G B L

I think that different buyers look for different things. I think that what is important can be different for every buyer. As for the Pro Master City the Side sliding door is 7" shorter and with the seat folded the side access is poor. Another thing is the rear suspension is independent technically good in reality too many parts and rubber bushings to wear out.

The other thing about the SWB is the second row of seats folds and tumbles. with the seat in the folded position the access through the sliding door is very poor. The LWB has a longer Slider, and the seat folds and moves forward giving great access with not much height reduction. The rear access made the SWB unacceptable for me. Something to consider when choosing a Family Hauler.

Well I guess I learned something to day until this post I never looked at the head lights to see what the color of the plastic was under the lens cover. That was not even on the Radar when I bought the TC. Thanks for expanding my thinking of what is important in the car buying process.

I think we all tend to struggle when it gets to -15c, I give up around -25c

If you stand at the rear doors and use the remote lock do you hear the rear door actuator ? If you use the trunk button do you hear the actuator ? You should hear the actuator in both cases . All the doors lock with one button push, The unlocking for all the doors comes on the second push. If you hear noise the linkage is bad in the door. If you do not here any thing then it could be a connection and that could be in several locations. Sounds like Warranty to me.

There are several Company's in the EU that sell roof tents and I have seen the picture of a gen2 with this mod. will see if I can find the sight and post it

Cool waiting more info

Sounds like the Valve seat was cut deeper on that cyl With the cam out does the Valve seal ? what are the different size caps avaliable for the valve lash. Did you check the lash on the other valves and what is the Spec for the valve clearances. Thanks for ther up date.

Nice job I did not see that listing at vantech Thanks for the info.

The Rear heater Gets most of its heat from the Heat Duct under the drivers seat that is near the intake for the rear heater Make sure the front heater is set to maximize the flow to the feet . That will allow the heat to the back to be maximized. The rear Booster heater only works with the Temp control Rotated into the Red zone which closes the rear most vents and directs the flow to the B pillar vents. This set up will make the most heat available to the rear seat. As for being a Family Hauler, my Cats like the second seat

I am with you there, if this goes on much longer you should use wing nuts it will make it faster !

Darn Take a photo when you get it off, Check the Valve Clearance, and see if that is ok. If that was not correct it would leave the valve open. I am in now keep me in the loop,

Did you liquid test the valves? yes the compression test should be done. Is it the same as it was before? Is the miss the same Cyl as before?

nphinc I think that the area between the cams has the ability to collect water , once you know that you are not loosing engine coolant then you can look for the water and how it would be getting into the area of number one spark plug. A cooling system pressure check could either confirm that no water is escaping or let you know that it is a problem. I have seen some water related problems due to water getting into the temp sensor in the Channel between the Cams. The boot on the coil seals the plug well and if that was faulty it would allow the water to get in. Seal of the VC at the plug well would definitely account for the oil. Looking forward to the up dates. mrtn the last time I worked on a Kent series engine it was in a Bobcat, and before that there was one Sailboat Auxiliary Kent series engine. We stopped seeing those in cars with the first Series Fiesta's. There were also a few Pinto's with the Kent, But I am now showing my age You are right on about the sludge that forms when the oil is not fully heated on short trips

I don't think the oil is getting into the coolant , wondering if the coolant is getting into the oil. The valve cover has an outer seal and three plug tube seals. I water is getting into the plug area of the valve cover and it leaks into the Plug well it could get into the oil and cause a miss

Check out Vantech they have a low profile rack that comes in at 10.5 and could be made shorter

Absolutely if you are getting water in the Plug well and the Valve cover is not good or the plug tube seal is bad then water gets into the oil from the valve cover . are you loosing coolant from the Radiator and expansion tank? Was it raining when you had the miss? mrtn thanks , was the EU engine a twincam 2.0?

mrtn was your escort gas or diesel ?, Escobar ( Help Replacing Piston Rings Thread) has done it in the last week. The plug well had coolant in it before the Plug was pulled out? That suggests that the fluid came from some where other than the Cylinder head gasket.Are you sure that it was Engine Coolant ? Did you clean out the well and pull the plug, was the electrode wet? Was the coolant low? The Misfire could come from water leaking down into the plug well from some where else. Sorry to ask so many questions, but any kind of water in the plug well could cause a Miss

I think that the the engine options of a line are determined by the total corporate fleet average desired. If the company is having trouble meeting the Mileage. offering an a high hp engine option in a popular vehicle could hurt the fleet average. The Ecoboost engine allows for the possibility for a higher average while allowing the advertising possibility of enhanced Zoom for the ads. In the case of the Diesels the Turbo is needed to make those engines acceptable in terms of performance. The modern auto box's have closed the mileage penalty with the electronic controls and the lockup converter.

Nobody gets an ecoboost 2.5 , The 2.5 here is a non turbo engine. If there was an ecoboost 2.5 it would come in about 278 hp and would be great. The 2.5 and the 1.6 turbo are 169 hp and 178 hp respectively. the 1.6 gets its 178 hp on 93 octane. Ford does not say what the hp is on 87 octane. The difference in the way the engines feel in the car is when the engine torque comes on. The base weight of the Lwb Van is 3650, and the Wagon base weight is 3970. This could have something to do with the 1.6 not being offered in the Lwb wagon model, while being offered in the Lwb Van.

A good computer Scan should be able to check the Temp sensor. Pretty soon the cars will do a background check to see if you should be allowed to go to the corner store. Good Report keep us up dated on the Temp issue.

Nice information. I know how much work it is to try and think of every possible condition that could appear. Even the major manufactures have things that get out of the plant before all the issues are worked out. Looking forward to the total report with pictures.

Great can't wait

Good Job , Pull the bad valve and Lap in the new valve before spending time on the other valves. You can tell if the seat is good by filling the combustion chamber with brakleen,and seeing if it leaks into the exhaust port . If it leaks then you will have to cut the seat. Thanks for the up date.

Well it all should come apart easy this time. Keep up the good work