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Marquizzo

What happened to my 2019 TC fuse box?

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I'm trying to check if I've blown a fuse in my 2019 Transit Connect. However, the fuse boxes look like nothing I've ever seen before.

 

This is what my owner's manual says the engine fuse box will look like. 

EF54ED5E-126F-433B-8A63-09A8B6C8B10D.thumb.jpeg.193981b21b9e750228f7f88cdfad81f2.jpeg

 

I found the the cover with the fuse icon and removed it

8A73AA45-FD88-4B0B-B222-A43F1B8D2839.thumb.jpeg.0f0bacd0be24ee61f42aad1d6250bf9e.jpeg

 

But when I look inside, I get this black box with only 2 giant plugs sticking out of it.

27A52AC0-23EF-49EC-9CD9-8BC13A1BBE56.thumb.jpeg.0c41ba67c7f0454bc44b100d5a4808a5.jpeg

 

What exactly am I looking at? Is this a new generation of fuse boxes? Is it safe to take out these plugs? How can I check if I've blown a fuse?

 

I get the same thing with the passenger compartment fuse box. This is the view from underneath the glove box: It's a Black box with 3 big plugs coming out of it.

9D499430-7F56-4A94-A73E-83E566D89E44.thumb.jpeg.7530cd9276acc6bac564c2868a6d1d34.jpeg

 

Is this just another layer I need to remove before accessing the traditional fuses we're all accustomed to?

 

Edited by Marquizzo
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I figured it out! It turns out that to get to the actual fuse-box (in my 2019 Passenger TC at least), you now need to take about 5 additional steps. I'm gonna document it here for anyone else that might be running into the same issue.

 

Make sure the engine is turned off and the keys are out of the ignition!!

 

1. Remove those 2 large plugs by pulling up on the white tabs.

IMG_1472.thumb.JPG.57d46807e8a3745e4bdd72810db4d8f3.JPG

 

2. You'll see the exposed black box with two tabs at the top. Pull down on the left and right tabs to unlatch and pull out. (Don't drop it!)

IMG_1473.thumb.JPG.225b7817f3a789ab6d7c7a5aa6cc0b5a.JPG

 

3. Here's the box outside the engine compartment. It was a struggle to angle it correctly to take it out of there because it's such a tight fit.

IMG_1474.thumb.JPG.25c54468e2034042936856fab272f363.JPG

 

4. Flip it over and you'll see the fuse symbol again. There's another tab at the bottom, unlatch that

IMG_1475.thumb.JPG.4797923fe10f4397ff8e56f2b73e9797.JPG

 

5. Ta-da! We FINALLY have the traditional fuse-box that was expected. It only took a bunch of extra steps and a day to gather the courage to disassemble the thing.

IMG_1476.thumb.JPG.567f2867cd0945c5c350a05f1f1301d5.JPG

 

I can only assume the passenger compartment fuse box is just as complicated, if not more because it's a real awkward twist to fit my body underneath the glove-box. I wish it was as accessible as my 2006 Escape with a simple panel to open from the driver's side.

 

 

Edited by Marquizzo

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Thanks for that info. I am trading in my 2015 right now and am picking up my 2020 tomorrow. I saw your earlier post and was plannning to make sure they showed me during the pickup process.

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@DonShockley If possible, ask them to show you how to access the passenger compartment fuse-box! The user manual says it's under the glove-box, but they don't mention that it's buried under a carpet that you must remove, and you need to twist your body into the footwell to reach below then up. It's been an absolute nightmare to figure out.

Edited by Marquizzo

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Welcome to ford's "Customer Service" ! I guess what they really mean is "the customer services our wallets" !!

My 2016 electricals seem DELIBERATELY designed to force people to go to dealers for ANYthing - and pay 'an arm & leg' for it.

Thats why I prefer less gadgets and gizmos in my car - at least from the factory !

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13 hours ago, Gideon said:

....My 2016 electricals seem DELIBERATELY designed to force people to go to dealers for ANYthing - and pay 'an arm & leg' for it.

Thats why I prefer less gadgets and gizmos in my car - at least from the factory !

Current vehicles are basically miniature computer networks so it's nearly impossible to do any old school repairs or upgrades. How on earth do you build a vehicle where the ONLY latch release is controlled by an electrical module with no physical handle with mechanical linkage for backup. That's happened to a couple forum members with the rear liftgate failures.

 

But I do see some reasoning behind that fuse box design, at least from a reliability standpoint. That double cover setup and the fact that they result in the fuses hanging upside down when installed would not allow water to collect in the fuse area even if the covers were left off or got cracked. Any penetrating water would drip out instead of collecting at the connections and causing corrosion. A secondary benefit would be that by disconnecting the plugs before gaining access you minimize the chance of damage during fuse replacement by shorting something else out while replacing fuses. Of course now you have an extra connector and it's powered fittings but if designed to handle clumsy people that can still be pretty reliable. But I'm just guessing based on the photos.

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Yeah, that tailgate latch is always in my mind. Something I'd never consider before is to make an opening in the liftgate and add a mechanical release with some sort of exterieur lock - just wishfull thinking for now.

No mechanical control is the result of "penny pinching" by manufacturers. They want the cheapest possible method and charge the max possible for it !!

 

Big problem with computerised controls: What training did the computer programmer have in mechanics ??  I'd hate to find out "in the middle of nowhere" that the software was  faulty,  hacked, or inappropriate !!

Edited by Gideon
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@DonShockley, were you able to get the dealer to show you how to access the passenger compartment fuse box?

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No. Service department was busy so they ended up doing the tire work over at the Quick Lane and they weren't allowed to touch things outside their normal "routine" service areas. 

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I've run into this same problem with my 2020 TC cargo. I wanted to tap into the fuse box to power a "keyed" fuse for the addition of some led running lights. That fuse box terrifies me. I'm going to see if I can tap into some wiring outside of that box. UGH!

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Something like this won't work?

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If there isn't room in the box, I'd just go with another box so you're ready for any extras as time goes on. Plan here is to add add an aux connector block similar to what I use on my motorcycles ...

6-way-led-illuminated-automotive-blade-f

 

 

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You could add a really box that is turned on by an ignition source.  Currently installing a Neutrino Element box on my motorcycle.  https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/details  Its really nice and probably overkill but has solid state fuses and PWM modulation on the output.  Bluetooth links to phone which can be used to set it up.  PWM is nice as it can control led brightness - I use it for controlling aux lights so they are brighter when I have high beams on.  There are other products out there that range from a simple fuse block to a powered fuse block that is switched on and off via an ingestion wire.  Not the ignition wire inputs are low power, basically just need a voltage signal.

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On my 2015 TC, when I wanted to add power to the overhead shelf, I used this box intended for motorcycles. What sealed the deal for me was the ability to change between constant power or switched just by moving the fuse on each circuit.

https://www.fuzeblocks.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-1-Distribution-Block_p_1.html

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