PhotoAl

Hummmm, that is good you replace the entire lens unit. I'm thinking wiring or connector problem between the bulb and the control module. My first step would be to check connections at the module. Not sure where it's located but could check continuity from the connector at the control module. My logic is that since it looks like a bulb out, then it is probably a connection. Could be a problem inside the module but think that is less probable. Keep us posted, I'm curious as to the problem. Check to make sure the bulb is connected on both sides. Is the return path thru a ground to the chassis?

Love the From, they are a fun bike, I keep trying to come up with a reason to buy one but haven't yet. As for the TC, when you say the body is perfect and the interior is good, i'd be looking at a used motor. If it's running OK at the moment keep on going but talk to folks you know and be on the lookout for a motor and a reputable shop to install it. IMO the hardest part of getting a vehicle repaired is finding someone I trust to do the work. Was talking to someone about how common the Japanese 4 cylinder motorcycle engines (Honda CBR600RR etc) are and how easy it is to get parts and have work done on then. They countered with yes and "there are lots of folks who think they know how to work on them".

My guess is the microswitch in the door lock mechanism is bad or out of adjustment. It has happened on some of the VW's I've had but they don't have the buzzing. Autolock and stuff like that quits working. For that some folks have figured out what microswitch to replace it with and have replaced just that instead of the whole mechanism ($$$$).

Could be the bulb holder has some corrosion if the lens was cracked and moisture got in. Had that problem with a tail light on one of the kids cars. If that's the case I've had success with scraping the contact points on the connector to make sure they are clean. Once it's working use dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent future corrosion. At lease one cracked tail light was due to a boyfriend (now son-in-law) running a shopping cart into a taillight.

Agree with you Mike. When I bought my Volt decided to just go with the oil life monitor in the car. Has been very nice and worry free. I did change the oil on my TC at 5,200 Miles as when I bought it it was a model year old and had been sitting around a while. Only exception to the oils are the VW turbos I’ve had. 2 1.8t’s and 1 2.0 TSI, the 1.8t’s cooked almost any oil which said to me a poor design or undersized oil cooler. The 2.0 TSI has been better about cooking the oil (sludging) but at 75,000 has three separate internal engine part failures which are all design related. No engine codes thrown either. Maybe it wasn’t designed to fail but was poorly designed :-) When end I changed the oil in the TC it was so easy, the drain plug and filter were easy to reach. Removing and replacing the under panel was also much better than on the VWs. Love the way it fits into place and the screws and clips can be put back in place easily. Rhino Ramps were a big help as well.

Welcome, lots of knowledgeable folks here so ask questions. People will certainly respond.

Here is a link to a manual. I think there is an official factory manual as well. I intend on purchasing this manual after my warranty is closer to being up. https://www.factory-manuals.com/expand-ford-transit-connect-2013-2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-factory-repair-manual-344.html

I have a 2016 Titanium TC with the factory towing package. My trailer has led lights from Amazon, have not had any problems at all. No bulb warnings or anything. Not sure if anything changed from 2014 to 2016 models. The led lights are straightforward and properly wired (did it myself). They do not use the trailer chassis as a ground but rather the ground wire is connected to each light.

See you are in Europe where everyone has a manual. Autos are nice and my US TC engine and auto work very well together. A couple of months ago I had a rental Ford C-Max Grand with an auto in Italy and Monaco. It was one of those with a clutch not a torque converter. It worked very well but was a bit worrisome in Monaco with the steep roads and tight turns. They don’t like to slowly creep along. Someone I know had a Fiat 500L with a similar transmission and they managed to overheat the clutch enough to cause a warning on the dash to go off and had to pull over and let it cool. If you are good with a manual and seems like most Europeans are, then I’d go with the manual. I agree the VW DSG seems like a nice transmission but the motor that’s connected to it is a different story. My experience with VW’s has lead me to believe they don’t know how to build a reliable turbo motor or they let the customers debug their designs.

WOW that is a good price. The Cosworth version was vey nice. My first car was an Alfa Romeo Gulietta Spider. Another one I should have kept but it was a rust bucket and being a poor college student I had to get something more reliable - bought a Fiat 850 Spider! McDonalds is long gone, can't remember the last time I ate there. When the kids got to about 6th grade they would go across the paring lot to Taco Bell and the little ones to McDonalds.

If it’s not leaking out on the ground it is going somewhere. Make sure you don’t have a blown head gasket. That would allow water to get into combustion chamber and then out the tail pipe. Obviously that is not good. I’m hoping that is not the case. I’m hoping you have a leak that only happens when the engine is up to temperature. Have you looked around to see if there are any signs of leaks?

If the round plug is left off, air will bypass filter

My 2016 Titanium has them and they are very nice. I went and looked, there is a sensor you should be able to see from outside the windshield. It is in the mount for the rear view mirror. Most of the mounting area is a black coating but the sensor has a clear opening about the size of a quarter. I’d be going back to the windshield company. It’s a bit confusing to me as to how they work. Haven’t read the manual - I’m an engineer! It’s like they work in what I would call the intermittent position. The nob on the wiper seems to adjust sensitivity or how frequently the wipe. If left in that position they will go from off to high speed wipe depending on how hard the rain. I’ve had them start up when going into a car wash as I forgot they were in the first or intermittent position.

Lol, had a good job and it reduced wife’s stress :-) now my daughter calls up and wants me to take her kids to lunch (4 1/2 yo twins).

WOW, hadn't seen one of those in a very long time! I had an 84 model with the biplane rear wing and the telephone dial wheels. The later ones just had the lower rear wing. For it's day it was a very quick car. I disconnected the boost control solenoid which made it even quicker. Didn't have quite the acceleration of the Mustang GT but all it took to beat one was a slow launch or bauble by the GT - can't remember how I know that. They didn't have an intercooler which was the biggest problem. Oil from the turbo would would the mass air flow sensor. Mine had that problem but I didn't know it till years after I sold it. When I sold it my youngest son begged me to get it back. Selling it was THE single dumbest car move I've made! Bought a used Mercedes 190E from a friend and that turned out to be the WORST car I've ever owned. Traded it on a '91 BMW 318iS which was the best car I've owned. We had 4 kids so couldn't all go somewhere in my car, many times my wife volunteered to stay at home while the kids and I went to McDonalds. Thanks for bringing some good memories back.

Welcome! Nice wagon, Good to get both the hitch and the roof bars. I don't leave the hitch in the receiver just so I won't bust my shin. Congrats on your parents, not many people achieve either of those.

I think they are on the upper level trip packages. Mine is a Titanium and it has something other than black plastic up there, not sure if it has lights or not. Your Ford dealer might need to just look at the parts diagrams for the lights - I just looked at the parts diagrams I have and didn't see them but the diagrams are not that good.

My first thought was to spray them with Plasti Dip, it’s matt but they have a glossifier. I think it’s possible to paint, I’m no expert, seems like the paint is the same as used for plastic bumper caps - has a flex agent or something in it.

Looks very nice.

Now this is how to jack a van :-)

Love the photo of the battery terminal! Had a BMW with a battery in the trunk. Replacement batteries had to have a vent tube to vent to the outside. Smart car battery is under passenger floor mat and it has a vent as well. Nice thing about the two vehicles I've had with batteries out of the engine compartment is how well they last. Many years ago I looked at a used Alfa Romeo Gulietta Sprint which had the battery in the trunk. The battery in that one had exploded! In those days don't think the batteries were sealed and vented to the outside.

Good to hear you probably have your issue resolved. I have learned the hard way its best to systematically check to determine the problem. Had a motorcycle that would crank so I replaced the battery, it died on the way home so I replaced the voltage regulator. Finally I looked at the stator (alternator equivalent) and it had a burned coil! Along the way learned a lot about how the electrical system on a motorcycle works.

Knew there was battery in the rear but didn't realize it was AGM. It just sits back there and works. Love the progress on the van, learning lots about mods. Unfortunately I don't have time to do much at the moment. I have a VW with a turbo motor - I'm done owning VW's!!!! 75,000 miles and major engine problems. Working on it makes me appreciate the underwood space in the TC. It's not perfect and the trans fluid change is a hassle but nothing like the wonderfulness designed by VW.

Welcome! Good to hear, intermittent electrical problems can be very difficult to troubleshoot. Time and patience are good tools. As has been suggested the scan tool interface and Forscan program are a great way to check it out. Curious about the history of the vehicle. I have a '16 TC Titanium which I bought new in November of last year - got a great deal and drove 300 miles to get it.

I've always used full synthetic. Not particularly a fan of synthetic blends. IMO the advantage of synthetic oil is it's ability to withstand higher temperatures without breaking down. If you haven't been to the site Bob is the Oil Guy or something like that, there is some very interesting reading and lots of technical information and many opinions. The higher the temperature in the engine the better the efficiency so manufactures have tended to run them hotter which is harder on the oil. Add in turbochargers and it is even more challenging but well understood by most manufactures. In general the todays engines are remarkable trouble free. In the high performance motorcycle communities it gets very interesting. Seems like for every 10 people there are at least 15 opinions on oil or so it seems. In my motorcycle I have run lots of different oils ranging from "basic" Mobile 1 synthetic to Red Line synthetic to Motul synthetic. Currently running Castrol synthetic motorcycle racing oil and it's still running. Was playing a bit yesterday and shifted a few time at about 15,000RPM with no problems (redline is 16,000 RPM). However I currently have a VW 2.0 TSI turbo apart in the garage because of metal in the oil pan!!!! 75,000 miles and the timing chain tensioner failed! Looks like I'll get by with a new tensioner and oil pump. This is the 2nd VW turbo motor I've had catastrophically fail even though using good oil and regularly changing. The older VW turbo's were brutal on the oil and even fully synthetic Mobile 1 would sludge! Have to run the VW spec oil and then are lucky if it doesn't have an internal mechanical failure. All that to say on my TC about to change oil for the first time at 5,000 miles. Don't have a indicator up but don't want to go too long. I'll put full synthetic Castrol 5-20 in it. IMO these are well designed engines which are not hard on the engine oil and should last a very long time with regular oil changes. When the engine is cold I always let it warm a bit before driving off and am always gently with the acceleration until its warmed up.