103west43rd

Hello 2013TransitConnect. No problem, I am just reminding everyone to take advantage of all the previous info posted over the past years. One string on a topic helps keep all the info together for searching but the most important thing is all our forum members are comfortable posting their questions. Thanks for reading the previous towing posts. Here is the post on the Curt hitch http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/1890-hitch-type-used-curt-or-hidden-hitchdraw-tite/#entry5774 . How about a photo shop of your trailer behind your Transit Connect?

Hello 2013TransitConnect. In the over four years this forum has been collecting information, the search function at the top of the page is our personal Google! Here is the towing forum string starting back in 2009 http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/38-towing-with-the-transit-connect/?hl=hitch it contains a forum member that has been towing for 40,000 miles (with no problems) and hollowood's details of loading his trailer with thousands of pounds of household belongings and towing over 4,00 miles (the trailer broke down a few times but not the Transit Connect!). There is also another posting on hitches that mentions the Curt hitch that curves around the tailpipe. If you decide to tow, please post a photo of your Transit Connect and that great trailer of yours. It will look great!

If you Google "Does premium gas help in a car that is designed for regular"" you will see all the articles say no if your car is tuned and running properly. As for more energy in premium gas, that is also untrue. Here is an article from MIT...... What’s the difference between premium-grade and regular gasoline? Premium gas has a higher octane rating that may—or may not—make it a good choice for your engine… With slight variations—depending on the crude oil and the refining and blending processes used in production—all gasoline grades contain the same amount of chemical energy. When combusted, premium (high-octane) gasoline and the less-expensive (and less-glamorous) regular, and all grades in between, provide the same amount of thermal energy, or heat, which an engine uses to generate the mechanical power that moves a vehicle. There is, however, another aspect to this question, notes Ahmed Ghoniem, the Ronald C. Crane Professor of Mechanical Engineering at MIT: How much of that raw heat energy can the engine actually convert into mechanical energy? “One can argue that using high-octane fuels in the right engine ultimately leads to more mechanical power from the same amount of fuel,” he says. In other words, higher-octane fuel confers an advantage in some cars, but not others. It allows performance-oriented engines (specifically, those with higher compression ratios) to burn gasoline at higher pressures and higher temperatures. These conditions at the moment of combustion create better thermodynamic efficiency, so a greater percentage of the gasoline’s heat energy gets converted into motive power. Octane rating is a measure of grace under pressure: how evenly a gasoline will burn under difficult conditions, like hard acceleration. Ideally, the vaporized gasoline inside an engine’s cylinder burns by the propagation of a wave of flame, ignited by the cylinder’s spark plug. This allows a smooth transfer of power to the engine’s crankshaft and the car’s wheels. But at higher pressures or temperatures, small pockets of gasoline vapor can prematurely explode, or self-ignite, creating a distinctive “knocking” sound, as well as potentially destructive shock waves. Gasoline with a higher octane rating does not self-ignite easily, and burns more evenly than lower-octane fuel under harsh conditions, resisting detonation and knocking. Modern engines, with electronic sensors and controls, are very good at preventing detonation of lower-octane gas (this is why drivers no longer hear much knocking). But high-octane fuel is still specified when designers want to achieve better acceleration and power output, and when they are willing to accept a slightly bulkier and heavier engine with higher operating costs. — Peter Dunn

ok homebrewermike.What side license plate light did you remove? The power (hot +12 volts) goes to the left license plate light then to the right license plate light. The left side light has two wires on its hot side. If you removed the left side light and socket, you may have broken the connection to the right side license plate light. For issue #2, the connector for the shifter does not have a isolated reverse circuit. All the wiring goes into electronic modules. The power for the reverse lights comes from the reverse relay in the battery junction box above and behind the battery, and goes through the firewall and down the left side of the Transit Connect. If you are up to it, the wire goes into a 20 pin connector behind the kick panel under the dash, to the left of the fuse panel, on the inside of the left fender. If you get this far and remove the panel, you will notice there are two 20 pin connectors. Only one of them has a Green wire with a Yellow stripe. It is in the #7 position of the connector. That is the power to the reverse lights. Good luck!

Hello fast1gt. From what I have seen, none of the bulkheads allow any more than the "normal" seat back reclining. What is "normal", and if that meets your requirements is, of course, what you are asking. Start with www.inlad.com , They have had commercial accessories for the Transit Connect since 2009. I have purchased from them (although not the bulkhead). They have good pictures posted on their website of the various bulkheads they stock, although none of them have anything but very general descriptions of seat adjustments. You have a tough question to answer. Another place to start would be your Ford dealer. Mine has multiple Transit Connects with bulkheads installed. If your dealer has any on the lot, try them out. Good luck.

Hello biker209, my 2010 Transit Connect turns 2900 rpm at 70mph.

Hello Johnyguy. Does "View new Content" on the front page help?

Very Nice!

Hello 2013TransitConnect. Nice post on Masterack liners. If you do not mind my asking, what do they cost? The 4522 Poly Liners go for over 700 dollars. Keep your posts coming!

Ok Timbo. Go to their website and you will see both styles listed under Transit Connect. http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_transit_connect_steel_wheel_cover_f_4447375_c_288.htm http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_transit_connect_2002_wheel_cover_6jx15_steel_f_4367100_c_288.htm

Hello homebrewermike. I may be able to help, but will need further detailed info. Your first problem I do not understand. You need to be more specific about what you have done.For the second problem, do you need +12 volts to connect to your purple/white wire or does it need to be grounded to work? Once I know the answer, I can direct you to the proper connection to tap into.

Hello danbyrambler. Take a close look at the seats on the eBay listing you provided. Even though the eBay seller is in the US, those are seats from a Transit Connect built for a country that drives on the LEFT side of the road! As per the description and pictures, the arm rest is on the left side of the left seat. In the US, our left seat has the arm rest on the right side. Also, as per the picture, the seat belt locks into the left side, our left seat has the seatbelt lock into the right side. You may have found the answer to many forum members who wanted an arm rest for our passenger seat!

Timbo, I started using www.fordpartsuk.com a few years ago and other forum members have also used them for Ford parts that are not carried by our US Ford Dealers, like the two types of wheel covers we are discussing, large outside mirrors, rear door 3rd brake light........ The contact is Trevor, he has been very helpfull. When you order, be specific which type of wheel cover you want. Trevor will send you back a confirmation with the pricing.

Timbo, as mrtn wrote, the wheel caps that cover the center of the wheel including the lug nuts, as in azdamay's post, are held on by snapping them on over the stock wheel nuts. The cone shaped bottom of the stock wheel nuts have an edge around the cone that the wheel caps snap over. You might also be interested in an even smaller solution. Look at my Gallery. I have posted a picture of my center wheel hub covers. The lug nuts hold it on by, once again, the edge of the lug nuts.

Hello Notrannyboy. Welcome to the US Ford Transit Connect Forum. Manual transmissions are not available in the US. For info specific to the manual transmission Transit Connect try the UK Ford Transit Connect site, http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=54 . From personal experience, grinding that stops when shiffting slower between gears usually is a sign of worn or damaged syncros. Good Luck.

Hello charles88. Since you drive on the left side of the road in Malta,if your Transit Connect has the sterring wheel on the right side, your best information will come from the Transit Connect UK website http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=54 . If you are using a Transit Connect with a sterring wheel on the left side, I can help. There are two large rubber gromets on the firewall just below and behind the battery box. I have used both on them to run lighting wiring to my dash. They are large enough for heavy gauge battery cables. The forum members on the UK site can confirm if the gromets are in a similar place on right hand drive Transit Connects. As far as a place to run cabling in the interior from front to rear, there are many places, I have run wiring inside the side panels with out very much difficulty. Good Luck.

mrtn, congrats on the 2012! Did you keep your 2006?

mrtn, US Transit Connects had crank windows available.

Hello gregb. eBay has a seller with the workshop manual on a CD for 20 dollars. Seems a bargin since the manual in paper form seems to go for $180. I would also recommend buying the wiring diagram manual. They are also being sold on ebay. I have not found any paper version of the 2012 workshop manual on either eBay or Amazon, but that is subject to change on a daily basis. I have the parts manual on CD and it has been very easy to use. You can always try your Ford dealer.

Hello jv2937. There are multiple reasons for headlamps to stay on after the vehicle is shut off. it could be the low beam relay, the DRL (daytime running lights) relay, the headlamp switch, the GEM (generic electronic module) or wiring. Without running multiple tests, it would be only a guess to what is causing your issue.

Yangmoua2, at the least, you will need to replace the plug into the blower motor resistor.

Hello Yangmoua2. Although the blower resistor is usually the problem when the fan only works on the high speed setting, you clearly have another issue. The Transit Connect Workshop Manual has multiple tests for your problem (fan only working on high speed), none of them lead to replacing the blower motor. There are 5 tests, one leads to replacing the blower motor resistor, the other four are tests between the blower motor switch and the blower motor to check for bad wiring and tests between the blower motor switch and the circuits it is connected too for a check of the switch itself. You mention the connector that plugs into (what?) is burnt, the blower resistor or the blower switch? That may cause your problem, but a follow up question is why did it burn? The blower resistor gets very hot, but the connector should not burn! There is no heat generated by the switch, at least not enough to burn the connector. None of the above leads to a definite solution, only adds to your knowledge of the problem, possible wiring (connector) or switch and eliminates the blower motor as the problem.

Very nice looking! Thanks for the posting and pictures.

Hello CapnTroy. Depending on your rim width and offset, look at forum member zombiechad's post http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2329-custom-wide-steel-wheels-17x8-5x108-et40/?hl=volvo . He used 225/45/17 tires on 17x8 rims. Zombiechad said he had no error in his speedometer and they did not rub even when he lowered his Transit Connect. Post some pictures when you are finished!

Hello Dave H. As per the Transit Connect Workshop Manual, "The air pressure calibrations for the system cannot be changed to use lower pressure tires than those originally designed and tested for a particular vehicle. If the tires are changed to a lower pressure, the TPMS indicator will remain illuminated until the vehicle meets the original air pressure requirements." It looks like you will be charting new territory unless another forum member can add their experience.