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Reviving a dead thread here. I did some shopping at car-part dot com. Where you can search the world (literally) for a certain part down to the make and model. I found several TC Titanium's unfortunately in a totaled state. But there were a handful with the upper reflector still intact. I reached out to one of the junkyards for a set. $70 and two business days later, BOOM I'm part of the elusive club!

They got me with the co-branding and cross marketing. Just did an oil change with the "Ford recommends Castrol" and "Castrol recommends Bosch".

Purchased and submitted rebate on November 03, 2019. I got the check in the mail today, November 12, 2019.

I don't think a few wiser people choosing not to buy Mobil products would have any effect on the companies bottom line. I choose it because of the results I have gotten, and the price,, I think it was $28 for 5 qts at wally world,, BUT I will admit I prolly would get the same results from any top shelf oil you guys could name. On Mobile 1: 394,000 trouble free miles out of a AMC straight six designed in 1957, converted to EFI and In my 1996 jeep cherokee before I wore out a rear main. 410,000 out of a Geo Metro with the Toyota twin cam. 380,000 out of a tacoma with the 2.4 L four banger,, would have got more but crashed it. and my best: 528,000 out of the Toyota 2.7 Liter 4 banger in my 2006 Tacoma, I pulled a 2,000 enclosed trailer and 800 or so in the bed. It had low compression and the mpg's were falling, imagine that....528k,,,,never even replaced the timing chain. not a single engine problem. My research told me my oil and filter choice was a major factor In ALL these engines.. "Mobile is a city in Alabama" PMSL good catch ?

I got some from Amazon when they had a rebate, and Amazon had a really low price. Pennzoil full synthetic 5W-20. It seemed okay. I'm fairly confident that any major name brand, or store brand from a well known store, which labels the oil with the API starburst, donut, & GF rating is useable. Useable for me. Some high end oils have better better grade base stock. Sure, I acknowledge that even though I can't tell the difference, there is a difference between group II, group III, whatever oil. And I trust that some oil formulations have different additives in different amounts, However, I don't have a high performance car. My thinking is that any modern oil with SN, SN Plus, and GR5 rating will be good enough for my car, as long as I'm changing the oil frequently. As motor oil is such a hot button topic, I'm open to anyone else's explanation of TBN, Moly, Boron, et cetera.....and how that will benefit this little naturally aspirated 2.5L Duratec. I'll probably still buy whatever is on sale, with a coupon, offering a rebate. It's all brand name oil. Even Amazon.com oil & Wal*Mart oil are able to meet API & GF specifications. And I can't think of any over the counter, name brand oil, which will not meet Ford specification. In my youth, I spent more money. A lot more money. I used boutique brand oil. I can't tell if any of those oil formulations had a long term benefit to those cars. I do know, that without a doubt, when they claimed that the oil would yield better mileage and more power - I did not see it happen. Royal Purple, Red Line, and Lucas Oil did not make a Honda Civic faster.

Havoline has been a premium grade oil for half a century or more - I would have no qualms about using it in any engine of mine. Everything I have is now using synthetic, so the super priced stuff you found from Amazon wouldn't do me much good though. One time years ago, I found Purolator Pure One oil filters to fit my Mazdas (and also my Kubota diesel) on Amazon for less than $3 each, so I bought a case of 24 - They were 7 or 8 bucks everywhere else. Those lasted me several years. Every now and then, Amazon has something at a price almost too good to be true, but it is. Those sales usually only last for a few days, so if it's something you use, buy up a ton of it while you're getting it for half price or less Other than Exxon and Mobil products, the only other brands I shy away from are Pennzoil and Quaker State. Old timers here may recall that both of those were originally made only from Pennsylvania crude oil (hence the names) which was very high in Paraffin (wax) which was thought in the old days to be the cat's meow for engines with babbited bearings. When it came time to do any engine work though, you literally needed a crow bar to pry the valve cover off the engine because it was full of solid wax! I'm sure in this modern age, both Pennzoil and Quaker State are now making very good products, but my thinking has always been that the other manufacturers have about 30 years experience on them, because in the old days, they weren't researching any good oil molecules . . . . they were just peddling that waxy crap! ☹️ Don

It looks like Havoline is worth the money. People much more knowledgeable than me, could view the numbers on what's in the bottle, and weigh in on what's good and what's not so good. There are much more expensive oil formulations. The more expensive oil may be better. But for $8.15 for 5 quarts, Havoline has won my business. PQIA tested the 5W-30 weight. The 5W-20 is probably pretty close when it comes to the additive package. Probably almost the same amounts of magic juju to clean the engine and hold contaminants in suspension. High Mileage Oil is suppose to also have fairy dust which conditions and swells the seals. I'll let you guys know if anything bad happens from using this oil.