2016 TC Cargo Aftermarket Sound System

[i86hotdogs]

Hello everyone. I am brand new here, and have just recently acquired a 2016 TC cargo. I am sure we all are aware of the mediocre quality of the sound system the factory set up is; so I would like to upgrade it. I have two 12" sub-woofers installed into a wood box, and an Alpine 1000w amplifier that used to be installed in an old vehicle of mine. I have the wiring for everything as well, including the power, ground, speaker, and audio wiring. I do not have an aftermarket head unit. I was hoping there would be a possibility to keep the factory unit installed. Currently looking for direction in this job. Whether it be instructions to disassemble the front dash, or a good place to run the power cable to the battery. I plan on mounting the subs behind the river seats, so the length of wire won't be obnoxiously long. Like I said, any help would be greatly appreciated; and I am looking forward to becoming a part of this community. 

[tcconvert]

The dealer informed me this can be done, but they had to refer me to an outside independent installer and told me I would likely lose some of the control functionality on the steering wheel.

 

I was shocked to discover, after purchasing, that there was no easy way to connect satellite radio! Seems that today, if what you want is not already on the vehicle when you buy it, it is very difficult to add aftermarket electronics, essentially because the necessary interfaces aren't there. Maybe this is not the case with other vehicles. In any case, it was too difficult and I didn't want to lose my steering wheel controls, so I gave up on it. After a while I accepted that the interior road noise was so overpowering that I would have to crank up the volume of ANY add-on to such a level that what is left of my hearing would be compromised (you probably don't worry about that unless you are my age).

 

This opens up an even bigger can of worms.....considering how to noise-insulate the interior so you can hear your music (and everything else). I gave up on that partway through. It was all just too overwhelming for a vehicle I would not own any longer than 5 years. There are some great things about the TC. And some not-so-great. I would like to see a cargo version with interior insulation and paneling for those of us who value the space and don't need the seats, but would appreciate a higher level of comfort.

[i86hotdogs]

Fortunately, my steering wheel does not have any functions besides the cruise control. I also do not own or desire satellite radio. Therefore those issues will already be dismissed in this job. My apologies, I should have mentioned that in the original post. So I'm going to infer that with my set up, it is possible to keep the factory head unit. Now to find a way to run a wire through the firewall, and get into that dashboard...

 

I have plans later on to insulate the bare walls of the rear in the future. I've already researched a few brands like Dynamat and Hushmat. That, and a long list of other things I would like to do.

[Don Ridley]

Browse and search the forum. Several have upgraded speakers and sound systems. I posted info on connecting power to large loads. The basic Sync and Sync3 head units are made by Sony. Install a quality amp (that accepts line inputs) and/or DSP and the sound is great. Only reason to upgrad head unit is for custom features and display.

 

Finally, there are some discussions on sound deadening, but more info can be found on car audio forums.

 

Check out the Audicontrol products to convert your line level inputs if necessary.

 

Have fun and welcome.

[Fifty150]

Subwoofers are for bass.  Low range.  You will need a crossover unit.  Don't simply feed all your frequencies into an amplifier, then expect it all to sound good through subwoofers.  It just doesn't work that way.  

[i86hotdogs]

Good to know, Fifty. Audio and electronics are probably my weakest point in automotive. In the past, I've simply wired in an amp and subs into an aftermarket head unit and called it a day. I was shopping around for 3-way speakers for up front as well. This is why I posted this question to this forum. I am far from an expert on anything! Thanks again for the insight.

[mdarren]

Try Crutchfield. They can give you some advice on the best audio setup based on your needs and budget.

[i86hotdogs]

On 2/6/2019 at 1:35 AM, mdarren said:

Try Crutchfield. They can give you some advice on the best audio setup based on your needs and budget.

I go there for any audio needs. Shopping around I can get a set of decent kicker speakers, tweeters, and crossovers with the proper wiring harnesses and mounting brackets for $100 out the door. They also can assist over the phone with any step by step installation help. 

[zalienz]

I used an AudioControl DQ-61 to interface with the factory radio. It accepts speaker level inputs from the factory radio and converts the output to low level signals you can send to a 4 channel amp and subwoofers. The sky is the limit, after this processor. It was worth the effort and expense, in my opinion.

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/

 

 

[i86hotdogs]

On 3/22/2019 at 10:25 PM, zalienz said:

I used an AudioControl DQ-61 to interface with the factory radio. It accepts speaker level inputs from the factory radio and converts the output to low level signals you can send to a 4 channel amp and subwoofers. The sky is the limit, after this processor. It was worth the effort and expense, in my opinion.

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/

 

 

 

WOOO that looks way out of my skill level. But good to know its a possibility! I may have to reach out to shops to get this done. Seems like it will cost the same whether I buy a new head unit and install kit, or take it to a shop and have them install into the stock unit. Decisions decisions...

[herb]

I just want more volume , i wanted to just replace the speakers with higher quality ones but i haven't been able to find out if that would make a difference .  The whole two way speaker or 3 way speaker to go with and i'm clueless as to the watts recommended and size also .

 

I find the interior very quite but the overall volume is just a little bit too low for me.  I think i would need two door speakers and two tweeters from what i read .

[mrtn]

Nope, the OEM speakers are pretty good. You won't gain much just by replacing the speakers.

 

2 way components with an amplifier would make a difference.

[zalienz]

3 hours ago, mrtn said:

Nope, the OEM speakers are pretty good. You won't gain much just by replacing the speakers.

 

2 way components with an amplifier would make a difference.

Yep.

 

If it's not loud enough, you need more power (amplifier). The stock speakers sound good, but are only rated at 20 watts, more power will blow them, so you need both, higher watt component speakers with an amplifier that matches the watt rating of the new speakers.

 

11 hours ago, i86hotdogs said:

 

WOOO that looks way out of my skill level. But good to know its a possibility! I may have to reach out to shops to get this done. Seems like it will cost the same whether I buy a new head unit and install kit, or take it to a shop and have them install into the stock unit. Decisions decisions...

 

Yes choose carefully. Many like to upgrade to different head units, speakers and speaker positions in the elusive quest to find great sound. One thing I have found with the OEM's is they are very good at placing the stereo image and soundstage to resemble a concert sound experience. Keeping the factory radio and speaker positions keeps this intact. I think they just lack power. Amps and better speakers is the direction I went. Seek out a pro install shop if it's out of your skill level.

 

[Don Ridley]

I upgraded the speakers and it made a big difference in the sound quality. I remember I could play them louder than the stock ones because they could handle the 20w from the head unit. 

 

If you have the lower end head unit you definitely need to replace everything. Otherwise, new speakers may be enough of an upgrade. For me the speaker upgrade was temporary and I eventually spent crazy money on new equipment.

[mrtn]

Speakers and amps need to march eatch other as well. And at higher power levels the stock cables will be the bottlenecks. 

 

I recently made a rookie mistake buying a pair of good 2-way speakers rated at 80W of continuous power and paired them with a 2x55W amplifier. I left OEM cables in place. 

Turned out sounding worse than telephone. Really really bad. Then I noticed the writing on the magnets: "minimum imput power 40W". Which means that the low power amp + thin wires did not deliver the oomph needed for the drivers to move adequately. Reverted to original and it sounded great (full sound insulation done).

[i86hotdogs]

So I've got a set of speakers, tweeters, and crossovers coming in today. (link below) The setup seems pretty basic. Crutchfield does a great job of including harnesses and mounting brackets. A deeper dive shows that if I want to hook up the amp and subs I own, I'll need a line converter like zalienz mentioned. That job is a minute away, though. I don't plan on adding those until the weather is warmer, pick up a line converter, and I install a bunch of Kilmat in the rear. 

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html

[Don Ridley]

This explains how to remove the door please panels.

 

These tools are invaluable.

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3KNOVEW4AJFYE&keywords=door+panel+removal+tool+kit&qid=1553878200&s=gateway&sprefix=door+pan&sr=8-3

 

[i86hotdogs]

1 hour ago, Don Ridley said:

This explains how to remove the door please panels.

 

These tools are invaluable.

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3KNOVEW4AJFYE&keywords=door+panel+removal+tool+kit&qid=1553878200&s=gateway&sprefix=door+pan&sr=8-3

 

Your'e a saint for providing these. I already posses a handful of trim removal tools from various experiences. I'll update once things are moving. *eagerly watches the clock waiting for 3:00 to hit*

[i86hotdogs]

My amp that I own is a 2 channel Kenwood (see link). I think I'll hook the amp to the speakers through the crossover, and wire them to the stock head unit. I can make due without the two 12' subs I have. This is where I fall short in the experience: Where does one mount/install the crossovers? I am guessing I'll install one up near the foot-well on each side. Mount the amp under one of the seats, and hook everything up there. I'll need a line out converter. I know zalienz recommended one, but it looks like way more than I need. Looks like a two channel converter is enough (see second link). I know there is a rubber punch-out near the driver a-pillar to get through the firewall. My power wire will go though there. The hardest part will be figuring out where the speaker and tweeter wires go through the door and pillar. Any more help than that would be appreciated. 

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-aImQqrUfUJF/p_113KAC7205/Kenwood-KAC-7205.html

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698413/JL-Audio-LoC-22.html?tp=2001

[Don Ridley]

The crossovers will fit nicely under the head unit (see photo below).

 

Here's the controversial advice: use the existing wiring for the mids in the doors. My system outputs 100+W/channel and it sounds great with the factory wiring. Wiring for mids and tweeters will not carry the same current as subwoofer wiring (for any style music).

This may help ease your mind:

https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/usa/en/blog/speaker-cables

 

You need to run new wiring for the tweeters because they are connected in parallel to the mids. A capacitor on the factory tweeter filters out the lower frequencies. Here's the basic speaker wiring tasks:

 

1. Run 2 sets of line level wires from the head unit to the amp.

2. Convert from line level to low level inputs. 

3. Connect low level inputs to the amp.

4. Run 2 sets of amplified outputs back to the head unit and connect to the crossovers.

5. Run 2 sets of filtered (crossover) outputs from each crossover to the tweeter and mid range speakers.

 

Due to the number of wires I recommend 16GA max for the runs to and from the head unit and amp.

 

The tweeter wiring is easy to run in the A pillars. Using the existing wiring and plugs for the doors will save hours of work and keep from having an exposed wire stretched across the door jam opening.

 

This is what I used. It solved a lot of problems and the DSP is awesome. But it took my initial $150 speaker upgrade project into the $1500+ project category.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/d-4800/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2019 by Don Ridley

[i86hotdogs]

I agree with using the existing mids wiring. Crutchfield included wiring harnesses for the speakers making the hookup a breeze.

I have all the wiring needed from my last vehicle, just need to pick out a line out converter.

Does the converter need to match the amp's RMS output? or just be enough to match the stock head unit's output? That's a difference of either $10 for an 80 watt converter (link 1), or a $70 400 watt converter (link 2)

My biggest obstacle is trying to find time and space to put some serious work into it. This week should be warmer, and hopefully dry. 

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html?tp=2001

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIL0LW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1

[Don Ridley]

The line converter needs to handle the power coming from the head unit, 20w.

Edited April 2, 2019 by Don Ridley

[i86hotdogs]

21 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

The line converter needs to handle the power coming from the head unit, 20w.

$10 converter it is!!

[i86hotdogs]

Hey to all, it's been a minute since I last posted about this. But I feel you all should know where I am with the sound system.

 

First off, the 2016 Transit Connect XL Cargo has two speakers. One in each door, and ZERO tweeters. You should have seen my face when I disassembled the a-pillar.

 

I decided against the line converter, and bought an aftermarket head unit. I missed having a CD player, and the Bluetooth is a nice perk to have. I also enjoy the ability to tune the audio controls via the Sony app.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS920BH/Sony-WX-GS920BH.html?cc=07

 

Since this head unit has a high powered amp built in (40 watts), I had to run a dedicated power wire to the battery. Thanks to all your help here, and other posts, that was an easy task.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK12/Crutchfield-CK12.html?cc=02

 

I decided to return the Polk speaker set, and buy a set of 3-way speakers to compensate for the lack of tweeters.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html

 

Sound is great. Louder, clearer, bass is adequate. I even ran the Bluetooth mic through the dash and up the the a-pillar. Latched onto the sun visor arm. I'll add a picture of that later.

 

Reading up on some of your set ups, I'd like to add a low profile powered sub underneath one of the seats (or both!). That would be an easy connection thanks to the head unit's capabilities.

 

I apologize I did not take any photos. I know those are a huge help for others. If anyone would like specific photos, please let me know, and I will gladly take my dash apart to do so. I've taken my dash and panels apart so many times now it's easy to do

[stanger_missle]

You might of posted it and I missed it but what head unit did you end up going with? I'm looking at this Alpine that has the optional amp that mounts to the rear of the head unit and gives 45w RMS. Its a nice compact package (but spendy!).

 

I also have a cargo van with only 2 speakers. If you pull the interior door panels off of the sliding doors, there is a plastic (foam?) film over where the rear door speakers would be. I was thinking about putting speakers there or even in the rear doors. My concern is that while keeping only the front door speakers would be the easy button, would sound volume suffer due to how low those speakers are mounted? Couple that with the increased road noise the comes with driving an uninsulated cargo van, I'm worried that I would not be satisfied. I've even thought of finding some UTV speaker pods to mount up the rear corners in the van to help improve the soundstage. But I'm probably just overthinking things haha.