JackGrimshaw

It's been almost 6 yrs but I seem to remember smaller,less robust tie downs in the very rear in my 2016 LWB. My plywood is held down by just 2 bolts in the tie down holes by the middle shelf. Because I wanted no breaks in the plywood,I moved the D rings and bolts to what I think are the seatbelt mounting holes on the side walls.Much easier access for ratchet straps or bungies.It helps to have a headboard to secure against.

First you need to refine your request.Are you looking for the middle seat that goes between the two front seats that was available at one time in some countries or are you looking for 2nd row seats? Second ,include your location.Why should I,in Connecticut,reply to a request from someone in the UK.The cost of shipping would be prohibitive.You may find someone in your own town who knows a salvage yard 10 miles(or km) away. Thirdly,have you done a google.A quick search for "2nd row seats 2010 TC" gave me over a dozen hits. Good luck in your search!

Honey bees are very rarely aggressive and only become defensive if you are careless. The only thing between me and the bees is the headboard, which,as seen in the above photo,is just a bit higher than the headrest so I am out of sight. I wear no protection driving other than long pants. All of my bee yards are South of me and I generally work S to N. Bees are attracted to light so most of the time they cluster on the rear windows.There has been times when I will pull over to open the doors and brush them off of the windows. Unlike the person in this picture,I ride with the window open so any stragglers up front can be tossed out.You can tell she/he is driving west because the bees are on the sunny window. (To me this is stupidity,not because of the bees on the windows,but because the hive is not secured. In the case of an accident,I would not want to be anywhere near that car.)

Odd comment from one who deletes his own posts.Whatever floats your boat. Heres a shot of my rear window after a few dozen honey bees shit on the inside of the glass after my last load of honey supers. It's a work truck. Over 1200 lbs of pure,local honey so far this year.

Like Wind guy,I also used the foam for insulation and installed a piece of angle cross ways behind the seats(using existing holes) and 2 hinged plywood doors to create a (not so) secret compartment. This created an area right behind the seat for my permenant collection of stuff and I built a plywood box in the rear for temporary hauling. The hinged plywood piece to the right serves as a head board and can be folded down for a sleeping platform

The strength of the fasteners depends on the size of the bolt,the type of fastener, the thickness of the sheet metal and the number of fasteners that you use. For a good discussion of plus nuts vs rivnuts. There is a 3rd type called wellnuts that are lower strength but removable. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-24-x-10-Brass-Brass-Well-Nut/301249 All come in various sizes and will need some investigation for your particular use.

Aren't you concerned with off gassing when charging those batteries?

I've had it happen to my 2016 numerous times.I hate it when a vehicle thinks it smarter than I am. The first few times I thought I may have bumped the buttons but now just assume a "glitch in the chip". Along with a Swiss Army knife,I carry an extra key with the battery removed because I have also locked the van by bumping my pocket. I'm just glad there is still a key hole in the drivers door,otherwise I would have to carry around a rock.

Ha ha Not much going on in the forum and we may be a little bored. And then there's the obvious observation that the hitch is on the back and the recovery eye is on the front.

Yes The eye is for recovery only!! The days of towing vehicle with a chain around a bumper bracket are long gone.

I installed a Weatherguard roof rack and rail system and these were the bolts( just under 5/16) and riv nut type threaded insert that came for rail instalation.I had to enlarge the roof holes for the insert.I used automotive silicone sealant under the insert flange and a rubber plumbing washer between the flange and bottom of the rail.No leaks Thousands of miles in the last 5 yrs with lumber,ladders and a Yakima pod with no issues

How you load the trailer is also an issue.You want 10-15% tongue weight. I regularly haul 1500 lb loads in my trailer.Pulling is no problem but increase your stopping distance by 50%.I would not travel in slippery conditions at higher speeds without trailer brakes.The trailer tends to push the ass end of the van around when braking.

Table closed and how we cook.

I made a small shelf for my rear door that folds down when not in use.2016 LWB TC Needed a cut out for wiper motor. Not really big enough for coleman type stove. I used this type of fastner(a type of expansion nut).Insert in the holes from the back and use machine screws through the plywood base. NOTE: Get the proper OD for your holes. Google: "Van door table" Select images for ideas

https://www.google.com/search?q=diesel+heater+in+transit+connect&oq=diesel+heater+in+transit&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j69i60j0i22i30l3.14320j0j9&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Help me out here 150. How and why did you get a free oil change? And what the heck(being nice here) does a $1wrench have to do with it. I think your $100 oil change is what my dealer calls "the works". This includes fluids check and top off,brake check,safety check,tire check and rotation and other items along with the oil change. This "works" for me because,being retired,I no longer have access to a shop,have a stone driveway and no garage.In the past,I had the "perimeter light issue" solved for N/C and they caught "rodent intrusion" in my cabin air filter before it became a nightmare,all while doing the service.

Don't understand.Looks like a bill for 98.05. I have the safety recall and a service scheduled for next Wed and sure would like to have the service be " no charge".

OEM rails are available from Ford dealers. When I checked for my 2016,the cost was way out of line.

Cabin air filter should be checked periodically.Many(including myself) have found evidence of mice. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/8863-solution-blower-fan-noise-dash-vibration-and-mice/

1) Your picture has no perspective. No clue where this is located.Remove the panel with the screw on the right for a better view. 2)I would call it " piece of foam wrapped around a hose" (sorry,couldn't resist a little sarcasm) Why is it there? Insulation? Protection? Go to a carpet store and ask for some scrap foam underlayment and make your own. 3) I 'm definitely not an expert but I am a bit handy. (Red Green reference)

Yes,this is great extra space. But,please use it safely. Even an AGM battery should be vented to the outside when used as a house battery.In an over charging situation,explosive gases can be released. https://rvnerds.com/2017/11/01/electrical-myths-part-4-agm-batteries-dont-need-venting/ Also,follow recommended methods for transporting propane cylinders. https://www.amerigas.com/propane-grill-tanks/transporting-propane-tanks Also,propane is heavier than air and will settle in low spots.What do you think will happen if you get a spark when working on your battery?

My post was not meant as criticism,only that the groups were not a good fit for me.

Resigned from 2 TC Facebook groups because I got sick of wading through "look at me" and "me too" posts. Very disorganized,impulse driven,no search and lack of technical info. Also seemed to be dominated by Brits with diesels,mods and strange slang.

Google is your friend! My memory wasn't the greatest............In this instance it turned out to be windshield. . To those who want to remove roof plugs........ Treat them as one time use!! I installed the mounting rails for my rack and most of those plugs broke when I tried to remove them. I used rubber washers on each bolt with silicone sealant and no leaks in 4 yrs