Jump to content


T.C. Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Booner

  1. Booner

    Fuelling the Air conditioning

    I don't get this buffeting with only one window open as I have a couple of roof vents which I keep open about an inch. The vents are located on the rear of the van and are low profile so they don't create any wind noise themselves unless I open them up all the way. They are also bi-directional so I can open one to force air into the van and the other opened the other way to create a draft to pull air out. When closed they are maybe an inch above the roof surface, so are sort of low profile. I'm kind of thinking about putting another pair of them right behind the driver's area where I can reach while driving....... I'm hoping to finally begin working on my build out once the temperatures cool down and am working on an idea where I'll have one fan that will pull air in one vent while another fan will push air out to camping. Oh, the vents have screens to keep the bugs out. And if you remember to close them when you wash the van, they won't leak! I also have a scan guage on my van (left over from my previous full sized van), which gives me real time info on fuel use, amoung other things. At idle, with a/c off and in park, the van burns about a quarter gallon of fuel an hour. Put the van in gear and the drag from the tranny being engaged increases the fuel us to 1/3 gallon per hour. Turn on the a/c at idle, tranny in gear, and the fuel use goes up slightly, from .33 gph to .38 maybe. Driving down the interstate at 70 mph and I'll average 28 mph, put the a/c on and I'll get 26, at least initially.
  2. I think I had my van for a month when I decided to have the glass installed in both sliding doors. The cost was around $800.00 but my insurance deductible is $1000 so I figured I saved $200 or more in avoiding an accident. It was a pita to get a glass company to do it. I finally went back to the dealership and they made their glass company do it. While it was pricey, I have no regrets in doing it. Having the ability to see out of the sides of my vehicle has saved me from an accident on several occasions.
  3. I got my WeatherTech off of Amazon.
  4. On the farm (Michigan), we put a heat lamp under the tractor up against the oil pan. That and a little ether always got them started. Other than the ease of starting, a block heater is nice as you don't have to wait for the car to warm up before the heat is available. You're electric bill will increase a little. The block heaters I've seen are around 1,000 watts or so.
  5. 0I wanted a roof rack to carry the occasional 2x4 or plywood, etc. but didn't want to spend the money required by the after market suppliers. While in my local big box hardware store I came across the aisle that contained the electrical conduit supplies. They had an item they called "UniStrut" it's made out of mild steel and looks like a "u" with rolled over lips at the top of the u. They had another item called "top grip nut" that slides in the unistrut channel then turns 90 degrees to lock into the channel. The wheels began turning in my mind. The unistrut fits into the channel in the roof of my 2015 lwb cargo van and is bolted to the roof by 3/8" bolts through the existing plastic plugs in the roof. The "top grip nuts" allow me to fasten a plate to the unistrut that allows me to add cross bars which can be adjusted depending on what I'm hauling I purchased 2, 10 foot unistuts and cut them at 6 foot for the roof rail leaving me 2, 4 foot lengths for the cross pieces 2 bags of top grip nuts (5 nuts per bag). 4-4 hole steel blocks The cost of all this was $50.00 I then purchased 1/2 inch nuts, bolts, and washers for a total of about $30.00 Time to put this all together about 5 hours I plan on buying one more piece of United and cutting it in half along with more bits and pieces to make 2, 5 foot cross bars The pictures should show you how it all went together. When I'm not carrying anything, it all comes off except for the unistrut that acts as the roof rails
  6. I have a SCAN GAUGE II on my 2015 lwb 250 eng. and if you're concerned about mileage, I would suggest getting one. They're programmable to monitor different engine functions and I have mine set on voltage, gallons per hour, Ave. mileage, and current mileage. I live in central Missouri along the MO river so we have rolling hills but I drive on I-70 a lot where the speed limit is 70 mph. I do not have cruise control and that probably helps a little bit more as i tend to ease off the gas slightly going up a hill ( from 70 down to 65 mph) and once I crest the hill I slightly push on the gas to get it up to a little over 70. Driving in this manner on the interstate, I don't have much of a problem making 28 mpg. Driving on some of the 2 lanes roads I can get 30-32 mpg but then my speeds are between 55-65. The biggest help in getting good highway mileage is coasting. Coming off the freeway, coming to a light, etc. coast; If you have to use the break you didn't start coasting soon enough. Also at idle I found that my truck burns about 1/2 gallon/hour. Putting the trans in neutral drops that down to a little less than a 1/4 gallon/hour.
  7. I don't think a 10 gauge wire is not big enough to handle the amperage. I'm thinking a 6 gauge at a minimum. 4 gauge is probably better. You may want to visit www.battery1234 to get an idea how an automotive engineer did what your trying to do
  8. Booner

    Better Battery

    You can configure your alternator to charge your car battery and house battery at the same time, I wrote a long post on how to do it somewhere on this forum about a year ago. Or go to "Battery1234" for instruction on how to do it. I've also purchased a POD (power on demand) to jump start my vehicle in case of a dead battery. I haven't had to use it on my car but I have on a car at the local Wal-Mart and it started right up. I wouldn't travel without it
  9. Booner

    Anemic A/C?

    Also check what mode you have for the vents. I notice if I have the cash vents and football vents selected, it doesnt cool as well as when just the dash vents are selected. Check you owners manual for this.
  10. Booner

    Aftermarket Speaker question

    On things like connecting speakers I like to solder the connections so they stay right. I can't stand a loose speaker connection and the price of a soldering iron shouldn't be much different than buying a wireing harness. Check out u tube for instructions in how to do it. I'm going to replace the factory speakers with some infinity's in a few days so I can report back after I've done it with my observations. I've got some dynamat-like material I could use on the door too. I've got a hearing problem and tend to listen to my music LOUD!!! So would like something to reduce the sound from escaping the vehicle.
  11. I towed a small uhaul trailer across Kansas at 75 mph and got milave in the high 'teens/low 20's I also towed a small flatbed trailer empty and got milage in the low teens because the tailgate/loading ramp stuck up in the air like a huge sail
  12. Booner

    20160523 111937

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Another side shot showing how unobtrusive the vents are. If anyone asks you about them, just tell them that their an airfoil
  13. Booner

    Mini camper modifications

    A visual story of how I'm converting my cargo T/C into a mini camper
  14. Booner

    Cargo area vent?

    Thank you. Yes I retired at the end of this past March, moved to Missouri and looking for a house here--sold my place in Colorado which should more than pay for a new place here My family is from Missouri. I like the people and the pace of life, and reasonable living cost, the biggest negative for me is the humidity. June-July-August can be kind of rough
  15. Booner

    Leak into passenger footwell

    I've just begun modifing my t/c cargo into a mini camper and in doing so have found humorous holes in the undercarrage that would allow water from under the van into the interior Has it recently rained a lot or have you gone through some standing water? My van is a 2015 and I see yours is an older model so what I'm saying may not apply
  16. Booner

    20160507 161223

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Vents full open with one open to the front and the other open to the rear
  17. Booner

    20160507 161106

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Another side view at minimal opening
  18. Booner

    Cargo area vent?

    I've posted some photos of my vents in the photo section under "mini camper modifications"
  19. Booner

    20160521 142554

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Interior view of vents. Trim has not been installed yet
  20. Booner

    20160507 161056

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Vents a minimum opening from the rear of the van
  21. Booner

    20160507 161121

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Vents full open from the front of the van
  22. Booner

    20160507 130904

    From the album: Mini camper modifications

    Laying out the location of the vents
  23. Booner

    Cargo area vent?

    I've installed the roof vents I spoke of in a previous post and I'm very happy with how they turned out. I'm using a tablet as I write this and will try to post some pictures when I'm done. With vents opened all the way it seems that my left ear doesnt get blasted as bad as it used to until I'm going over 45-50 mph. However at freeway speeds when theyre full open you do hear more wind noise. Close the vents down to their smallest open position and they don't make any noise. I've got the weatherguard wind/rain reflectors on the window and when I leave the Windows cracked open a little along with the vents the van does stay cooler We've been getting plenty of rain lately and with the vents closed nothing gets in. If their open at their minimum open setting still now water Their made from aluminum and I painted them white but the spray can white doesnt quite match The vans color so I'll repaint then sometime in the future
  24. It was really easy to add the Windows to the sliding doors-all it took was $$$$ And a dealor who was willing to work with me. The Windows for the sliding doors were something like $350-$400 each and I ordered them through the dealor, who asked their window contractor how hard would it be to install them. "No problem, just remove the plastic place and glue the window in its place" So I ordered the Windows and in about two weeks later they showed up. I called the contractor the dealor used and they said they wouldn't put them in as I didn't buy the Windows from them!!!!! So I went back to the dealor and told them what their contractor said, and he called the contractor, 5 mins later I had an appointment with the contractor to install the Windows. I It took about 20 minutes to install each window. They used this tool that looked like a vibrating paddle to cut through the glue which holds the plastic pannel in place. Ran a line of glue around the opening and set the window in place. Very simple and I'm very satisfied I did it
  25. Booner

    What is this?

    No problem---really like how you removed the floor plate in the cargo area. I think I'm going to have to do this