JackGrimshaw

At a service last month(2016 LWB),the tech noticed rodent damage to my cabin filter so I did an "exploratory" to find the rodent path.There was a previous post by another member who had the same issue. Carefully remove wiper arms(I had to buy a puller) marking shaft and location. Remove plastic piece with intake vents. Remove lower plastic piece.Cabin intake door(open) is seen on the firewall top center. Now here is where Ford has screwed up.Certain combinations of heater controls and cabin air recirculation button will leave the intake door open when key is turned off. Pictures 2 and 3,opened and closed. To be continued:

Justin,post your location and the distance you are willing to drive to get your measurement and ask for a volunteer.You are welcome to stop by and measure my TC. Also,join the Transit Connect Camper facebook group.You may find someone in the middle of a build who is willing to measure.

jdub3 Yes,I believe so.(no label but measurements seem to match)

side view

Don't know if this will help but here's a picture of my 2016 with an older yakima box. There is room to slide the box over towards the edge even more but I like to access it from the rear sometimes

Some thought should be given to placement.I know centering looks the best,but if you ever plan on purchasing a roof box like Thule or Yakima ( I have one and they're great),you will need to offset the location.

Just guessing you have right hand drive? I went out and looked at my 2016 and when I tried to pull hood latch with the door closed,the latch handle would hit the plastic door panel before the hood would pop. However,if i grabbed the handle on the side closest to the exterior,I could gently pull it diagonally enough to clear the plastic panel. Some booster packs will charge your battery through your cigarette lighter. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/15893/is-it-possible-to-charge-car-battery-through-cigar-lighter-socket

Door won't open or won't unlock?

I would try and contact seller.He has a pretty good rep and has been mentioned in a few conversions as a seller of thinsulate insulation.

You don't say what you want to install.There are some threaded holes on the side walls that I assume are mounting points for seat belts in the passenger version.I have installed D rings for load restraint in my 2016. There are also metal ribs where you could use self drilling screws for lower strength attachments.Your ply lining is attached to something.It may be best to remove plywood and inspect,depending on what your needs are.

Silicone caulk. If you change your mind it would be easy to remove. If you don't care if it's flat,use hex head metric bolts.

Do you have a number or picture?

My wife says she "hates" my 2016 LWB because the passenger seat is so uncomfortable.We both have had hip issues,she has had a hip replacement and I have had a metal rod inserted through my hip joint to repair a broken femur. We called this type of seat a " bucket seat " in the 60's.The raised sides would keep your butt from sliding around as you made fast corners in your Mustang or MG,something that's not really needed in a TC. On longer trips,the TC seat becomes uncomfortable because you are forced to sit in one position with the seat sides applying pressure on the hips.(neither of us is exceptionally wide). I have purchased memory foam bathmats from a big box store which,when folded in half,adds about 2 in (uncompressed) to the center of the seat which does help,but does not solve,the problem.

When I used to haul my sail boards,I would use 2 straps for each board on the cross bars if side by side or use 2 straps on stacked boards with a foam "wishbone" in between.You also need a stiff foam covering(think pipe insulation) on the cross bars. When strapping to roof rack systems,you want most of the force downward ,not outward,to eliminate any side to side movement.

I would go to a glass shop and get a piece of glass installed. I had that done on my 2016 last year for about $100 and it made backing out of driveways and parking spots much less challenging.

You may find the vinyl not stiff enough to overcome the soft carpet and the corners of your storage boxes will dig in.Vinyl can get"sticky" when hot. You may need a piece of 1/2 or 3/8 plywood in between. A thicker piece of plywood would also give you a secure base to build your platform. I used just plywood over my cargo mat and cut 3/4x3/8x4 ft "slides" from some scrap Trex to mount on the bottom of the boxes.They slide so well that I had to mount latches to keep them closed when I accelerate.

Assuming you have a cargo van. In my 2016 LWB, I removed the mat covering the cargo area,exposing the area where the foot well would be for 2nd row seating.(search this site for descriptions) After removing the filler pieces,you will see numerous threaded holes (aprox 5/16 or 3/8 but metric) that would be seat,seatbelt or tie down mounting points for 2nd row seats. There are threaded holes on the B pillars(partition mounting points??) but I would be extremely hesitant to put any stress on an area that could affect door operation Depending on the anticipated load,your bracket would have to incorporate multiple mounting points . The cargo mat provides a lot of noise suppression so I installed a plywood floor over the mat.

We 've been camping with a Yakima skybox(not sure what size) for years and it works great for light things like bedding,tarps and small tents. Mount the cross bars within the allowable spacing for your model box and forward enough so you can stand on the sliding door sills. Elk Neck State Park,MD Chesapeake Bay in the background

This may sound like a "too simple" solution but have you tried raising and/or spreading the aim of the low beams? When I received my 2016 TC,I found the low beams to be woefully inadequate.At my first service,I had them adjusted upwards and it made a world of difference.

On my 2016 it is called an m type fuse. Not cheap!

Instead of wrapping in tin foil,how about just removing the battery or piece of tape to cover the contact? Anybody try that.

I haul lots of crap so I removed the panels and built a plywood box for the back.It keeps the debris from wandering and provides some storage between the plywood and the outer body.As it is a cargo van,I had no fuse box to deal with but there was some thingamajig rear of the passenger sliding door that I had to box in. The handiest spots are some cubbies just inside the sliding doors for binders,bungies and often used tools.

SkiZo This is how I deal with barn doors and a tarp attached to roof rack. Modified from another members design,can't remember who.Windguy maybe?? Standard conduit fittings.For wider tarp ,I have 2 pieces of foam pipe insulation with a slit that slide on to the top of the door.

I used to drive an old International "Lo-Pro" and the drivers seat was adjustable just as you describe.There was no air bag,but a pneumatic cylinder and piston. Could be something as simple as an O ring or piston cup. I rebuilt my 30 yr old pump Crosman BB gun last winter so I can picture how the pump might work. Old bicycle pumps used to have a small hole in top so you could put in a few drops of lightweight oil to keep the leather piston cup soft and pliable. Any spot you can squirt some oil?

That is the recommended procedure per manual for changing wiper blades.Not sure what would happen if ignition key was turned on with wiper arms flipped up and I would not try it.