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mgordon

Help removing rear bumper

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Hello all,

 

I'm removing my factory trailer hitch on my 2919 TC to install a stronger, class 3 one so I can use a motorcycle carrier.

 

I have all bolts removed and the hitch is loose, but my problem is that in order to slide it out, the rear bumper needs to get out of the way.

 

I've found the 6 torx bolts inside the hatch, but can't figure out what plastic clips or other hardware are still holding it in place... And I'm always wary of breaking those plastic pieces.

 

Can anyone offer any advice for how to get the bumper removed?

 

Thanks!

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I have a factory trailer hitch on my 2015 cargo. Not sure if anything has changed with your Back to Future 2919 model, but when the factory hitch is installed the rear bumper is removed. The hitch becomes the fear bumper in addition to providing the hitch component. The bumper cover attaches to that assembly. If you were to remove the factory hitch, you would be without a rear bumper, yes? The aftermarket hitches like the popular Curt model that many forumites have installed mounts below the regular bumper assembly. When I got my van I looked into having a hitch shop reposition the receiver part because I felt it sticks out too much, but they wouldn't do any mods for liability reasons. What type of aftermarket hitch are you installing?

 

There's been lots of discussions on several threads about adding weight to the back of the vehicle on hitches and trailers. You'd have to search the forum for those threads. IMHO, as a hitch mount carrier, I'd be careful adding anything more than a few bicycles to the back of the van. There has to be a weight limit as to how much you can hang off the back of the van, just like the tongue weight of a trailer, which I have no experience or guidance with.

 

Edited by windguy

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Thanks for your feedback.  And yes, the Transit Connect model stayed remarkably consistent all the way through 2919!

 

So you're right, what I need to remove is (apparently!) the bumper cover; not the bumper -- I mean just the exterior plastic bit.  The model I'm installing is: https://www.curtmfg.com/part/13167

 

All I'm carrying is a Honda Grom, which barely weighs over 200lbs.  My thinking is that the factory Class II hitch is rated for 200lbs tongue weight, the Class III I purchased is rated for 525 -- I know it's know exactly as simple as that, but I was thinking that if the Factory Class II is so close to the weight of my motorcycle, that the Class III should be OK.

 

In theory the Curt hitch should provide some of the same bumper functionality that the outgoing factory hitch does, right?

 

I'll do some more searching through the forum - thanks!

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That Curt model looks the same as what others have install and it sits below the existing bumper. It's a nice looking hitch.

The only issue I recall is that its a bit more difficult to lower the spare tire but it's doable.

I don't think you need to remove any of the original bumper or cover though I don't recall anyway adding the Curt with a stock hitch in place. That may be a problem.

Worst case you can have a welder remove the receiver part of the OEM setup if you need that clearance. Just a thought.

 

The Curt hitch won't provide any bumper functionality. You have to leave the original bumper/hitch combo in place or you won't have a required bumper and method to secure the bumper cove, unless you source a used non-hitch bumper from a salvage yard. Easy to find but probably expensive to ship so pickup might be required.

 

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I thought this thread had the answer.

 

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13 hours ago, mgordon said:

 

I'm removing my factory trailer hitch on my 2919 TC to install a stronger, class 3 one so I can use a motorcycle carrier.

Find a shop with a plasma cutter and slice the receiver off the factory hitch and then you  can install the Curt Class 3 .

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Thanks all - I'm starting to wonder if this whole project is worth it just to carry a toy around every once in a while!

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I know from personal experience that carrying a motorcycle that way isn't the best way to carry a motorcycle.  I have a cheap product.   Unless you spend more money than the bike is worth, you buy a lower cost unit which just isn't as strong.  Then the bike is bouncing around as you are traveling down the road.  I did it a few times with dirt bikes, and even that seemed like all the bouncing would cause something to fail.  I now use my motorcycle carrier for a bicycle.  

 

By all means, you could buy the most expensive carrier available. Then you can transport with peace of mind.  

 

P1000418.JPGIMG_0578.JPGmaxresdefault.jpgattachment.php?attachmentid=169386&d=152Harbor-Freight-Haul-Master-Motorcycle-Ca

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Well I was sort of sitting out on this thread, but I feel like I need to throw my 2 cents in and perhap save you a lot of effort and some money.  Just to remove the factory hitch is a pain (unless you just like wrenching)  Then you will have to find (junk yard) or fabricate a support structure.  A new one is ridiculously priced.  You would be way better off to just by a lightweight tow behind trailer.  You could just get a cheap dedicated motorcycle trailer and save a lot of money and effort.  Personally, if you are only hauling a Grom (ps.  I totally dig those!), I would by a lightweight utility trailer with a ramp.  That would give you the ability to haul other stuff, and pack extra camping gear next to the Grom.

 

Here is one from Northern Tool.   Good luck with whatever you decide! :)

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I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy.  Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off.

 

Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

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17 minutes ago, davidparker said:

a Grom (ps.  I totally dig those!)

Really cool bike.  

 

20 minutes ago, davidparker said:

I would by a lightweight utility trailer with a ramp.  That would give you the ability to haul other stuff, and pack extra camping gear next to the Grom.

 

Here is one from Northern Tool.

 

Harbor Freight has a small flat trailer which you can use as a base.  A sheet of plywood and a wheel chock, and you are in business.  Or fabricate it into a full box, with a little imagination.  

 

 

62647_zzz_500.jpg

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/trailers-towing/trailers/1720-lbs-capacity-48-in-x-96-in-super-duty-folding-trailer-62647.html

 

 

 

 

Screenshot_20191027-174132.png

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27 minutes ago, dinocarsfast said:

 

Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

 

That could make the effort and cost worth it!

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Thanks for the help all!  Nothing is ever easy, is it?

 

1 hour ago, dinocarsfast said:

Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

 

Thanks for the offer - where are you located?  That could be good - but shipping a big heavy chunk of metal could be tough!

 

I had been shying away from the trailer idea mainly due to cost and the fact that I'd have to store it somewhere (I have some room in the shed, but not very much) - but that could end up being a good option as well.

 

And thanks for not teasing me for my tiny motorcycle preferences!  I've ridden a handful of bigger bikes over the years, but I honestly love this thing.  

 

 

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1 hour ago, mgordon said:

And thanks for not teasing me for my tiny motorcycle preferences!  I've ridden a handful of bigger bikes over the years, but I honestly love this thing. 

 

 

The Grom is a very good bike.  It's fun to ride, and great for The City.  I wish I had the space for another toy in my toy box. 

1 hour ago, mgordon said:

- but shipping a big heavy chunk of metal could be tough!

 

 

Unless you have a local salvage yard with that part in stock, your choices are limited.  Buy a bumper from a dealership - what would that cost?  Find the part on eBay - and you still pay for shipping one way or the other.  Source the part from a nationwide junk yard database - and you still pay for shipping.  No such thing as free shipping - unless you can find it on Amazon.  Amazon pricing is unique as sometimes the pricing is below market value and the purchase price is even lower than the cost of shipping. Shipping is always built into the pricing when they advertise "free shipping".  

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Grom is a great little bike - much more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow!  When I had my super sport bikes it was really frustrating to just putter along in the neighborhood, my scooter is much more fun to ride locally.  200 pounds 110cc fuel injected so it will go pretty good.  I haul it in the van, It fits with the rear seats folded - I have 6 passenger version so front wheel goes between middle seats.   Usually I take rear seats out and put board on the floor.  

 

I have an old Holsclaw dirt bike trailer that I added  wood deck to.  Handy for hauling wood and stuff and it is very small and light.  Northern Tools has an aluminum trailer that is small and would be great for hauling the Grom.  The Holsclaw trailer is very light and tows great behind the van - hard to see in mirrors though.

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If you have the hitch off then you cut the receiver off you have the beam to put  back on the car under the bumper cover to support the cover.

Or if you found a pro the receiver could be sliced off and the TC would be ready for the Class three hitch in a 1/2 hour.

Edited by G B L

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On 10/28/2019 at 10:10 AM, mgordon said:

 

Thanks for the offer - where are you located?  That could be good - but shipping a big heavy chunk of metal could be tough!

 

 

 

I am in Wisconsin, but cutting the receiver off would be a good option too if you didnt mind the extra weight

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