davidparker

So I did a google search (which I know you already did), no luck. I would post the same on a Ford Fusion forum web site. Good luck, they are really cool. If you find them, let us know.

Congrats to both of you on passing the magic 6 digit, 100,000 mile mark. It give us newbies hope that we made the right decision

Yep, my 2018 is loud above 2. Doesn't vibrate the steering wheel, but definitely sounds like a different fan. I would check if the vibration is the same with the different vents open (i.e. floor, defrost, dash).

Sgsf12: Check out this post. Good info on your search for rear seats and the effort to install. Let us know what you get....

Your a lucky man my friend.

If you search a little bit on the forum, another member has installed a factory hitch after the fact. If I remember correctly, there are two "wings"that insert into the frame that have bolts locking them in that are further in the frame. In fact, I believe you have to remove the cover from the bumper to slide the hitch out. Windguy is correct, if you remove the hitch, there is nothing that keeps the cover collapsing and causing serious damage if you get "rear ended". So, bottom line ImTom, its a project to remove the factory hitch... Sorry dude.

Congrats! Please let us know how you like it and the mods you make. We love pics!

Congrats! I wouldn't worry about the maintenance. These vans are pretty tough overall, and I would much rather have a Gen 1 than the Promaster City. What year is it? and how about a pic? My guess is its white

So it sounds like your looking for a utility van version versus the wagon. But you may want to consider the wagon as well. If the price is right, you get a lot of extras in the form of wiring, windows, etc. And you can always strip the interior and convert it to a more utility type of vehicle.. Either way, I think you will find that locating a good used one (either version) can be difficult. But with a little patience, I think you will find just what you are looking for. I agree with Don. Unless you need the additional height of the roof the later versions are the way to go. However, the 2014's don't have as good a reputation (based on recall history, rating etc) as the 2015 and later. Let us know when you get one!

Just a guess here, but after looking at your pictures, I suspect the tech is just sloppy and lazy. Looks to me like he spilled the contents of the oil filter on your motor after the last oil change. That might explain the crusty residue. This time he didn't spill it as bad, but he didn't clean things up either. Since you mentioned you are OCD (I am too), I would just clean all that stuff up and check it in a week. I suspect it will be fine. Either way, I wouldn't let them touch my vehicle again.

I hear you, mountainman! Living in SC, I have the opposite problem. It gets ridiculously hot here. But once the inside of my cargo van gets cool, it tends to stay that way. More so than my previous vehicle (a pickup truck) or my wife's Honda. I'm guessing that it takes a while to heat or cool that much air, but it can work for you sometimes. Especially, if I can find some shade to park under.

Slightly off topic, but a slightly humorous tale... The technical term for rattles etc. in the auto industry is NVH (noise, vibration, harmonics). When I was a lot younger I worked in an auto assembly plant and we were were having NVH issues with the new model build. Everybody had an different opinion on what was causing it, so they sent the NVH expert down to figure it out. The guy was an older gentleman who showed up with a doctor's case like you see in the movies. I was assigned to work with him and it was a most fascinating experience. I swear the guy was like a witch doctor. As we were doing a a test ride around the plant, he went about his "ritual". First he started with a stethoscope device (like a doctor checks you heart with). He used it in several locations with a couple of different types of attachments. Then he would reach in his bag and grab different types of pads and blocks. He would push on a panel here and a panel there with this pad and that block. After a short trip he proclaimed "Ok were are done here, lets put this up on rack". So we got back raised the vehicle and he pulls out some sort of vibration making device. Places it in a few locations while listening with his stethoscope. He them looks at a couple of engineering drawings and says "Take this fastener out of the door and it should quite it down." We did and it did. Turns out there was a tolerance issue on one of the fasteners so if the panel was placed just right, the fastener would allow or cause the door to rattle. And as you have mentioned, its really hard to know where its coming from and NO one thought is was coming from the door. I'm sure the guy is retired now, but IMHO he was way underpaid. I guess the moral of the story, finding rattles can be VERY elusive!

Welcome! Do you have a TC? What year? What do you use if for? I think you will find this forum really helpful. I have.

Agreed. Much better!

It could be your door switch is stuck. If its not stuck, it could be bad. You can probably bypass it with a wire to just to verify its bad.

I think he may be talking about the electrical socket for the bulb. I think this is the part number F8RZ13K371AA. You can verify it with the other side. If so, just google the part number for a cheaper replacement. The you just have to splice in some wire.

Have you considered vinyl stripes? Same material used for NASCAR car wraps. A lot easier to apply, cheaper, and can be removed later. And if you don't want to do it yourself, you can probably find a "wrapper" near you. https://www.rvinyl.com/racing-stripes

Woot woot! Happy you decided to stay a TC owner. Did you keep new parts you changed? You never know.....

Bobby P, I used the same location for my side view camera for the same reason. I like the 7 inch monitor and since you didn't have the rear windows or backup camera it looks like an excellent solution. Great job!

I haven't had any trouble with the camera moving, but if you push on it hard, it will move. But then, I did not tighten the friction ring in the mount really hard, since I knew I would have to "fine tune" the angle and did not want to have to remove the trim piece again. In hindsight, I would have preferred a set screw type mount rather than the friction ring. I have not had any issues with the wiring. I was going clean it up with some stick-on clips, but just haven't done it yet. Yep I used a grommet and then siliconed after. No leaks (I checked). However, I had the find the "right" grommet. It is a flat heavy duty grommet, not the typical smooth edge grommet.

Yep Fifty, that's the trim panel. I used a flush mount "ball" camera that I could rotate in the mount to get the proper angle and orientation. If I have to replace it, I think I will go with a "bullet" camera next time. The "bullet" style would be much easier to mount and aim. I have loaded pics of the install in my gallery. Here are links to the flush mount camera i used and the one I would probably choose now. https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/safesight-top-ss-442m-rotating-ball-type-cmos-camera.html https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/top-ss-211m-313m.html

This thread wil show you how...

Congrats! If you have noticed most of use are really happy with this vehicle.

I meant 5 inch monitor not camera. I mounted the camera in the trim above the taillight. The 2010 doesn't have that trim piece so you will have to find a different location for the camera. I would probably stay away from the bumper area, since the location would probably be too low to get an effective picture. You may be able to make a clip/bracket to mount it to the lip of the door.

I have. My results were mixed. It works, but the wide angle lens of the camera distorts the distance. For me, it's fine. I just needed to check for oncoming vehicles while I backed out of parking spaces. So the distance is not really an issue. It there is a car in the picture I wait. I would not use it to check for traffic at a "V" intersection, to much distortion to verify the speed of the oncoming traffic.. I mounted the camera next to the passenger window which allows me to quickly switch my view to the window after I get partially out. I really like that location for this purpose. In fact, I like it better than the center mounted backup camera which requires moving my view from the mirrors to the center and back when I'm backing. I used a 5 inch camera. If I were to do it over, I think I would try to find a 7" that would fit. But, I definitely would not be happy with a 3.5". Here is a link to my post. If you want a better picture of the image. I can take another. I just grabbed on real quick one before posting and its not very good, I added detail installation pics in my gallery: