Fifty150

Thanks Don, ........and since I am an amatuer, I had to search online to learn what to do. This should help someone like me, who has never done it before.

Okay, so that means that I would have to remove the fuse block, add the terminal, then reinstall the fuse block. It looks like it's simple enough to remove the screws, then lift up and out.

For me, it's just a button that does nothing when I click it. Not that I have any real need for only unlocking the rear doors.

I don't think anyone at my job, myself included, is a "Ford Guy". But I do admit, there are certain Ford products that I would choose hands down, in relation to other alternatives in the marketplace. The F-150 is probably a better work truck. I would drive a Mustang, as opposed to a Challenger or Camaro. Back in the 90's when I bought my Explorer, it was probably the best choice for an SUV (think Honda Passport & S10 Blazer, both of which I owned and the Explorer outlasted & outperformed them). This Transit Connect as a passenger wagon is the only real choice compared to other City Van options in the marketplace. But I also like Toyota's Tacoma (except that for the price, you can buy a half ton truck). My personal small car is a Honda, and those just can't be beat. Now if I had money to spend, I would surely be in the luxury vehicle class, and Ford's Lincoln line is just not up to par. Who wants to pay more, to drive a Ford Fusion with a fancy emblem? And the only thing that the Fiesta is good for, is moving up from a Mitsubishi Mirage or Fiat 500. Ford, to me, at the end of the day, is a blue collar car. I'm a blue collar guy. I'm fine with that. I will hear funny noises, then have to wrench it myself. If image and label are a priority, then you will opt for something at a much higher price point for the prestige in ownership.

Alright Oregon! Sad to hear that my favorite Chinese restaurant in Portland, which sadly sold more t-shirts than food, has shuttered. Come to think of it, the food wasn't all that great, and neither were the t-shirts - they shrank! You've got to love a state with no smog checks on vehicles, and there is an attendant to pump your gas for you. In case you actually tow anything with that hitch receiver, there is a "plug & play" harness kit for the lights. Keep us up to date if you install any auxiliary lighting. From what I recall, I used to use the spotlights & fog lights on the Jeep quite a bit. Ironic that I'm now in Fog Town, and we get along just fine in The City without fog lights.

In my local area, Transit Connects are everywhere. I can't go 1 block without seeing one downtown. All in commercial use, of course, with logos painted on. Very few privately operated vehicles. Elevator repair, electricians, window installers, municipal government, telecom companies, local utilities, florists, cadaver mover, catering.....and the list goes on. Just about every industry where they could downsize from an Econoline. What you seldom see are private passenger wagons with windows. Most of my friends have shrugged their shoulders as they looked under the hood, and looked at me like I was crazy. Until I fold down the second row seats, and explain to them the advantages on using the van as a thong collector.

I'm glad that worked out for you. I would suggest actually using new parts, if there is wear. These are being sold on amazon.com. MGP Caliper Covers 10007SFRDYL Yellow Caliper Cover (Set of 4, Engraved Front and Rear: Oval logo/Ford, Yellow powder coat finish, black characters) by MGP Caliper Covers Be the first to review this item Price: $199.00 & FREE Shipping In the past, I've always tried to source drilled and slotted rotors, plus ceramic pads. Some manufacturers will sell a "kit" that is make & model specific. But of course, you can't always get high end parts, when you're not driving a high end car. A glance at the Summit Racing website shows that there are drilled and slotted rotors available.

Wow. Another tool I'll be shopping for.

It's hard to find a working combination, because as we all know, not everything works the way it is suppose to. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FZ1JS5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://smile.amazon.com/Acer-Iconia-A1-840FHD-197C-8-0-Inch-Tablet/dp/B00NGK93AE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475179788&sr=8-1&keywords=acer+iconia+8 Aomaso OBD2 II Car Scan Tool Bluetooth Wireless Scanner Auto Diagnostic Tool for Android by Aomaso 3.2 out of 5 stars 13 customer reviews Price: $17.99 Sale: $7.99 Free Shipping for Prime Members You Save: $10.00 (56%) In Stock. Acer Iconia One 8 - B1-820-16FX 8" Tablet Intel Atom Z3735G Quad-core 1.33 GHz Processor, 1 GB RAM, 16 GB, Android (Certified Refurbished) by Acer 2.9 out of 5 stars 6 customer reviews Price: $61.99 & FREE Shipping Acer Iconia Tab 8 A1-840FHD-197C 8.0-Inch Full HD Tablet by Acer 3.9 out of 5 stars 81 customer reviews | 35 answered questions Price: $155.95 Free Shipping for Prime Members

In CA, when you purchase the vehicle insurance, the insurance company notifies the Department of Motor Vehicles. Insurance companies here are online with DMV. And if you cancel your insurance, the insurance company will also notify DMV, and DMV will suspend your registration. In CA when a vehicle is purchased, the dealer provides for display, on the lower passenger side of the windshield, a Purchaser's Temporary Operating Copy. It is simply a piece of paper with the vehicle's VIN, dealer information, purchaser information, and transaction date. This is valid for 90 days. DMV is suppose to have license plates issued within that period. With my current Transit Connect, I've already received the title (pink slip) with the vehicle's license plate number printed on it, and still no physical metal license plates to affix to the vehicle. I had an Econoline that I drove for 7 months without plates arriving. Then a small town cop pulled me over, ran the VIN, and the VIN came back "not on file". The VIN did not even exist in the DMV's database; as if the van was not real. As I was speaking to the cop, I asked him why he pulled me over, and if there was an observed moving violation or noticeable safety violation since it was a new van. When he said that he simply wanted to check out a van with paper plates, I responded that it was a new model year vehicle, which is commonly sold, and all are sold without license plates in California; inasmuch as that he had no probable cause to effect a vehicle stop, delay my travel, detain me further, or further violate my civil rights. Furthermore, he was simply on a fishing expedition, and was now attempting to take a bite of fruit from the poisoned tree. You can't pull people over just because you don't like the way that they look, or you feel that they don't fit in with the community that you are policing. Guy in a creepy van look out of place? Out of place how? Perhaps he was the wrong race, and you cannot specifically articulate that into your incident report or probable clause declaration? Wonder what he is up to? Follow him. Watch him. Wait until he actually does something illegal before you pull him over. Until such time as you observe a violation, or have reasonable suspicion to believe that there was a violation just occurred and a reasonable person would believe that this person was responsible; you've got nothing except a bad feeling about a guy driving by in a creepy van. ALL vans are creepy. A new van with paper dealer plates? All new vans are sold with paper dealer plates, and a lot of vans are sold. In short, this cop had to let me ride off into the sunset because I convinced him that his career was in jeopardy since I knew as much about his job as he did. A year went by, and I finally went to the local Highway Patrol office to see a guy that I knew down there. He laughed when I told him the story. Then got serious and said that he would look into the matter, to see what the problem was. Since the VIN did not exist at all, it was not a stolen vehicle. For whatever reason, the VIN never got into the DMV database, and with bureaucracy in the government offices, it simply got lost. So I had to get my van weighed, get a smog check, and have the VIN verified......and then wait all over again for the plates which finally showed up a few weeks later.

When I get a chance to get my Transit Connect up in the air, I will have to take a good look around. Dealerships have a machine that connects to the cooling and return line on the transmission. As the engine is running, the old fluid comes out of the cooling line, and new fluid goes in via the return line from the cooler. In the old days, we would simply disconnect the cooling line, and allow the fluid to pump into a 5 gallon bucket. Then add fluid in via the fill plug located on the transmission case or a funnel in the dipstick hole. This home-brew process has worked on just about every car I've tried it on. Simple, right? Turn engine on, a few quarts comes out, turn engine off, add a few quarts. Then repeat until you start seeing clean fluid come out the cooling line. Reconnect the cooling line. Check fill level, top off as needed. My trusty Haynes Manual always came in handy when it came to figuring out which hose was the cooling line, and which hose was the return. And on other Fords I've worked on, you needed special tools for things like transmission lines and fuel lines. It would be a good idea to pick up a set, if this van has a fuel filter and you need to change it also. Does this van have an inline fuel filter along the driver side frame rail? The only problem with special purpose tools is that you then get stuck with something that you'll probably never use again. Like my Ford Fan Clutch Removal Tool. Just used it once to install an electric fan into my Explorer, and now it sits there. Of course, $20 was well spent considering how I messed around with a couple of wrenches all day, and then this tool allowed me to do what I wanted in 2 minutes. I doubt if I'll ever remove the fan from another Explorer. Won't be able to do the same with this Transit Connect, since it already has an electric fan. Just like the SCT LiveWire that I used on the Explorer, that I can't use on this Transit Connect. Who is writing custom tunes for Transit Connect?

You were right. I just clicked on one also. It's better to have that tool in your arsenal, than to improvise and possibly damage something.

You like the swamp coolers over air conditioning? Why? Just based on my own experience, swamp coolers were not as comfortable. We had them on the roof of a trailer that we stayed in when I went hunting.

It looks like there is a WiFi camera that will transmit the image to your phone. The installation looks simple. Camera connects to transmitter, which is then connected to reverse lamp wires to power on when you are in reverse. With phone mounted on dashboard, image will appear on phone screen.

https://www.yahoo.com/news/blogs/motoramic/fight-repairs-car-warranty-ends-150806354.html How to fight for repairs after your car’s warranty ends Contributor May 14, 2013 Most everyone has heard these words, “I’m sorry but you’ll have to pay for this repair because your car is out of the manufacturer’s warranty." What should you do say or do? Obviously, we’re not talking about cars that are “way out” of warranty. A 10-year old vehicle with 200,000 miles that had a three year or 36,000-mile warranty will not be repaired free by your dealer or manufacturer. However, for cars those that are “close” to being within the warranty time and mileage, there is a good chance that you can persuade the dealer/manufacturer to pay at least a portion of the cost of repair. This article is designed to tell you how best to accomplish this. The easiest way to have your car repaired at no cost is if you initially brought the vehicle in for a problem while it was still under warranty, the dealer “attempted” to fix it, but did not. When the problem resurfaces, as long as you have in writing and on the record that this happened, you should have no problem getting your car repaired at no charge. To the lesser degree that your car is out of warranty, the greater is your chance that the factory authorizes a “goodwill” repair. Goodwill is what they call all repairs made at no charge when the car is out of warranty. If your car is only five miles out of warranty, this should be very easy to have approved. The further out of warranty, the more difficult this is, and the less likely that you will have 100 percent of the cost paid by the manufacturer. For example, a car that’s 3,000 miles out of a 36,000 mile warranty may be granted just 50 percent of the cost of the repair under goodwill. It’s important to understand that the dealer often has no say in whether an out of warranty car can be repaired under goodwill. A good dealer should support your request for goodwill because he gets paid by the manufacturer for doing the repair and this makes his customer happy. A bad dealer might not support your goodwill request because he would like to charge you more for the repair than the warranty will allow. A dealer can charge you anything he wants for parts and labor, but the factory allows him only his approved warranty labor rate, markup on parts, and time to complete the repair. If a dealer is reluctant to support your request for goodwill, be sure to take your request all the way to top. Take it to the service manager, then to the general manager, and then to the owner. If the dealer won’t support you, try taking it to another dealer who will. It’s very important that you have the support of the dealer when you take your request to the manufacturer. Without it, it’s highly unlikely you will get help. Some dealers are granted the authority to make goodwill adjustments directly as well as making decisions as to whether a repair should be covered under warranty. This can be good and bad. As I said earlier, a dealer can have an ulterior motive for not wanting to repair your car under warranty…he can make more money if he makes you pay. A dealer who is authorized to make warranty/goodwill decisions is so authorized because he has kept his warranty and goodwill costs low. This is bad for the customer if the way he has kept them low is by denying legitimate claims to make himself look good in the eyes of the factory and to avoid a warranty audit. To some service managers, it’s more important to be popular with the factory than with the dealer he works for. You want a service manager who works for a good dealer and whose loyalty is with that dealer who will be for his customers. Manufacturers and dealers will favor those customers who have bought cars from them and had their cars serviced with them. The dealer/manufacturer has your entire sales and service history on their computer. If you have bought two or more cars of this make and had them serviced regularly by the dealers of that make, they will “stretch” on the warranty coverage and goodwill. When asking for repairs for your car that is out of warranty, be courteous, factual, and as brief as possible. Never threaten to take your business away, sue, or call the media. Never raise your voice or curse. Dealership and factory employees are just like you — they tend to respond more positively to someone who is courteous and rational. You should put your request in writing, email or regular mail. If things are moving too slowly, it’s a good idea to call the factory 800 customer assistance number. Your request will be referred back to the dealer, but it’s good to be on record with the factory. When encountering difficulties, search the Internet for your repair problem; you can often find chat rooms and other sources of information about people who have the same problem. You will be amazed at the number of people who have had the same problem. Sometimes even your dealer may not be aware that this repair is common among owners of the year, make and model. Knowing this gives you a strong psychological advantage. When you search for your repair problem, you may find out that the manufacturer has issued a notice to their dealers about this problem. This kind of notice is referred to as TSB or technical service bulletin. Sometime s TSB will authorize the dealer to repair the car under warranty but only if the customer asks! You may even learn that this repair is covered under a recall campaign, but the dealer should have known that when he checked your VIN in his computer. The bottom line is don’t just take “no” for an answer. Go through the steps that I’ve covered above and you should have a pretty good chance of getting at least some of your repair paid for by the manufacturer. Earl Stewart is a Toyota dealer in North Palm Beach, Fla., author of "Confessions of a Recovering Car Dealer" and a radio host. This piece was republished from his blog with permission. Photos: AldenJewell, nateOne via Flickr

https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/video/install-trailer-hitch-2015-ford-transit-connect-c12123.webm

https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/video/install-trailer-hitch-2015-ford-transit-connect-c12123.webm Hope that helps.

I wonder if I should tear my dash open just to see......

I am only running the free version of Torque, but it works. I'm currently using an inexpensive Acer Iconia 8, mounted with the ProClip. The tablet is also my GPS unit. I'm using the MapFactor app. It has been okay. Just research your tablet computer and apps carefully. Some tablets and/or apps need an internet signal or cell tower signal in order for them to work. You don't want to have to purchase an additional data plan, or use up data from your phone, if you don't have to. And consider what happens when you drive through where there is no cell phone reception, or when you're not within range of a cell tower. I'm doing just fine driving around in The City. Your mileage may vary.

Ask your dealership about an "after warranty adjustment".

I thought Tommy Chong & Rae Dawn Chong were Chinese.

And what is with that battery box configuration under the hood? I can already see how much of a pain it's going to be when it's time to change the battery. I suppose if I did things the old fashion way, simply wire my aftermarket accessories to the battery terminals and use a system of circuit breakers, inline fuses, relays, and switches, I could bolt everything right onto the top of the battery box cover. Has anyone added off-road lights instead of trying to mod the OEM lighting system? Modern LED lightbars can probably supply a better lightsource than any drop-in lamp or projector module.

Ah, yes. just like The 70's. Build a "Shaggin' Wagon". A Love Machine. Wood paneling, 6X9 speakers, and a disco ball. Far out. All that I can say on that matter is that my tinted windows have already paid for themselves. Fold down the 3 seats in the second row, and you've got quite the play space.

With the Econoline vans, the cargo hold was always very hot & stuffy, and even at full blast, the air conditioning was never good enough to cool the back of the van from the vents in the front. I understood that being a cargo van, it was only engineered for the comfort of whomever is riding in the first row, since nobody is suppose to be riding in the back. I thought that with the Transit Connect, since it is smaller, that the front A/C vents would be sufficient for the entire inside of the van. It makes me want to cut into my roof. Perhaps install something ridiculous, like an A/C unit.