Turn on all interior lights (2016)

[Don Ridley]

  As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. 

This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts.

The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20.  You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one

.https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300

Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle.  It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs.

 

Remove the small panel behind the door latch

 

Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle

 

Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal.  The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look.

***see diagram below***

Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection.

The switch is wired to the door module.  Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted.  Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire.

Another view of the cut wiring

I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future).  These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape

The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light).

You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.

 

Edited March 17, 2017 by Don Ridley

[mrtn]

Good write-up. Can't use the trick as opening the door turns on the LPG circulation pump, wouldn't want to run it with no reason but I need to insulate the doors and replace the speakers anyway, so spot on.

[G B L]

Great job. Another project to consider.

[103west43rd]

Don, thanks for the technical addition to the forum. I am sure other forum members will be using your tutorial.

[zalienz]

Don,

Great job on the interior lights. I was thinking of adding an additional LED light in the cargo area that would be manually switched but this is a better idea. I think I will incorporate it.

Thank you for sharing.

[chong]

Nice work! This is pretty cool!

[Don Ridley]

Some of the photo links are broken. Here's one of the missing photos

 

[collinjx]

Thanks for the pic. But where is the son of a gun located.

[Don Ridley]

It's behind the door panel on the driver's door, near the interior door handle. You have to remove the door panel to access it.

[collinjx]

Thanks for the info. You weren't kidding about the door panel being a bear to remove. I was lucky not to destroy any mounting clips. My 2018 TC has two more bolts holding the panel on. One close to the door latch behind a cover plate and one at the bottom of the panel. The only wires behind my panel was going to three plugs. One plug going to the power window switches, a plug going to the lock/unlock switch, and the third a two wire plug going to I guest the module. I'll post pics of the component tomorrow. I replaced the panel before taking any pictures. As you can tell I'm not very tech savvy.

[Don Ridley]

It's possible your TC does not have door modules. Mine is an xlt trim. If you have a lower trim model it may not have the modules.

[jrm223]

Power options all run through the door modules, so he has them. Even the door position (closed/ajar) goes through it, which is why you had to cut a wire there rather than bypassing an old-school plunger switch in the door frame like back in the day. I suspect that even a super-base XL without any power locks/windows/mirrors would still have some module there because of the closed/ajar function going through it. Being a later 2018 model, it's possible that FoMoCo revised wiring or modules, perhaps changed the mounting location, etc, so referencing manuals & diagrams for the 2018 model may be required. 

[collinjx]

Yes mine is a base trim.  Without a wiring diagram I'm guessing how the module and door light switch works. I may try to figure out a way to use the standard dome light.

[Don Ridley]

Here is the wiring diagram for a 2016 without door modules. You should be able to put a switch in parallel with the door latch switch (similar to modification on the door module version). Locating the switch and wires may be a challenge.

int lights_no module.pdf

[collinjx]

I'm going to give it a shoot. Thanks.

 

[collinjx]

My TC must be a bear bones model. I couldn't find a wire behind the door panel that would change voltage when the door opens. So I went a different direction. I soldered a 18 gauge wire to the dome light negative plate and tap a 6-32 threaded hole in the positive plate on the back of the dome light. I ran wiring back to the LED light bar that I installed in the cargo area. Now the dome and cargo lights work off the dome light off/auto/on switch. A switch on the door panel would had been easier to turn on the interior light. But modifying the dome light looked to be my only option.

dome light 

[Don Ridley]

Good job. 

[Delmar]

Would be nice to add the XLT light. This can turn on the local light, turn on all lights, or prevent all lights from turning on.

 

 

[Don Ridley]

Is that light from a newer TC? What year? Maybe it communicates on the CanBus to control the lights.

[Delmar]

From my 2016, one is over each front door.

[collinjx]

I found these interior lights on EBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/303539642506. I wired red to a always live terminal, black to ground, and yellow to the ground on the cargo area dome light. Open a door, now all lights turn on, shut the door all lights turn off. You would think all was good. Wrong.

 

After closing the door, the newly added interior leds will come back on after 20 mins. The forward dome light stays off. I've contacted the supplier and I'm hoping they have a solution for the problem. 

 

 

[Don Ridley]

If I remember correctly the dome lights turn off with the dimming "theater effect" by slowly bringing the ground connection up to 12v so the light has 12v on both wires. 

[Don Ridley]

Here's the interior light circuit for a 2016.

interior lights circuit.pdf

[collinjx]

16 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Here's the interior light circuit for a 2016.

interior lights circuit.pdf

Reading wiring diagrams isn't my strong suit. But it looks like the cargo light doesn't go straight to ground. I guess it's something to do with the BCM turning the light back on after it times out. Thanks for showing the diagram.

[YONKK]

Is there any way to Block the doors from turning on all the lights.  How does the door turn on the lights? I don't see no push in switches.