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"will eliminate the massive amount of brake dust we're getting on the front rotors" I don't understand how he's getting so much brake dust on the front. Mine still look like nearly brand new, even though the van has 130K miles on it now - I bought the van brand new in 2015, so I know they're original. Whatever, though, he's their problem now! Haha Wait, I just got to user Kenton now being labeled a ... FOE!! Hahahaha

I *like* the idea of drain plugs in transmission pans - A worthwhile mod, IMO Years ago we had a Mitsu with an automatic which was known to fail, often before 100K was reached. It came from the factory with a trans drain plug (which I'm sure 90% of owners never made use of) and every other oil change I would drain and refill the trans - I was changing engine oil every 3K with conventional oil. The trans took just shy of 3 quarts to refill after a drain. This meant (to me at least) that I was doing a complete fluid change every 20K or so, which I'm sure had to be a good idea for a transmission known to have 'problems'. Our car was totaled by a drunk driver when we had about 90K on it and we never had any trans related problems, so money well spent, IMO If you have to drop the pan to install the drain plug, why not change the filter too? In my not so knowledgeable opinion, if you want to switch from conventional ATF to synthetic, I think you should do as close to a 100% change as possible when you make the switch - Not by adding 3 or 4 quarts once every year. I'm sure they'll say the conventional and the synthetic are 'compatible' but running with 3 or 4 quarts of new synthetic mixed with 5 or 6 quarts of old 50,000 mile conventional doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I just bought 16 quarts of full synthetic to make the switch on my TC, but I recently realized that I'll need about 4 quarts more to get a 95% or better switch over If you only want to change 3 or 4 quarts regularly with your new drain plug, I think I'd stay with the factory recommended conventional ATF - Just my opinion Don

I have changed a lot of trans filters. Most had only small amounts of debris. The real benefit Is the changing the heat stressed fluid.

Something about changing the fluid without changing the filter doesn't seem right to me. When it comes time to do mine, I'll reasearch the pan design and internal valve body footprint, then drill a hole in the pan to drain the fluid. Once the fluid has drained, I'll drop the pan, change the filter, and install a drain plug kit in the hole that I drilled in the pan.