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So, among the many problems with this particular 2014 Transit Connect is the wipers. They have gone crazy. When you turn on the headlights, they suddenly turn on full speed, and will not quit until you restart the vehicle. BUT when you try to use the wipers separately, they are slow and jerky in operation. I pulled the fuse and they wipers stayed down (#46 under hood box).

BUT I heard a relay clicking like mad, it was the R9 relay which the manual insists is not in use. For a non-existant relay, it was sure trying to work hard. When I pulled it out and replaced #46 , the wipers quit acting crazy, BUT the rear window wipers came on. Also the front wipers, though they started to work, worked weakly.

I have pulled both multi-function switches from the steering column with no effect, I was hoping it was something simple. No joy.

SO! I am open to any help you can give. Suggestions, tips, anything to keep me from pulling out what little hair I have left.

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You need a scanner to work on these vehicles. Everything is controlled by micro computers (modules). A scanner will show the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) that have been triggered by the wiper operation. An OBDII reader is not sufficient. Buy an aftermarket scanner or use Forscan and an ELM converter. 

 

Attached are the first 6 pages of the wiper troubleshooting from a 2016 service manual. Note the DTCs on the last 2 pages. This is where you need to begin.

 

wiper operation.pdf

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I wonder if your dealer can fix it under warranty.  Or at least offer an "after warranty adjustment".  There is no way that this is user error, or something you caused on your own.........unless somebody (you or previous owner) was tying to "mod" the vehicle electronics.  Stranger things like that happen when people unplug harnesses or try to tap into different wiring circuits.

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OK, I got Forscan. I scanned it. Nothing. I really wish that it had found something, then I would know what to fix, but I am shooting in the dark here. SO! Since I am doing surgery on a patient in the dark without knowing exactly what is wrong with it, what should I cut at?

 

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I am helping you shoot in the dark ... by giving you noisy targets, not by illuminating anything.

What I mean by that, I know how the systems I work on, at my job, operate.  When multiple control modules are involved, there is usually a central processor that all those modules connect to.

Like a spider .... with the central control the body and the modules the "knees" on the legs.

 

With all those separate components operating together (badly), there must be a common connection between them all.  A wiring diagram should be able to pinpoint the common point, and that's the FIRST place I'd inspect.

 

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Update relay #9 on the Power Distribution Box is going nutz. I opened the glove box and dropped the lid and also heard a ticking there when I removed the #9 relay from the distro box if that is any help. 

I was able to get wiring diagrams and they come together several times. No shit. In the Steering Angle Sensor Module, AND in the BCM as well as sharing common wire paths in the harness where a possible short could be crossing them. I will start cutting after I get the relay issue sorted out.

 

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Wonder if that might be a similar issue that I had with my Oldsmobile Aurora. The "smart stalk" on that one is known to have corrosion issues that can cause all sorts of weirdness with flashing lights and whatever. GM wanted several hundred to replace it, but I was able to get inside the column and use some DeOxit cleaner on all the contacts - no problem since.

 

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Sometimes all of these electronic issues require an old fashion, mechanical solution.

2 hours ago, sKiZo said:

 I was able to get inside the column and use some DeOxit cleaner on all the contacts - no problem since.

 

 

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12 hours ago, sKiZo said:

Wonder if that might be a similar issue that I had with my Oldsmobile Aurora. The "smart stalk" on that one is known to have corrosion issues that can cause all sorts of weirdness with flashing lights and whatever. GM wanted several hundred to replace it, but I was able to get inside the column and use some DeOxit cleaner on all the contacts - no problem since.

 

 

Same issue as with my Mother-in-law’s PT Cruiser - the multifunction switch was well lubricated but the contacts were still wearing enought to form conductive bridges made of grease and copper dust and cause random lights to remain lit when the ignition was in “0” position.

 

Took it apart, cleaned and applied new grease. Been okay since.

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My Explorer went through 3 multifunction swithches. Some of these parts are just poor quality.  I think a bulk order of bad switches went into the Taurus, Tempo, Mustang, et cetera during the 90's.   Then the dealership sells you a MotorCraft switch that also fails.  

 

i think Ford, GM, and Chrysler are all using poor quality parts.  It saves money.  They can replace it free under warranty.  Then sell you more after the warranty expires.

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