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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/30/2017 in all areas

  1. Headed out to Silverthorne, Colorado tomorrow morning with the van, 2 beagles, and both bikes,,,Going to try out a night of dry camping tomorrow and then check into the hotel Saturday,,,
    1 point
  2. Yes, the blind spot monitoring system is disabled by the trailer module when a trailer is attached. But, you need fully functional trailer lights or you will get bulb failure messages when you turn or brake.
    1 point
  3. Maybe there is another solution. Your factory trailer wiring includes a trailer module (computer). I think the sensors are deactivated when a trailer is connected. Maybe a simple plug-in tester like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MX8AY?psc=1 Will be enough of a load for the module to sense a trailer is connected. I will review the service manual to see what it says about the sensors.
    1 point
  4. A simple but more permanent and drastic solution, AND NOT ONE I WOULD RECOMMEND, would be to cut and cap the power wire to the sensors. I only mention it because I know some people are more willing to go the quick, simple, but harder to repair route than I am comfortable doing. Here's the wiring diagram for my 2015. The power wire for my 2015 is the Blue-White one on pin 5 of the connector.
    1 point
  5. There is a connector for the sensors behind the passenger side rear wheel that you could try disconnecting. That may work to silence the alarm but may give a failure warning. Just guessing here, not an expert. If you do disconnect it, make sure to protect the ends against moisture since you won't have the water seal anymore. Here's some photos of my 2015 showing the connector. The live end of the connector could probably be moved back to the interior of the vehicle through that grommet you see the flat trailer wire coming out of in the photo. You could also remove the sensors from the bumper entirely to protect them, but that would leave holes. Or you cold do a halfway solution and disconnect the wiring only at the individual sensors being triggered if it's just the hitch step in the middle triggering the center sensors and not the entire bumper length triggering them all. You can see the sensor connectors and how they are just held in by plastic tabs in the photos.
    1 point
  6. Nice step bumper Guard. IIRC, the owner's manual lists a rear sensor disabling procedure but it also mentions it isn't a permanent disabling. The section is for when backing up while towing or using a hitch hauler.
    1 point
  7. Boomerwwps you may want to consider using 3/8 inch birchwood plywood for both it's strength and light weight. I used it on an elevated bed platform on a SWB. The platform was built on 2X3 wall studs with minimal bracing. Since I'm not sure about the folded seat strength or weight capacity of them, I'm not sure if you would have to use the studs or if the plywood could be placed directly on the seat backs. If you used a short vertical stud, the studs, bracing, and plywood would be light and easily handled. Either way using plywood would be a good assist in loading and unloading. I would send a pic except I'm in Missouri and the TC is in California with my son. When he gets back I'll show some pics. We mounted two heavy speaker boxes on the floor, facing the back barn doors, six inches from the doors, cut into the bulkhead to mount two additional speakers, and replaced the front door speakers with five inch high end speakers, they fit perfectly. We replaced the alternator with a high amp alternator, ran wiring to the amp and speakers. That TC is like a concert hall...LOL. Despite the high volume and tremendous booms of the base, the computer elements located under the console were unaffected and performance was normal. Despite our good efforts, we couldn't blow the doors off the TC.
    1 point
  8. Chris Pleimann

    Camper box

    A work in progress.....
    1 point
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