Open 2014 Liftgate from Inside?

[pws5068]

I've setup my 2014 FTC wagon for camping but I'm super bummed to realize that there's no way to open the rear liftgate from the inside.

Is there some obscure lever that I'm missing? If not, has anyone modded theirs to open from the inside? 

I found this in the transit form ... but I'm not sure how to wire it correctly and I'm hoping for a way to avoid cutting trim.

[Fifty150]

On the outside, it looks like the latch release is electronically activated by pressing a button where the license plate light is.  You should be able to tap into the wiring and install a switch.

[Don Ridley]

I agree with Fitty'. The latch is electronically controlled. But you will have to see how it only gets power when the door is unlocked. I will look for a wiring diagram tomorrow.

[G B L]

Does the TC have remote locks if so push the trunk button.

[Don Ridley]

Here is the wiring diagram. The body control module determines when the switch will get 12V.  You can wire another switch or pushbutton in parallel and it will work when doors are unlocked. You could probably connect +12 to the secondary switch and it will open the door, but I don't know if it will affect the BCM.

[Don Ridley]

Better image.

After closer review the door switch provides a GND connection to activate the relay that opens the door. It does not look like you can separately add a GND to the relay that would open the door regardless of the lock/unlock status.

Edited February 15, 2017 by Don Ridley

[pws5068]

Thanks for the info/diagrams!!

3 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

It does not look like you can separately add a GND to the relay that would open the door regardless of the lock/unlock status.

That's unfortunate but not a deal breaker as I can keep the keys handy.

Any recommendations for how I physically connect the new wires? I've soldered/crimp connected wires before but I've usually joined wires at the ends as opposed to adding to an existing circuit.

Should I just cut the existing wires and solder all 3 ends together? (with the battery disconnected obviously & join both +/-)

[Don Ridley]

Since this is a simple connection involving GND connections, I would use any type of crimp on insulation displacement connector.

https://www.zoro.com/3m-displacement-connector-18-14-awg-pk50-801/i/G1141777/?gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgaiYMGVKuZd2R7cF8mAyDKfBdmAhcprkU-U5VZADqvxoC7PLw_wcB

Crimp at the connector on the liftgate switch ( pin 1 and 2) Connect a momentary contact pushbutton switch. 

I may install a switch also since it is easy and makes sense ( as long as the doors are unlocked)

The plastic panel on the liftgate snaps on in about a dozen places. Buy a tool to pop the pins so you don't break any (any variant of this tool should work, the plastic ones are also useful)

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/sg-tool-aid-87810-upholstery-clip-removal-tool/?gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgr3ls_h_Gm3KlHD_ae_Zfm96iI97P22CmXL7k4fVVBhoCkXXw_wcB

[Don Ridley]

I should have noted the schematic is for a 2016 TC

[pws5068]

Hey Don, I picked up the supplies and carefully removed the trim.

I see several harnesses and I believe it's the red/black one here(?):

 

I confirmed that disconnecting it disables the release button & license plate light.

There are several wires on the harness: a row of 3 thin wires, a middle row of 2 thick gauge wires and a single thin wire by itself.

I put a battery tester across terminals 1/2 of the three wires and it illuminated (2 is +) but the door didn't open (it was unlocked).

Close-up of that harness: 

Is this the correct location? Thanks again!!

Edited February 19, 2017 by pws5068
clarity

[DonShockley]

This will be slightly different since it's from my 2015 TC wiring book instead of the 2016 provided by Don Ridley earlier. But here is a diagram of the equivalent connector in my 2015. Also, if you look closely at the connector, there is usually some numerical marking of the pins so you may be able to match the earlier schematic that way.

[Don Ridley]

PWS,

Let's verify the pins. Pin #2 should be +12V, pin #1 should be GND. Put a voltmeter on each to verify.

Unplug the connector and measure the resistance across pins 1 and 2. It should read "open" and will go to zero ohms when you press the door latch. If this is true you can try putting a jumper across pin 1 and 2 with everything connected and the door latch should open.

If you don't have a volt-ohm meter, verify the wires by the wire size in Don Shockleys's diagram.

Pin 2 will go to GND when you press the latch.

[pws5068]

Thanks Don & Don! I'll check and report back later tonight.

Edited February 19, 2017 by pws5068

[pws5068]

I've ordered a basic multimeter & will post back once I've had an opportunity to perform those tests. Thanks guys!

[pws5068]

After some testing, I had success by jumping pin 7 to 2! Going to install the switch this weekend!

[Don Ridley]

Pin 7 or pin 1?

Nice work!

Where are you installing the switch? I thought about putting it up on the shelf above the fuse block but that would require running wires from the liftgate into the van. This is not easy on the front doors because the wires go through a connector at the body bulkhead.... They don't just pass through. 

While you have the plastic liftgate panel off you should insulate it with a thin foam or other noise deadening product like thermozite (available many websites)

http://www.sailrite.com/Thermozite-Thermal-Acoustic-Insulation-36-x-48_2

 

 

[Don Ridley]

I see... You are using in line connector C465 ( I was thinking you were at the connector on the door latch). Pin 7 is +12v. Pin 10 should be GND. It looks like you determined pin 2 is also GND. Pin 1 is the +12v door ajar signal.

 

Edited February 25, 2017 by Don Ridley
corrected pin number

[pws5068]

2 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Where are you installing the switch?

I'm planning to drill a hole into the liftgate trim so that the switch is on door itself. 

That's correct, I've been testing with the C465 connector and bridging pins 7 & 2 unlatch the door.

 

[Don Ridley]

I followed your lead and installed a switch today. I used pins 7 and 10. Pin 2 (instead of 10) would have worked also but it is 12 GA and would not fit the displacement wiring connectors I used. I found pin 7 is about 5.6 V not 12V as I stated earlier.  Either way it is a logic state that goes to zero when the latch button is pressed.  I installed a connector between the switch and the vehicle wiring so I can easily remove the panel in the future.

The switch opens the rear door when all the van doors are unlocked. It will not work when only the driver's door is unlocked. Also, the "trunk unlock" button on my key fob does nothing. Thanks for doing the research on this. This project took less than 1 1/2hours.

This has given me an idea to research if I can install a momentary switch that will turn on all the cabin lights (like opening a door). I think it can be done easily.

[Fifty150]

11 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

 the "trunk unlock" button on my key fob does nothing.

Same here.  

[pws5068]

I've been out of town the past few weeks and I finally came home & finished the installation.

Thanks for the update Don, I also decided to use pins 7 & 10. I just wasn't a fan of the displacement connectors so I picked up a few "posi lock" connectors that feel more secure. I too added some extra wiring length and used a detachable harness in case the rear trim needs to be removed again.

I had some spare reflectix from making window coverings so I lined the inside of the trim. It probably won't do much for insulation/sound, but I figured why not.

The button works great! Thanks a lot for your help guys.

Edited March 15, 2017 by pws5068
Name typo

[Dandytc]

 

On 3/7/2017 at 0:05 PM, Don Ridley said:

Also, the "trunk unlock" button on my key fob does nothing.

 

On 3/7/2017 at 11:47 PM, Fifty150 said:

Same here.  

On my key fob the "trunk unlock" button will unlock the trunk when all doors are locked, but it will not release the latch as one might expect; I still have to walk behind the car and unlatch the traditional way. The other doors will remain locked. The trunk will be locked again when closed, so it only works once. Doesn't yours even do that?

Edited March 15, 2017 by Dandytc

[Don Ridley]

Yes, my key fob unlocks the lift gate. There is no sound when it unlocks so I thought it did nothing.

[4DoorDriven]

On 3/15/2017 at 1:31 PM, Dandytc said:

 

 

On my key fob the "trunk unlock" button will unlock the trunk when all doors are locked, but it will not release the latch as one might expect; I still have to walk behind the car and unlatch the traditional way. The other doors will remain locked. The trunk will be locked again when closed, so it only works once. Doesn't yours even do that?

Hi all, this is my 1st post on here. Been looking to see if anyone can guide point me to the right direction here..we just got a 2014 TC Titanium (3 weeks ago) and already encountered a problem with the liftgate. 

I can lock/unlock all the doors with the key fob but the rear liftgate remains locked. 

This happened for the 1st time last night and this morning it wouldn't open up.  

I let it sit for a while and hit the unlock on the FOB and heard the liftgate's loud click,checked if it would open and sure enough it did. I remove all the plastic panels, thinking I would find some sort of lever to be able to open door from inside, but not the case. 

Tried locking/unlocking a few more times without closing the liftgate and seemed to be working fine. 

Shut the liftgate and now it won't open again. 

I see in this thread you were able to install a switch to open from inside "only if all doors are unlocked, including power being sent to liftgate".

 

Can anyone of you help me figure out if there is no power(which seems to be my problem here) going to the liftgate, how do I get it open?

 

Thank you in advanced for your help. 

 

(Also checked all fuses, none were bad)

[Don Ridley]

The latch and lock are both controlled by the body control module BCM. There is a motor in the latch that may be bad. The "lock" appears to be logic in the BCM that knows when to send voltage to the motor. You can check for voltage but you need the wiring diagram, pin outs and some electrical knowledge. Otherwise, try replacing the latch motor. If power is not getting to the motor, the switch on the lift gate may be bad (pushing the latch pulls the voltage to GND and the BCM responds). Hopefully the BCM is OK.

 

Let me know if you want the wiring diagram.