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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/18/2019 in Posts

  1. Anything? Ho ho ho! Another option might be a simple DIY job with PlastiDip. Hit YouTube for some outstanding examples of work done using that. It'll stay where you put it, but once you're done, peel it right off.
    2 points
  2. About a week ago my 2015 TC started struggling to start. It would crank a few seconds before actually starting. It seemed that each day it got a little worse. I also noticed that my fuel economy took a dump during that time as well. Additionally, when it would crank prior to starting I noticed the strong smell of unburned fuel in the garage. That's never a good sign. Yesterday, it cranked for about 15 seconds (a long time for any fuel injected vehicle to crank and not fire up) before it finally started. Once started, it didn't immediately respond to throttle input and it seemed to be searching for the correct engine RPM. After a minute it settled down and appeared ok to drive (throttle response returned). It was then that I drove it directly to my local repair shop who theorized that it was the engine temp sensor. Upon completion of their diagnostics, they found that my engine temp sensor was reading 117 degrees below zero. The implication is that it was telling the computer to dump more fuel into the engine to compensate for the extremely cold temperatures it was sensing. Obviously, the sensor was bad because it was clearly NOT 117 below zero outside. As such, one hour and $143.00 later it was fixed. (I felt $143.00 is a bit high for a repair of this type, but I needed to get back on the road ASAP and wasn't gonna squabble over the $50.00 I felt I should have saved!) It may be worth noting that the temp sensor is mounted in the head and doesn’t measure coolant temperature, but simply the temperature of the cylinder head itself. This is unusual in my experience, and explains why the dash temp gauge was already in the 'normal' range at only a quarter mile from my house each day (coolant simply doesn't heat up that fast -but cylinder heads do). Additionally, I suspect the throttle response got better when I started it earlier because -as the cylinder head heated up (the sensor is mounted in the cylinder head right between plug 2 & 3) the sensor started reading the combustion heat in the head and allowed more throttle input once the motor warmed up. It runs like normal now, and my otherwise great fuel economy has returned. The Ford part number for this temp sensor is: 8S4Z-6G004-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. They run about $53.00USD. I hope that some find this information helpful. Ken
    1 point
  3. G B L

    2019 LWB rear springs

    I used 800# of tools in mine , dropped it the required 2 "s !
    1 point
  4. Slamsit

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Funny you say that. I heard it start up. Annnnnd. Well it’s loud. Especially on a cold start.....sounds like it’s cammed. Here are a few new pictures sent to me from the shop.shows the camera underneath the wing, and the dual exhaust well. That is a real functional carbon fiber wing as well
    1 point
  5. @kruss77 - Thanks for sharing. Great write-up and pics too. Smart that you drove it to a repair shop without delaying. Personally, I think the repair cost was a bargain. $53 parts and $90 labor, which you said took about an hour. That's about right. But also the tech quickly diagnosed the problem and fixed it correctly with no collateral damage, and you got back on the road in an hour. I put a lot of value in that. PS - Welcome to the forum. How about a few pics of your van? (if you haven't done so yet)
    1 point
  6. G B L

    2010 XLT Slammed

    It has nothing to do with the money or the added value!!
    1 point
  7. mrtn

    2010 XLT Slammed

    I thought the Brits were crazy modding their Connects.
    1 point
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