zalienz

I have a 2017 work TC with the same mileage and I also have a bad vibration at idle. While a misfire could definitely cause the symptom, I'm more inclined to think weak engine mounts. My spark plugs were replaced at 120k and there was no difference in the vibration. Today's computer systems are very sensitive to misfire conditions as when a cylinder misfires, the unburned fuel goes out the exhaust and can internally melt catalytic converters if it continues. The oxygen sensors will quickly detect this and illuminate the check engine light. If consistent - think dead coil or spark plug etc, the check engine light will flash to get your attention. I have not had my engine mounts replaced, but plan on bring the issue up at my next service interval, which is coming up soon. I'll re-post after a diagnosis.

Today I replaced the 12v battery in my TC. I knew I wanted a high quality AGM and after reading through this thread I was impressed with Odyssey's TPPL technology. I installed the Odyssey PC1200MJT. The battery was interesting, as it has a metal exterior jacket and screw on SAE posts. Fitment wise, it's bang on height and width, but 3-1/2" shorter in length. I ended up cutting a short piece of 2X4 to take up the extra space in the bottom of the battery box. It otherwise fit well and tight. I later found Odyssey recommend the Performance version of their battery that is still a bit short in length but much closer to the factory size. You can see it here - https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm96r-battery-96r-600/ Replacing the battery is not a simple drop in, but as a 30 year automotive master tech, it wasn't especially difficult for me. The pictures in this thread prior to mine are accurate. I don't drive my TC a lot as my company provides me with a work TC so sometimes mine sits for 2-3 weeks without being driven. The OEM battery lasted 5-1/2 years, hopefully this one lasts longer. Ironically the battery in my son's Chevy Volt bit the dust a few days later, and I replaced his with an Odyssey also. So, we'll see how it goes.

All computerized cars use a small amount of electricity to keep their memories alive. The general rule for parasitic draw is 50 milliamps or less. 46ma is within normal tolerances. It shouldn't be an issue unless the vehicle sits for a long time without being driven, usually 14 days or more. It will eventually draw the battery down until it won't start. If you're in that situation, a Battery Tender or other automatic battery charger/maintainer would be recommended to prevent battery discharge.

I'm not sure about a 2016, but my 2017 the 2.5L engine oil drain plug washer is a rubber O-ring that is a part of the drain plug, I've changed my oil 4 times, reused the drain plug, no leaks.

I understand your frustration, but if you love the vehicle, stay with it. I went through the same process in 2016. Ordered in mid May, couldn't get a production date. Vehicle was built in Spain on July 4th, and by the time it was shipped to the US and arrived on the West Coast, I took delivery on Sep 23. It seemed like forever. Ford winds down production of the 2021 models in April/May, begins re-tooling for 2022 models in May/June, begins building in July for Aug and Sep deliveries. That's just logistics for a multi billion dollar company and thousands of employees. Changes don't happen quickly in consumer time. I waited, and got exactly what I wanted, and it was worth it. Still driving the Black Beauty today. Hang in there.... Peace

Nice video, thank you for sharing. I'm not looking for a camper build, but I am considering a ceiling for my cargo van, primarily for looks and insulation. My van is black, and it gets very hot in the back in the summer. I really like the cedar roof, not only functional, but very good looking. Beautiful work!

Love it! Great choice.

Nice! Those multi spoke wheels are a b*tch to clean, but aside from that, they look great!

Hi, and welcome to the forum. I also have a 2017, and I know that the DRL's are an option. It's not likely they came with DRL functionality unless the original owner ordered them with it or the car had an option package with it included. Since you state you have a basic XL, it probably did not come with them. I'm not sure what you saw, but the DRL's use the low beam headlight running at a lower voltage. I also doubt the programming of the key had any affect on this. It's true that if you have DRL's they can be disabled using the steering wheel switches, but it's key cycle dependent, meaning that they will come back on after turning off and restarting the TC. But obviously, you need steering wheel switches to do this. I would search for resources to see what options the vehicle has aside from the window sticker.

Well, I got lucky, the GPS antenna was bad. I used Forscan to pull DTC's, and it displayed B1A89:13 - Satellite Antenna - Circuit Open. I purchased the antenna from Ford Parts online, and a local dealer had it in stock and I received it in 2 days. Dealers only stock fast moving parts, so my guess was fortunate. Navigation and Sirius Radio is now functioning correctly, only took about 30 minutes to drop the left side of the headliner and swap it out. I hope this helps others in this situation. Peace out.

So one day i noticed on my Sync 3 system, the GPS logo had the red circle and a slash through it, indicating the GPS signal was lost. I recently updated the maps and wondered if it was a software glitch, as it was working correctly, until a few days ago. No glitch, suddenly the car is lost on the map and it's all over the place, no where near where I was at. A look at the wiring diagram and it shows the GPS antenna and satellite radio antenna are the same and there is a splitter for the two. I tried Sirius Radio, and bammo it's not working either. I decided to buy a new antenna, it was only $30, and will work on it this weekend after I pull the headliner. Wish me luck, I'll post the results.

The rectangular air filter that fits a 2.5 is a FA-1910, or Ford part number CJ5Z-9601-A. Not sure about the 1.6, but Ford tried to sell me the round filter, and I said no, it's rectangular. Parts guy looked at me like I had 2 heads. Dumb shitz....

My experiences with multiple failed starters leads almost always to the same cause - Voltage Drop. You should do a voltage drop test on the starter circuit, or a technician of your choosing should perform this test. Generally, acceptable voltage drop is 0.1 volt per connection. Anything more than that can stop solenoids from engaging, or burn up the starter motor with low voltage and high amperage. Start with the battery, and then check the cables. This video is a good overview. Good luck!

I did my drain and refill today, at 33,000 miles along with the engine oil and filter change. Fluid came out basically black, but still smelling like good trans fluid. Drained 4 quarts, added 4 quarts of Mercon LV. Specs indicate the trans hold about 9 quarts, so I got about half of it out. I think I will do a 4 quart drain and refill once a year from now on. The TC only gets about 10K a year lately.

In addition to what mrtn said, if the system is low on refrigerant, the low pressure switch will not allow the compressor to engage to prevent damage to the compressor. Unless you have a set of A/C gauges, know how to use them and access to refrigerant, that's a repair shop item.