mrtn

Probably by using carbon steel blades on glass.

The transmission manufacturer (Aisin) recommends 50K miles for severe service (lots of stop and go, trailer pulling, hills etc.) You can change it more frequently if you like. Use transmission specific low-viscosity oil only: 31256774/31256775.

There is no separate amplifier for the base radio. It's all integrated.

Off topic: jrm223, is that a semi caravan you have there? if yes, what do you use to haul it?

I have read of people retaining the original head unit in the glove box for this exact reason.

Yeah. Will be a VW Caddy rebadged in Europe.

Rodents chewing on wire insulation has nothing to do with the plasticiser used in it. They have always done it since the dawn of cables. Pests chewing on insulation is a known fact. Soy connection is a myth.

You can't delete someone else's thread.

I had mine replaced by an independent garage. Wasn't bad.

Just saw someone using Mondeo (Fusion) parts recently.

No, it's just extremely popular to switch to disc brakes. See it in the facebook group all the time.

Get some transparent "stained glass" vinyl such as https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oracal-8300-transparent-cal# Pick the color matching best your tail light (cracked section) and cover the area fully so it won't stick out. You can even use this to darken the tail lights a bit for cooler look but won't have issues with visibility like you would with tinting. I recommend doing both sides for equal look.

Have you tried the dash light adjuster?

It's an easy job but you'll need a three-seater bulkhead as the middle headrest is attached to it, in addition to the seatbelt and center console.

So it begins: https://www.goodwood.com/grr/event-coverage/festival-of-speed/2022/6/2000ps-ford-electric-supervan-revealed-at-fos/ Videos: https://fb.watch/dRRQn1T3lH/ https://fb.watch/dRRV4rBr6v/

Check motor and transmission mounts. Replaced those several times. There shouldn't be any other reasons for the engine to jerk in its place. Easy to check: open the hood and try jerking the engine back and forth (don't burn your hands, use gloves if the engine is warm). It should move very little and must not feel loose at all. Transmission mount is not that easy to disagnose (being on the far end) but once one of them goes the others follow. However, turning based clunks are always related to suspension. I had something similar happen when the sway bar was worn (not bushings). I had let bushings wear out so much that dirt got in between the bushings and the bar and it wore out so much that the sway bad started moving around under load - caught and relased causing a loud clunk. Did not affect the engine tho.

Correct.

Door sound insulation first, then speakers. I will die on that hill.

Massive writeup, man. Just to clarify for inexperienced readers: the upgraded speakers lack bass because of inadequate amplification, not because the speakers are bad. OEM speakers require much less power to move sufficient amount of air but it's not as responsive and defined as with better speakers.

They figured so after making this ad:

Doesn't work in mine. Don't miss it either. Does work in my other (non-Ford) cars tho.

It'll add up.

Could be worse. A car with 5 years and 20K on the odo will have the worst brakes due to rust damage from all the parking.

There was some difference between the normal 1.8 diesel and the highest powered one IIRC. Join the transit connect'ed facebook group, there are loads of people there who have made the swap.

2-seater's bulkhead is lightweight and can't carry the middle seat belt. You won't pass MOT without the middle headrest if you wish to register it as a 3-seater. Better ask the local officials.