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Don Ridley

Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

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I am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster on my 2016 TC XLT. Most 2014-2017 TCs have a monochrome center display between the speedo and tach. Titanium trim vehicles usually have a larger, color LCD display. I thought I could use color LCD  Focus cluster and had limited success. The cluster worked, but it did not fit exactly. The bezels around the speedo and tach on the TC are very deep and this makes the Focus and Escape cluster incompatible. Too bad because these clusters are readily available at salvage yards for about $50.

 

Attached are photos of my Focus experiment and an actual 2016 Titanium trim TC cluster (from a vehicle on Autotrader).

 

So, I need to find a used cluster from a 2016 TC Titanium. I will work the internet and salvage company sites. If anyone has a lead on this very rare part, please let me know. Buying it from a dealer is not an option because it costs around $450 with a $300 core charge (another case where Ford does not want you to upgrade your vehicle).

 

I think the part number I am looking for is FT1Z-10849-F.

 

Plus, I am not 100% sure I can get the configuration file (IPC As Built) to work properly so I don't want to spend a fortune on something that won't work.

 

 

IMG_20190413_144412758_HDR.jpg

2016 IPC photo 3.jpg

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I have a 2015 non-Titanium with the larger instrument-cluster display that you mention.  I believe that it is always present on any TC with the larger available center-console display (I forget the exact dimension)... and I seem to recall from my search days that the larger display goes along with the Nav option.    At any rate, there are definitely XLTs out there that have the display you're seeking, so I would say don't confine your search to just Titaniums.

 

I was happy to find my XLT with the Nav option, because although I seldom use the nav (I use my phone), I really prefer the look of the larger embedded instrument-cluster display.  Call me a sucker for a pretty face I guess...

 

P.S. how hard is it to pop the instrument cluster out... and do you think there is any possibility to jury-rig it to tilt further upward?  I can't see the top of the tach or speedo from my preferred driving height...

 

 

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Thanks. That's great info. Sync3 seems to be the key option.

 

Removing the cluster is very easy. Pop the bottom trim piece by pulling straight toward you. There are tabs on each side going into the dash. Remove the top cover also by pulling (and slight wiggle) straight toward you. 2 tabs in the back by the windshield and 2 in front on the cluster. (4) t15 torx screws hold the cluster.

 

Looking at the cluster dimensions and doing some math, you will probably need to raise the top of the cluster 5mm. This will also raise the cover. Maybe you can shim the 4 anchor points enough. You may have to mess with the clips going into the cluster if the angle changes too much. But the cover won't be flush with the dash.

 

I need to ask a big favor....can you get the part number ( FT1T- xxxx) off the back of your cluster? This is key for my search. 

 

Tab slots on top are for the top cover. 

IMG_20190413_152416649.jpg

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For 2016 and earlier it would be the MyTouch system instead of the Sync3 system.  I have it on my 2016.

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Eddy,

I figured out the part number and found a cluster in North Carolina. It will be here next week.

 

FYI the PN is FT1T-10849-Ux where x=A to F. The "U" suffix designates the color LCD display. The monochrome displays have the same PN with a non-U suffix.

 

 

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Success!

The new cluster works perfectly. I used the configuration that was in the new cluster and changed one register to match my old cluster:

 

720-03-01 2B01 xxxx xxxx changd to 2901 xxxx xxxx

This register may be related to navigation, which I don't have.

 

Overall this swap was very easy once I found the used cluster. It cost $90 to update the odometer http://odo-pro.com/index.html

 

 

IMG_20190505_083243737.jpg

IMG_20190505_083257891.jpg

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22497?? Are you a church & grocery driver? lol. My 2015 will be 4 years old (for me) in June and it's already going to roll 100K this week or possibly next week. If I was still living in Illinois with my old 100-mile commute, it'd likely be over 160K already. 

 

That's awesome that you got the dash changed out & working. I'd like to eventually do that on mine. 

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Jrm223, 

 

Have you changed your automatic transmission fluid yet?  

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10 hours ago, jrm223 said:

22497?? Are you a church & grocery driver? lol. My 2015 will be 4 years old (for me) in June and it's already going to roll 100K this week or possibly next week. If I was still living in Illinois with my old 100-mile commute, it'd likely be over 160K already. 

 

I have 26,710 on my '14  -  I don't drive it every day, usually not every week for that matter and sometimes it sits for a couple months between uses.  I only drive it when I need a van or when I need something with a trailer hitch.  Since we bought it, we're averaging less than 5,000 miles per year and 90% or more of those are freeway miles.  We have more practical vehicles for daily commutes and around town use

 

Sure wish I had the knowledge and skills to upgrade my dash like Don has done  -  I almost never look at the speedo when driving this thing, so I'm using that tiny screen to see how fast I'm going almost all the time and something bigger would be a huge plus

 

 

Don

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Nice upgrade!

 

Curious how you get the speed to show up? Mine will only show average speed. Sorry if this has been discussed elsewhere but I couldn’t find anything. 

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I think the digital speedometer was deleted with a warranty upgrade/repair to the programming in the body control module on 2014s. There is a post regarding this.

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My 2014 still has digital speed available on the tiny screen  -  Thank goodness, as that's about all I look at

 

Don

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On 5/6/2019 at 10:34 AM, Fifty150 said:

Jrm223, 

 

Have you changed your automatic transmission fluid yet?  

 

I haven't, no. I need to bring it into Ford for a right-front strut and I figure I may as well have them do the 100K maintenance while it's in there. Normally, I do my own work, but this is still covered under extended warranty, so it should only cost me $100.

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22 hours ago, Beta Don said:

 

I have 26,710 on my '14  -  I don't drive it every day, usually not every week for that matter and sometimes it sits for a couple months between uses.  I only drive it when I need a van or when I need something with a trailer hitch.  Since we bought it, we're averaging less than 5,000 miles per year and 90% or more of those are freeway miles.  We have more practical vehicles for daily commutes and around town use

 

Sure wish I had the knowledge and skills to upgrade my dash like Don has done  -  I almost never look at the speedo when driving this thing, so I'm using that tiny screen to see how fast I'm going almost all the time and something bigger would be a huge plus

 

 

Don

Don,

This upgrade is likely a plug and play on your TC. Mechanically, it is 4 screws and an electrical connector.

If you want to try it, I can look at your existing IPC configuration and see if you need to make any changes. You would only need the Forscan app on a smartphone and the elm327 adapter to reset DTCs (if any). I am sure I could have simply installed the new cluster and everything would have worked and the only issue would have been the odometer.

 

This was one of the best mods I have done.

Don D

Edited by Don Ridley
Typo

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@Don Ridley - nice job with this upgrade. Your persistence paid off.

Like Beta Don, I too primarily use the digital speed reading and would consider this upgrade.

Could you please provide a total cost and any other notes now that your project is complete, like where you sourced the cluster from. Thanks.
I finally ordered an elm327 adapter this week and plan to download Forscan on my laptop after I get it. Looking forward to checking that out.

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IPC cost $75-$150.

Odometer programming $90 + shipping(return shipping included in the $90).

 

Use PN FT1T-10849-Ux. The U designates the color display. Any lower letter is the standard led display. Search the internet. These are rare but not expensive. Look for salvaged titanium trim Transit Connects. Try to confirm the cluster via photos. Get the VIN from the donor vehicle. Use this to look up the configuration (but I found all the Ti trims had the same configuration) and for record keeping. Use multiple search engines and variations of the part number.

 

There are at least a couple more units out there. I deleted the URLs from my searches or I would share it. They were about $130.

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5 hours ago, jrm223 said:

 

I haven't, no. I need to bring it into Ford for a right-front strut and I figure I may as well have them do the 100K maintenance while it's in there. Normally, I do my own work, but this is still covered under extended warranty, so it should only cost me $100.

 

 

In every group, there are people who "over maintain".  Apparently, with some Transit Connect owners, we are paranoid of transmission failure.  There you are @ 100,000 miles, and your transmission is just fine with the factory fill.  Maybe now somebody will scratch their head, and wonder if they really do need to spend $20 for their next drain & fill.  May not be necessary.

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14 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

 

 

In every group, there are people who "over maintain".  Apparently, with some Transit Connect owners, we are paranoid of transmission failure.  There you are @ 100,000 miles, and your transmission is just fine with the factory fill.  Maybe now somebody will scratch their head, and wonder if they really do need to spend $20 for their next drain & fill.  May not be necessary.

 

I was just reading through the service schedule earlier today and it said 150K miles for ATF under 'normal' driving conditions. But if you have lots of trailer towing, gravel roads, excessive idling or a car-top carrier, then they recommend only 30K miles before changing the ATF. The town I moved to 2 years ago is gravel roads except the two main ones, but I'm only 1.5 blocks from the main road, so going "in between" the 30K & 150K is probably good. I used to do a lot of highway miles before moving to Texas, so my brake pads are original, too. When I checked them last summer (probably 80-85K), they still looked basically new and very thick.

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I performed a triple drain and fill @ 25,000 miles.  I will probably do it again every 25,000 miles.  I also plan on the spark plugs and COPs at 50,000 miles.  Maybe drain and fill the coolant also.  I'm guilty of over-maintenance.  

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On 5/7/2019 at 8:16 PM, Don Ridley said:

IPC cost $75-$150.

Odometer programming $90 + shipping(return shipping included in the $90).

 

Use PN FT1T-10849-Ux. The U designates the color display. Any lower letter is the standard led display. Search the internet. These are rare but not expensive. Look for salvaged titanium trim Transit Connects. Try to confirm the cluster via photos. Get the VIN from the donor vehicle. Use this to look up the configuration (but I found all the Ti trims had the same configuration) and for record keeping. Use multiple search engines and variations of the part number.

 

There are at least a couple more units out there. I deleted the URLs from my searches or I would share it. They were about $130.

 

This looks promising

https://allusedparts.com/ford/transit_connect/2016/speedometer/

I would request photos.

 

 

Thanks for the additional info Don. Very helpful.

 

When I check out the link you provided as a source, for 2016 I see the FT1T-10849-UH  option. When I changed the search to 2015 (my van year) and select Speedometer, the beginning part number changes to DT1T-10849-UA thru UF. It's a DT rather than an FT. You would think a 2016 cluster would work in a 2015. Wonder what the difference in part number prefix means.

 

If you compare your old cluster to the new one, are there any other differences other than the larger color LCD in the middle?

In the LCD area on mine, there's not much margin area at the top but the left, right and bottom sides appear to have some blank space.

 

Curious about the odometer reprogramming service. How do they verify what your original mileage is so that you're not just trying to lower the vehicle mileage for nefarious reasons?

 

      

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The 2014-2016 clusters should be interchangeable. The prefix may identify the firmware in the unit or maybe just the model year. This part number strategy is similar for all parts. I saw the same pattern on the head units (acm). I am 90% sure a 2016 cluster will work on your 2015. There were no significant changes in those model years. But, use a 2015 if you can find one.

 

The new cluster is identical except for the LCD display and silver painted trim around the gauges.

 

The odometer company requires a signed statement that you are not changing for financial gain. It is easier for a crooked seller to buy a base model cluster and replace the existing one if they want to cheat.

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@Don R - thanks for the added info. I'm a little averse to changing something that's working but it sure seems like a nice upgrade.

 

 

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