MLB

you see them around. They look horrrible. iT's harder than it looks and getting all the air bubbles out takes practice. I guess I should clarify, it's not that hard a job, but if you've never done it before it's hard to make it look like the shops do. I paid $69 for tinting the 2 larger front windows. Sun doens't come through the smaller ones, don't need them. They wanted another $60 to do those!

https://www.vanwindowsdirect.com/collections/ford-transit-connect-14-18/products/ama-passenger-side-sliding-door-solid-glass-window-ford-transit-connect-van-lwb-2014-2020 A bit tempted by the 1/2 opening option. But I'm not sure I want or need an opening window there. Mostly a work van for me. ALso $150 more and back ordered. So easy decision. Got the trim and urethane and cutting wire from them. Pick up a suction clamp thingee from Harbor Freight to hold the window for install. ($10) Watched a few vids, pretty straight forward. Just taking the time to do it right. "cut once....." - Yikes! LOL

You definitely need the spring properly seated.

worth a shot. How much of it did you use?

adding a couple of colors?

Uh huh.. I sold cars for 20 years and was sales manager at a Ziebart (rust proofing). Calling BS on anyone from any factory paying a penetration warranty on surface rust of any kind. Including very heavy. It's their OUT. Everyone in the world understands that bare metal rusts. (well most)

"Maxair" sounds like that might not be the standard size.

lol, what exactly do you think that little it of surface rust is going to penetrate in 2 years?

I find the seats much more comfortable aftering raising them a couple of inches. Changes the leg angle and then the height adjustment can make a nice difference without having your chest in the steering wheel. Search for 2" seat raise, 10 minute job. VERY happy. While the seat was unbolted I also figured out I'd only been using 1/2 the range of lumber support. That lever moves a wide arc! Between the 2 I'm very much more comfortable.

Gotcha!

You guys are high if you think you're going to make a warranty claim for surface rust on a 5 y/o van! ;0)

I think it only takes a little hole in the roof.

They are "cheese dick" (cheap) little pieces of plastic. Wouldn't knock yourself out to get them. A bolt and rubber washer be a lot tighter.

Oh heck no! Add quite a bit of wind noise on the highway. Worse with the cross pieces of course, but still there without. Deer whistles are pretty tiny.

The boards barely extend past the front and rear of the van. Very little lift.

That's where I've been stuck (haven't had time to work on it since). I can thread a wire from the battery through to that front fender, but how you get through to the cab to connect to the wire was the issue. Looks like that grommet is the way to skip that problem.

Nice! I'm looking at those, trying to decide if I want the opening window or just the solid piece. "On Sale" for $230ish now, with the sliding window another $150 I think. I don't really care about it opening, just want to see backing out of a parking space. And I like the look of the solid glass best. Are you happy with the opening window? Secure? Use it? Thanks! Great job!

Honestly I think the whole effort was a bit of a waste compared to most vehicles. (always do it). it's just so damn noisy on the highway (van) that you have to have the stereo blasting loud to drown it out. And my ears tire of that in an hour or so. For me the time delay (rear to front) is too long to sound good with the rears cranked up to hear them. And I lose a lot of treble over emphasizing rears. I don't have separate rear amp but both sets are amped equally.

Probably depends on where you are. Maybe in the right climate conditions. Here in the midwest the only time mine was wet was something spilling and ending up under there. I just pull mine up every 6 months or so and check. But other than once, no moisture.

I have nice speakers front and rear and imo the rears are a bit of a waste. Little bit of fill. And they get rattled around a lot back there so. Put nice speakers (sep woofs and tweeters) up front and a small power sub under the seat and you'll be amazed at the improvement.

thank you!

thanks guys, cold works a charm.

Pretty sure this was the way it was at first, but no longer.

The worry would be the weight on the extended piece while driving. Dont' think the extra tongue weight is going to matter a whit when the car is stopped and you're using it. On extended back from the hitch weight, the recommendation is halving the max tongue weight. I used a hitch hauler with a heavy 4 stroke dirt bike ((300lbs) on a VW Touareg with 750lb tongue weight max. It handled it flawlessly, but you could see their was a load on it. Tongue weight drops the rear of the vehicle a lot (relative) and can make for a very HIGH front end. But only matters driving.

I've read the other threads and I'm not seeing it. Straight forward till the drivers seat area. Unlike the other panels the one surrounding the hood release does NOT just pop off and as theres no cutout in the plastic for the release handle I can't figure out how that comes off. ???????? Frustrating.