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The CMP is the cam sensor which escobar swapped out. The Cracked sensor was the Crankshaft sensor on the front of the timing chain cover . With the number of times the cover was off its no surprise the Cranks sensor was damaged. Cool Waiting for the victory lap.

I don't have access to the Gen 1 wiring diagram but this could be spliced into the speaker output and split the signal into 4 channels witch would run your 4 speakers Ebay $12.85

I suspect it its the left side again, The right shaft goes from the transmission to a shaft bearing and then to the CV Joint. The left side is a short half shaft and as the wheel goes up and down there is radial motion at the Trans axle. I think the seal is the weak link. The problem has been around longer than the Gen 2 . I wonder what the percentage of units have the problem. The fix for the Escape must not have been the real thing. The Seal on mine has be come a small drip so I check it every 2500 Miles . I have 25987 on the clock now and just about to change the fluid in the gear so I will look at the seal issue again Maybe the new seal that they used is a fix this time. Keep us posted. Unfortunately all big companies are slow to admit a non safety related recall. The possible good news is the Escape did get a recall for the Axle seal

cool could be that. it can't be too serious if it starts and runs well. A scan will tell. Waiting for the end of the story.

hey before you go crazy could it be that the sensor is too near or far from the cam shaft? with the cam moving around could it have hit the tube that that sensor rides in . You have had the valve cover off so many time it could have messed up the distance to the Camshaft. Maybe just wishful thinking on my part. Still in it to the end with you

Correct. If you need to you can put the coil back on and start it to listen for the noise. Try not too drop any thing in the cam shafts and cam chain. it will make a small mess with the oil spray but can yield good information.

Style seems to cost alot.

The do make a Passenger version, only 2 seats like the SWB. But it has a wheel base similar to the LWB. When I got mine the one next to it was a SWB and the Back seat was folded . When I opened the side slider the it took the SWB version out of my consideration. It goes to the different things for different people. Thankfully there are many different ways that Cars and trucks are made. As for the The build and price photos some of the photos in the current Ad are from 2014 and 2015. so much for the accuracy.

With the Valve cover off bump the engine over with the starter to see if anything is too close and clicking. Could the crank position sensor be touching. You are getting very close to the end now great job. You are the go to guy for head work on the gen 1 TC.

I think that different buyers look for different things. I think that what is important can be different for every buyer. As for the Pro Master City the Side sliding door is 7" shorter and with the seat folded the side access is poor. Another thing is the rear suspension is independent technically good in reality too many parts and rubber bushings to wear out.

The other thing about the SWB is the second row of seats folds and tumbles. with the seat in the folded position the access through the sliding door is very poor. The LWB has a longer Slider, and the seat folds and moves forward giving great access with not much height reduction. The rear access made the SWB unacceptable for me. Something to consider when choosing a Family Hauler.

Well I guess I learned something to day until this post I never looked at the head lights to see what the color of the plastic was under the lens cover. That was not even on the Radar when I bought the TC. Thanks for expanding my thinking of what is important in the car buying process.

I think we all tend to struggle when it gets to -15c, I give up around -25c

If you stand at the rear doors and use the remote lock do you hear the rear door actuator ? If you use the trunk button do you hear the actuator ? You should hear the actuator in both cases . All the doors lock with one button push, The unlocking for all the doors comes on the second push. If you hear noise the linkage is bad in the door. If you do not here any thing then it could be a connection and that could be in several locations. Sounds like Warranty to me.

There are several Company's in the EU that sell roof tents and I have seen the picture of a gen2 with this mod. will see if I can find the sight and post it

Cool waiting more info

Sounds like the Valve seat was cut deeper on that cyl With the cam out does the Valve seal ? what are the different size caps avaliable for the valve lash. Did you check the lash on the other valves and what is the Spec for the valve clearances. Thanks for ther up date.

Nice job I did not see that listing at vantech Thanks for the info.

The Rear heater Gets most of its heat from the Heat Duct under the drivers seat that is near the intake for the rear heater Make sure the front heater is set to maximize the flow to the feet . That will allow the heat to the back to be maximized. The rear Booster heater only works with the Temp control Rotated into the Red zone which closes the rear most vents and directs the flow to the B pillar vents. This set up will make the most heat available to the rear seat. As for being a Family Hauler, my Cats like the second seat

I am with you there, if this goes on much longer you should use wing nuts it will make it faster !

Darn Take a photo when you get it off, Check the Valve Clearance, and see if that is ok. If that was not correct it would leave the valve open. I am in now keep me in the loop,

Did you liquid test the valves? yes the compression test should be done. Is it the same as it was before? Is the miss the same Cyl as before?

nphinc I think that the area between the cams has the ability to collect water , once you know that you are not loosing engine coolant then you can look for the water and how it would be getting into the area of number one spark plug. A cooling system pressure check could either confirm that no water is escaping or let you know that it is a problem. I have seen some water related problems due to water getting into the temp sensor in the Channel between the Cams. The boot on the coil seals the plug well and if that was faulty it would allow the water to get in. Seal of the VC at the plug well would definitely account for the oil. Looking forward to the up dates. mrtn the last time I worked on a Kent series engine it was in a Bobcat, and before that there was one Sailboat Auxiliary Kent series engine. We stopped seeing those in cars with the first Series Fiesta's. There were also a few Pinto's with the Kent, But I am now showing my age You are right on about the sludge that forms when the oil is not fully heated on short trips

I don't think the oil is getting into the coolant , wondering if the coolant is getting into the oil. The valve cover has an outer seal and three plug tube seals. I water is getting into the plug area of the valve cover and it leaks into the Plug well it could get into the oil and cause a miss

Check out Vantech they have a low profile rack that comes in at 10.5 and could be made shorter