Fifty150

Your decision. About 250 lbs per tire load rating = about 1,000 lbs total difference. The difference between the curb weight, and the GVWR, is about 1,500 lbs. The math is there. OEM specification is to use tires with a combined load rating of about 6,400 lbs, for a van which has a GVWR of about 5,400 lbs. Using a lower weight rated tire may create a complication. The lesser priced tire is also a little more narrow, though that probably wound't hurt much in the grand scheme of things. You probably won't get a blowout the minute you drive away from the tire installer. You should be able to get away with it. 4, 91 load rating tires just about adds up to your van's GVWR. It looks like Amazon only has 3 tires in stock, for the smaller tire. That would be even more interesting. Others will have valid opinions on why you should use the correct tire, if not upgrade. Some will think it's not such a good idea to downgrade. I think that you should buy whatever tire, which has 4 tires in stock. Not mix & match, especially with different sizes.

Strange coincidence, maybe. Confirmed sighting in California. Another red toaster. I'm not worried. He can confront all of the thousands of white Transit Connects in Northern California. Mostly driven by employees. Nobody will know what he's talking about. Or care. Someone might hit him. Or spray Mace. Can you imagine the crew of utility workers on the side of a coned off lane, as he pulls up, jumps out, and starts ranting?

A lot of improvised solutions will work. Plasti-Dip will fill in the cracks and repair the plug. Flex Seal could also solve the leak. Silicone works also. It could be one of these plugs..... https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/plug-blanking-6311541-1

I'm really starting to not like the big sloping windshield, short hood design. Even the valve cover, engine oil fill cap, and spark plugs are hard to access. If you disconnect the ground wire at the body, next to the driver side hood hinge, first; that will allow the battery to slide out further for you to disconnect the negative terminal.

And that is a red color car. Suspect was seen North-bound on Bayshore, in the no. 2 left turn lane, at the corner of Geneva, where Brisbane, Daly City, and San Francisco all border. Last seen turning left onto West-bound Geneva, entering Daly City.

He did advise to clean the terminals?????? Point taken. None of us would disconnect the battery without 1st plugging in a memory save device. Wouldn't want to lose all the presents on the radio buttons.

That could amusing. Like explaining to a child why the grass is green. Most of us missed all of that. Maybe we should invite him back.

Of turn speaker wiring up the A-Pillar, you can install speakers in the overhead shelf or the headliner.

It's in the owners manual

Interesting to see that my driving is at the low end of what Ford's algorithm considers to be normal, and at the high end of severe. My last IOLM was 7,500 miles. In the past, without the IOLM, I always followed the severe duty maintenance schedule. I guess nobody has seen extreme drive cycle, with IOLM activation between 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Without the IOLM, I could have been one of those people who went for 10,000 miles or a year between oil changes. I figure it is a new car with full synthetic oil. No reason why I can't. IOLM says otherwise.

I don't blame you. Lift is a luxury item. It's not the cost of the lift. It's the cost of the real estate you need to install the lift.

So he buys a new car, just so that he can post online in another forum. Just doesn't make sense. And isn't that car just a Jeep labeled version of the Fiat 500X?

You're very lucky to have a lift. How often do you check the transmission fill level?

Sounds like a lot of work. Glad that worked out. Another fix for the information archives. But chances are, the next guy with the same problem, won't do a search. He will just post that he has the problem. And someone else will tell him to use the search feature, without bothering to help him, or even link this post. Just like on every other forum.

Just switching out an 02 sensor doesn't fix the problem. You need to figure out why you are running rich.

Get the codes read. You are in "limp mode"

I think that the screen is wired to a separate harness.

Traditional push bars mount to a solid frame. A unibody car lacks the frame to absorb the impact. You can probably fabricate something just for aesthetics. It will not be functional. Look at https://publicsafety.gorhino.com/ You may be able to adapt one of their products.

Perhaps all of those vans were involved in some sort of front end collision, the headlights were never replaced, and now they are leaking. Just something to consider.

If the wipers aren't sweeping, and the liquid does not spray.....chances are that your switch is bad. Or maybe the connection is bad at the harness. I don't think that the pump and the wiper motor could both have failed together.

While you're fueling up, try not to open the passenger side sliding door.

Is anyone following the IOLM? If so, how many miles does your van allow you to go between oil changes? Or are you just changing oil when you want? How did you determine your oil change interval? Used oil Analysis? Because you've always changed oil every 3,000 miles?

Stay away from the shade tree types. Looks like you can tackle this project on your own. You already have tools and enough knowledge to replace the spark plugs and COPs. You may even find an online tutorial or video, since the same engine is used on other small cars.

I pity the fool.