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Must be a counter that has a default annual counter. well if you change the oil good . If you do a reset it probably is also good. The plot thickens!

Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere, check all the hose connections to the Intake, Pcv, Brake booster Mass airflow sensor etc. let us know what you find.

Did you scan it?

Glad you folks are OK. It is always good to see the engineers are paying attention. You will have a test in this market to find the right TC . All the best.

I think that the one you are looking at could do the the job, if they set it up correctly. The real difference is how much the Alt will put out at an Idle and how good the windings are able to take the heat. The standard one is able to handle most of the loads at speed. The one your company sells looks ok, but it should be Ok for 495.00!!

I have several Launch Scanners one similar to that one, for what it does it works well is pretty easy to use. The rule of thumb is the more you pay the more it sees!

The front brakes are very large compared to the rear and the load is over the rear. Just ordered the 4th set of rotors and pads for mine, They get rusty and Lumpy around where I live. 124000+ miles and rising.

Check the pulley if very polished it could slip under the first load. Also how old is the battery?

Yes it will. You must be ready for another set of pads!

It is hard enough so they won't be stolen but much easier to change compared to the 2.5 if that becomes necessary.

That is absolutely correct. I am not sure what is in the converter but Ford buried it far enough in the TC to make the converter thief steal the whole vehicle so they would have enough time to get the converter. You folks with the !.6 turbo need to be a little more nervous!

The converter on the 2.5 and 2.0 non turbo TC is part of the exhaust header The location precludes any body with a saws all and a floor jack being able to get any where near it, sleep tight! I suspect the 1.6 turbo is similar but I have not checked it out.

Injectors maybe but not the plugs., I If the clutch was slipping it would rev past 2000. You need to start with a scan tool or forscan! Keep us in the loop, I am not much help as we have no diesels here.

Don is correct about the scan tool. When you drive it does the left disk end up hotter every time ? If it does then you need to take a ride and get the brakes hot and get home and lift the wheel while it is hot to feel if there is drag. if so crack the brake line to see if you get a spurt of fluid and a release of the drag. Because you replaced the hose it would be very rare to get a bad hose, it would point to the ABS unit. If you slack the line to hose connection first you would test the hose also. The plot thickens, keep us posted.

you live in the north east what does the disk look like? Picture of the disk would be helpful.

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What about Barn Doors?

Looks like the sliding doors are short, I might be out.

That is probably correct for most. The only issue is how hard the cooler lines are to disconnect. I pull the lines most of the time. The lines on my TC were enough of a pain that the drain and fill was easier for me , having a lift and a step ladder!

I would be surprised if the vehicle was driven during the flush. The reason for the flush is to get most of the fluid in the converter exchanged. When the last 3 quarts of fluid is added let the TC run for 15 min that will bring the fluid up to check the level.

This will do a good job.

If the temp was 210 or higher the fan would be on, check the switch or temp sender.

I suspect the module that control the ac is stopping you. If you removed the Rear evaporator then you will need to block it off and recharge the system.

If you leave the TC idling does the gauge rise more than normal , When you are driving does the temp rise when you slow down? This is where I say either Forscan or a good scantool would be very useful.

Same here , I have no idea on a solution but is is good to know I am not alone!