Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

[KevinRollin]

On 2/10/2020 at 11:09 PM, Fifty150 said:

Those bolts are the correct thread?  

Got the bolts today.  They’re the right pitch, and screw in easily to the tiedown anchor holes which are the same as the seats.  Too late tonight, but hopefully Friday I’ll get to put the lift on my driver seat.  

[sKiZo]

Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank?

 

(never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

Edited February 13, 2020 by sKiZo

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

10 hours ago, sKiZo said:

Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank?

 

(never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

I'm trying to figure out what this "tank trip" reading is. "Miles to empty" is one of the few things I use on the info display and even that rarely when I'm trying to stretch to where I know the gas is cheapest. It does automatically adjust when you put gas in, no reset required. Maybe the two are the same thing?

[jrm223]

He's probably referring to the tripmeter, at the bottom of the dash display. Hold the button in for 4-5 seconds to reset it. Fun fact, when a TC G2 says "0 miles to empty", it does still have a fair reserve (not that I recommend using it!) - enough to go about 35-40 miles at 70-75 MPH, lol. Hey, it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas - so that drive only went through like 2 little podunk towns, lol. Ran out just 2 blocks from home and had to walk for my gas can, then filled up first thing in the morning. 

[sKiZo]

From their website. Looks like I have to tell it when I fill the tank though ...

 

"Computer? Just filled the tank. Computer??"

Or just push the red button I guess.  <G>

 

~ ~ ~

 

The ScanGauge includes two trip computers based on the current tank of fuel. They include the Current Tank and Tank to Empty. Each trip computer starts automatically when you tell ScanGauge you have filled your tank.

• MPG for current tank
• Fuel Used on current tank
• Tank to Empty
• Distance Driven
• Distance Until Empty
• Hours driven on current tank
• Hours to Empty
• Average Speed
• Fuel Used Cost

[Fifty150]

9 hours ago, jrm223 said:

it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas

All my ex's live in Texas.

[KevinRollin]

It is possible to raise the front seats up 2” using easily-obtained parts with no drilling or machining.  

 

Is it safe?  That’s up to you.  I’m sure Internet Lawyers and Internet Engineers will be along shortly to debate it. I am neither of those.  

 

Here’s what you need:  

 

• Zone Off Road 2” body lift blocks (4 per seat) 
• M10x1.5 75mm class 10.9 steel screws/bolts
• Torx T50 bit (to remove OEM seat bolts)
• 15mm socket (to install new bolts)

[KevinRollin]

Here’s how to do it:

1. Lean your seat back forward so it centers the weight above the seat brackets. 
2. Remove all 4 bolts holding the seat in place using the Torx T50 bit.  
3. Miracle the seat into the air, or lean it forward/backward so that you can get the riser blocks under the seat brackets.  
4. Insert the new bolts through the seat bracket and risers, installing finger-tight for now.  
5. Once all bolts are in, tighten with the 15mm socket to the appropriate torque.  
6. Enjoy your new legroom and enhanced view of the road!  

[KevinRollin]

Imade the mistake of trying to use a pair each of 2” diameter and 3” diameter blocks.  I was thinking more surface area would be more structurally sound, but they don’t really fit. Don’t do that!  A 3” block fits in the rear outboard position, but the floor underneath that one isn’t really contacting much more than 2” of it anyway.  The front brackets need to be notched out for 3” to fit, and then they don’t sit flush on the body metal because of the vinyl flooring.  2” all around fit easily.  

Edited February 15, 2020 by KevinRollin

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

On 2/13/2020 at 10:30 AM, jrm223 said:

He's probably referring to the tripmeter, at the bottom of the dash display. Hold the button in for 4-5 seconds to reset it. Fun fact, when a TC G2 says "0 miles to empty", it does still have a fair reserve (not that I recommend using it!) - enough to go about 35-40 miles at 70-75 MPH, lol. Hey, it was 2am and I'm in rural Texas - so that drive only went through like 2 little podunk towns, lol. Ran out just 2 blocks from home and had to walk for my gas can, then filled up first thing in the morning. 

Perhaps you should have gone 80-85 mph so the momentum would have gotten you the last 2 blocks. ?

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

Nobody has mentioned the length of the stock bolt.

[KevinRollin]

2 hours ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

Nobody has mentioned the length of the stock bolt.

 

Which bolt?  The seat bolts?   About an inch.  A little over an inch.  Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch.  

 

I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?  

 

[Double Nickels]

This is one of the best mods so far.  Very creative.  

Edited February 15, 2020 by Double Nickels

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

8 hours ago, KevinRollin said:

 

Which bolt?  The seat bolts?   About an inch.  A little over an inch.  Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch.  

 

I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?  

 

 

No, just may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch. The length of the stock bolt is the starting point for determining the length of the replacement bolts. I cannot locate my Torx bit at the moment, otherwise I'd go ahead and pull one out to measure. Perhaps I should be a little more organized but the Torx bits are something I rarely, rarely use. At least not that large.

 

All that (unnecessary) crap around the instrument cluster can make it hard to see the speedo and such at different angles.

[KevinRollin]

1 hour ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

 

No, just may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch. The length of the stock bolt is the starting point for determining the length of the replacement bolts. I cannot locate my Torx bit at the moment, otherwise I'd go ahead and pull one out to measure. Perhaps I should be a little more organized but the Torx bits are something I rarely, rarely use. At least not that large.

 

All that (unnecessary) crap around the instrument cluster can make it hard to see the speedo and such at different angles.

I can see your point about 2” being too much.  There’s a 1.25” option using similar hardware and spacers. I’ll post it later.  

[KevinRollin]

1 hour ago, OLDSCHOOLFOOL said:

may not want to go up two inches. Maybe one inch.

1.25”: 

These bolts should leave the same thread engagement as OEM with a 1.25” spacer.  

Edited February 15, 2020 by KevinRollin
Attach graphics

[B0NE]

@KevinRollin 

Got to say thank you for doing the legwork on this mod. I used the 2" lifts, and what a big difference. Prior to this mod, I always felt that the seats were too low, had a great view of the sky though! No problems with view of the instrument cluster once I adjusted the wheel. This improved my comfort, view of the road, and the added storage room is awesome. No more stuffing my hiking boots under the seat, they fit right under no problem. I also did the passenger seat since it was so easy. Now I can fit the coleman stove under there when not actively using. It also makes it a lot easier to vacuum/wipe out. No more impossible to get to spots under there. Awesome, thanks again, made it easy.

 

Just an fyi for others, I'm six foot and the 2 inch wasn't too much for me. It put the seat in the perfect position (for me) on the lowest "setting". Before this, the seat adjustment never made much sense to me, as you raise the seat, it pushes you forward as well. Before you know it, you're like the little old granny on top of the wheel. With the seat 2" higher, the seat adjustment works a lot better, only needing the first two "clicks" to get comfortable. It's well worth the time and money to do this as it's easy to reverse if you don't like it.

[KevinRollin]

On 4/13/2020 at 11:26 AM, B0NE said:

@KevinRollin 

Got to say thank you for doing the legwork on this mod. I used the 2" lifts, and what a big difference. Prior to this mod, I always felt that the seats were too low, had a great view of the sky though! No problems with view of the instrument cluster once I adjusted the wheel. This improved my comfort, view of the road, and the added storage room is awesome. No more stuffing my hiking boots under the seat, they fit right under no problem. I also did the passenger seat since it was so easy. Now I can fit the coleman stove under there when not actively using. It also makes it a lot easier to vacuum/wipe out. No more impossible to get to spots under there. Awesome, thanks again, made it easy.

 

Just an fyi for others, I'm six foot and the 2 inch wasn't too much for me. It put the seat in the perfect position (for me) on the lowest "setting". Before this, the seat adjustment never made much sense to me, as you raise the seat, it pushes you forward as well. Before you know it, you're like the little old granny on top of the wheel. With the seat 2" higher, the seat adjustment works a lot better, only needing the first two "clicks" to get comfortable. It's well worth the time and money to do this as it's easy to reverse if you don't like it.

Glad it worked out for you!  My seat doesn’t adjust up/down at all, so 2” worked for me.  If I had the height-adjustable version, 1.25” might be the way to go, but you’re right about the adjustable seats coming forward as they go up - I saw that in other trims that I test drove.  

[MLB]

Really happy with this. One of the best, easiest and cheapest things to get a really nice improvement to your ride.  With the 2" blocks there's still well over a foot between the roof and the top of my head (5'10") and I'm in the lower 1/2 of the seat height adjustment where I was close to the top before.  Much nicer and more comfortable.  I don't feel like I'm sitting in a convertible Camaro (you want to feel like you're in a tub!) anymore!

[connectvanplans]

Also wanted to say thanks for the write-up Kevin! Went with the 1.25" tall zoneblocks, and they made a noticeable improvement in ergonomics. Increased storage under the seats was welcome too.



Total cost of mod was $50 for both seats.

[MLB]

On 2/11/2020 at 3:23 PM, Double Nickels said:

Then there's the problem of your knees hitting the steering wheel.

 

Nope. Non issue.  Can now retrieve items that fall down between the seat and console AND easily vacuum under the seat.  lot of storage there now too. 

It doesn't raise the seat height any higher than the adjuster does. It just lets you back it down the seat height adjuster range a bunch.
 It's such a cheap and easy (10 minutes)  no brainer I got them for the passenger seat. That is rarely used.  LOL

Edited December 26, 2020 by MLB

[electriccrowbar]

On 4/14/2020 at 11:51 AM, KevinRollin said:

but you’re right about the adjustable seats coming forward as they go up - I saw that in other trims that I test drove.  

 

Do you recall if the power seat versions did this as well ? I'm contemplating a swap from the 6 way manual seats. Normally i would just stop by a dealer and test drive a few, but the rona and all...

[JonnyBoy]

On 6/25/2019 at 9:24 AM, marinesurveyor said:

I have been recently struggling with a bulged disc in my lower back, and I spend a fair amount of time driving - a bad combination. I have the seat as far back as it can go, and as high as I can lift it. I still feel too bent. If I could go back further, or lift the seat higher, I think it would help extend my legs more.

 

Has anyone modified their seat? Put in spacers to lift it? Or can it be adjusted further back? Or replaced the seat entirely with an aftermarket seat? If so, which brand did you use?

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Hey MarineSurveyor!  Have you heard of ExtendMySeat.com?  Check them out.  I know they're currently developing Seat Brackets for 2nd gen Connect, which move it backwards and upwards.  Should be great for giving more room.

[Joey]

To anyone who has done the seat lift mod, What do you do about your knee hitting the key? In the stock position my knee is already about 1.5 in away from the key. I'm assuming the key has a transponder so getting a key made with a lower profile is not an option.

[beatnik]

Hi guys, thanks for this mod and topic. Wanted to share the pics from my fabrication of 2" seat risers.  I am vertically challenged 5'5" and this has really improved the driving experience for the XLT version.  I used a cut off saw,  drill press and some black paint. I suggest sticking with  steel square tube for the usage as a safety measure.  The front two seat posts use two pins and the back two are about one inch single hole.  Use thread lock.  I could not be happier with this mod. Thanks for sharing.