ImTom Posted November 15, 2018 Share Posted November 15, 2018 I’m trying to remove my factory installed hitch... I’ve removed all bolts, see no spot welds... it’s as if it’s stuck on with super glue or something. What am I missing ??? Class II hitch on a LWB Titaniam model. Do I have to remove the rear bumper ? I don’t see anything connecting the hitch and bumper. Appreciate any feedback thx, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windguy Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 (edited) ImTom - might as well welcome you to the forum since you're a newcomer. I have a factory installed hitch on my 2015 XLT Cargo. I pursued have the receive part of the hitch redone because it sticks out too far, but the local hitch shops wouldn't touch it. They would make their own hitch to replace it though, but that would be too expensive. Why do you want to remove yours? As I recall, when you get a factory hitch, Ford replaces the regular metal bumper frame with the hitch frame, which sits behind the bumper cover. If you get rid of the hitch, then you essentially have no support back there or tow point if needed. As you mentioned, I think there are only four bolts on each side attaching the hitch frame to the chassis. See pics I took a few years ago. You would think it would just drop after what you did to remove. Edited November 16, 2018 by windguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidparker Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 If you search a little bit on the forum, another member has installed a factory hitch after the fact. If I remember correctly, there are two "wings"that insert into the frame that have bolts locking them in that are further in the frame. In fact, I believe you have to remove the cover from the bumper to slide the hitch out. Windguy is correct, if you remove the hitch, there is nothing that keeps the cover collapsing and causing serious damage if you get "rear ended". So, bottom line ImTom, its a project to remove the factory hitch... Sorry dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 Like Windguy I am wondering the reason for the hitch removal? If you just don't like the receiver under the bumper. then it would be easy to find some one with a Plasma Cutter and in about 10 minutes it could be edited from the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 Thanks to all that replied... windguy, your photos are exactly what my hitch is like. I have a hitch mounted mobility scooter lift. I am not comfortable with the up & down bobbing” motion when driving down the road. I fear this constant twisting motion could cause the hitch to fracture. Not wanting to ever experience that possibility I planned to drop the hitch and weld it better where it is only spot welded. Additionally it may give me an opportunity to “beef” the hitch up somewhat before replacing it. Of course this is all predicated on figuring out why it won’t budge at this point... thx, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windguy Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) @ImTom - okay, I understand your reason now. To me, the hitch seems pretty heavy duty and I'm sure Ford tested it for it rating, but you have first hand experience with it for your application. Seems like a hitch shop could custom make you a beefier hitch. That's the path I would first consider since I have no welding experience and would want to lessen my liability. I added two more pics in case others are wondering what this looks like. I guess you're back to how to get that hitch off after the mounting nuts are removed. Edited November 17, 2018 by windguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Max tongue weight is 200 lbs. I am sure that the combined weight of the lift and scooter is pushing the limit, if not exceeding. Consider also that all the weight is increased by leverage since the weight is sticking out by about 24 - 30 inches. 2 bicycles on a sturdy rack could push the 200 pound limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Looking at Windguys hitch pictures the scooter Lift would really torque the hitch tube. I bought my TC off the Lot so it did not have a factory hitch. The aftermarket Hitch has a more conventional loading to it might handle the scooter lift better. What is the weight of the Scooter and the Lift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Curt has an aftermarket tow hitch rated for 525 pounds of tongue weight, and 4000 pounds towing. Problem now is that your warranty may not be honored. Ford can always say that you added an aftermarket part, which you used to exceed capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 Lift platform is 143 lbs and scooter 109 lbs, so I am 52 lbs heavier. I am more concerned with the leverage factor as Fifty150 pointed out than being over by 52 lbs. Once we get it off, (so far a big “IF”) we’ll be able to look at some ways to improve on this design ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 One possibility would be to put the aftermarket hitch on and Connect it to the factory structure. All of which could be done without removing the factory assembly, and would leave the stock appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhotoAl Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Ive seen some of those mobility scooters going down the road and really twisting on the hitch. My first thought is wow that a heavy platform, could you get an aluminum one? Second thought is to make sure the mass is centered over the hitch with not more on one side or the other. Ive looked at hitch mount rails for my scooters (2 wheeled variety) but wound up putting them in the van. Have you thought about putting it inside? I have a LWB Titanium and regularly run without one or both of the rear seats for the additional storage space. For my scooter I use an aluminum ramp that fold in half. They make wide version as well. Of course inside the van opens up the problems of tying it down so it doesn't become a flying object in an accident. I like the factory hitch but haven't used it but a couple of times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 10 minutes ago, PhotoAl said: make sure the mass is centered over the hitch with not more on one side or the other. inside the van opens up the problems of tying it down so it doesn't become a flying object in an accident. I like the factory hitch but haven't used it but a couple of times. Nothing will center evenly over the top of the hitch receiver. Unless, of course, you remove the door, and find a way to balance half of the load inside of the van. Inside of the van, there are a few attachment points for tying down with ratchet straps. I would use ratchet straps. Don't think about bungee cords, rope, or chains. But the real problem with that is that a disabled person would have to load the scooter into the van, and without help. If you do have help, and someone goes places with you, then that is a different story. But some disabled people are more independent, and do not have assistants. I'm still surprised that the OEM hitch receiver has a tongue weight of only 200 pounds. I weigh more than that. Hitch receiver steps are very popular. I guess it's still good enough for a bike on a rack. As I think about it........if you have a roof rack, you could attach a couple of ratchet straps to the roof racks cross bars, and the outer corners of the lift platform. That would redistribute some of the load. But a disabled person may not be able to do that by himself either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 If the after market hitch structure were mechanically attached to the factory hitch it would definitely handle the load. The only question would the weight cause a drive-ability issue . You would want to add a anti rattle to control the hitch slop . jrm223 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhotoAl Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 15 hours ago, Fifty150 said: Nothing will center evenly over the top of the hitch receiver. Unless, of course, you remove the door, and find a way to balance half of the load inside of the van. I was thinking of left to right side balancing on the hitch, not front to back. Every now and then I'll see a hitch platform with much more weight on one side with the platform drooping a lot on the heavy side. Every time the vehicle hits a bump it will trust the hitch. Saw one this summer that was almost on the ground on one side - and the van (not a TC) was obviously overloaded as it was sagging a lot in the rear. IMO, and I'm not a mechanical engineer, the hitch is stronger than what it is rated for. Seems like the tongue weight and towing weights are driven more by gross vehicle weights of the van than the hitch structure itself. Aftermarket hitches are rated for much more and look to be about the same build as the factory hitch. If the van were relatively empty I would expect it to be able to tow more and have a higher tongue weight capacity. However since I'm still under warranty I'll be keeping my limits within the Ford specs. Other day I was looking at a motorcycle hitch that basically clamps and holds the rear wheel at the hitch. I was thinking that would be very nice for my motorcycle except that it has a total weight of 470 pounds with 60% on the front wheel. Including hitch weight would be very close to the hitch tongue weight of 200 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 The right left twist is less of an issue than the bending action front to back. The Hitch on your TC will most certainly handle the twist, Box tubing is very strong in that direction. The trailer weight and tongue weight are definitely determined by the load rating, braking capacity and handling traits of the TC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 The best and worst solution is to find the smallest trailer available. Load the scooter onto a trailer, strap it down, and tow it. You will be well under the tow limit. Difficult for a disabled person to do alone. And now you have to tow, which changes the driving experience. You will never find disabled parking to accommodate the length of the van and trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhotoAl Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 I have an old Holzclaw dirt bike trailer. The came with two or three rails the pivoted in the middle. With a rail pivoted to the ground you would roll the bike on the trailer and the rail would pivot flat as the weight became biased towards the front. The rail was then fastened on the front with a bolt or pin. Something like that but with a wider platform instead of a rail would be ideal. The trailers are very light with less than 1,000 pounds capacity. They have coil springs with shock absorbers, something of a rarity in the small utility trailer world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 On 11/17/2018 at 8:53 AM, ImTom said: Lift platform is 143 lbs and scooter 109 lbs, so I am 52 lbs heavier. I am more concerned with the leverage factor as Fifty150 pointed out than being over by 52 lbs. Once we get it off, (so far a big “IF”) we’ll be able to look at some ways to improve on this design ? Ah ha... found it... the hitch has two reinforced arms that slide into the frame and are secured (bolted) from the bottom of the frame into the arms. You don’t realize the arms are there because they are inside the frame and the hitch plates on each side cover the entry openings where the arms slide into the frame. So, got it off now and will forward some pic’s of reinforcement efforts later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 The 1st thing we did was weld full beads wherever the hitch was spot welded... 2nd we welded one-inch square tube diagonally from each side of the receiver up to the horizontal main bar. The idea was to distribute the tongue weight across a wider span. Additional 1/4 inch plate stock was cut for both sides & edge welded completely around to tie everything together as a single unit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 Sold my 325 lb mobility scooter and waiting for a new one to arrive. I have a couple ideas to reduce the amount of up/down motion. When it arrives I’ll put it on the lift & post pic’s for any ideas, or suggestions anyone has to offer. Great conversations going on so far... great site ! Thanks to all... Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImTom Posted November 20, 2018 Author Share Posted November 20, 2018 On 11/18/2018 at 9:33 AM, G B L said: If the after market hitch structure were mechanically attached to the factory hitch it would definitely handle the load. The only question would the weight cause a drive-ability issue . You would want to add a anti rattle to control the hitch slop . I really like this idea... where did you find this ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 I bought these from E-trailer, under $15:00 Nice job on the hitch! Looking forward to the scooter on the TC picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrm223 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Well, I see you did finally get the hitch off. But, I'll still post this pic from the other thread that someone mentioned (where a guy added the Ford hitch to his non-equipped TC wagon), just in case anybody else needs to remove the factory hitch for any reason in the future. Underneath the van, directly ahead of the rear bolts, will be one of these on each side. This is the same hole that the Curt and other aftermarket hitches use to fish-wire bolts for the forward mount points (the empty hole in pic). For those who mentioned running the Ford & aftermarket hitch to strengthen a hitch platform, the Ford one would need to be removed so the aftermarket can be installed, then put the Ford one back into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgordon Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 If anyone happens to see this thread. I'm in the same exact spot, trying to remove my stock hitch so I can install a class 3 one. Where I'm stuck is trying to remove the rear bumper to get it out of the way of the hitch. I'm always worried about breaking the plastic bits that hold those on. And I'm not even sure I've found the right ones! Could anyone post some hints for getting the rear bumper off? I did find the 6 torx bolts inside the hatch. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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