Here’s a great article from Popular Mechanics on how to detect a vacuum leak. It’s easy (and kind of fun) to chase one down. Popular Mechanics: How to find a vacuum leak. EGR Problems– If the EGR system is not able to recycle the engine gasses right, it’ll throw P0300. Ignition Problems– Bad plug wires (if equipped), bad coil packs, and spark plugs can cause misfires to occur. This isn’t higher on the list because typically you’ll get a misfire in one cylinder specifically, and not a P0300 only. If you got a P302 or something similar with the P0300, it may be a good idea to check and see if there is any damage or failure from your ignition components. Here’s how to test a coil pack, how to tell if a spark plug is bad (video), and how to test plug wires (video). Cam or Crank Sensors– This one is very unlikely, but it does happen. If the ECU is not getting the right signal from these sensors, the vehicles timing is not going to sync up and it’ll misfire. Low Compression– If you have a leaking head gasket, bent valve, cracked head, etc.. that would cause compression to not be as high as it should, you’re going to get P0300. You should also feel the vehicle is down on power as well. Most Common P0300 Fixes A lot of the time, P0300 is going to be fixed by something obvious, such as an EGR leak. When it’s not glaringly obvious what is wrong, a tune up is a great place to start.

My ex liked to reuse paper towels. Wipe your clean hands, the paper is still clean. You just washed them. Spread it back out by a window. It dries. Reuse it. I have hand towels. Wash and reuse.

If I pull plugs, new plugs go in. Same way I am not draining transmission fluid to send in a few ounces for used oil analysis, pour it through a coffee filter in the funnel, back into the transmission. Same thought process for changing the oil filter with the oil. Bizarre that some people will change the filter, not the oil, and just top off because the bottle of oil claims XX,XXX miles. Or changing the oil, but not changing the filter, because filter advertisement claims XX,XXX miles. Some people drain radiator fluid, then pour it back in through a funnel with a screen. Not just reading it online. I have seen all this in real life.

Safelite wanted $500+ installed. Bought one to do myself.