Fifty150

A Honda Grom would probably be perfect.

Look at the other photos. That center console just sits between the seats, so you can't get to the parking brake. The passenger seat in the forward facing position makes it appear that it is impossible to turn and swivel 180 degrees. Who knows what the guy really did. But he did do a lot of work. Solar panel. A toilet. Microwave. It sure looks like a lot of effort, trying to do more with the van, than most other people. Even with the bungee cord to keep the microwave from sliding off the shelf, and his face next to the toilet when he lays down.........it's better than my van with a yoga mat and a sleeping bag. As I have get up to go pee a good distance away from the van. I want pee and poop at least 50 feet away, and buried.

There are some problems with that photo. That is not a rear facing, swivel seat custom ordered from a dealership. Look at the center console. That armrest and cup holder combination came from some other car. It's actually sitting on the driver's seat. The OEM console has been removed and there are wires hanging out. The OEM seat belt is still on the B-Pillar, with no way whatsoever to buckle it across the passenger's body. The entire seat back obstructs the passenger side door mirror. I can only guess at what an airbag activation would do. You can form your own opinions. I think the guy unbolted the seat, flipped it around to face backwards, and bolted it back on. I can see that it's not functional or safe in any way. And if there is a swivel, it only has 1 inch to turn in either direction. No big deal if he has no passengers. Since the camping build out isn't safe for passengers to ride in either. As a solo camping van, it's probably great for 1 person. A lot of work went into that van. It looks like it's very cozy to live in.

There are aftermarket seats and jump seats which have built in seat belts and headrest. A lot of options. But you will have to decide for yourself if it is safe. Your state's vehicle code may have something to say about it also. But as for function, they will all be functional once you have measured and factored in your available space.

My strategy is to wait until the price goes down, or there is some sort of promotion with discounting. Surely, there must be some sort of holiday coupon coming up. Very difficult to find aftermarket wheels with exact, or close to OEM, specifications. I just don't want to buy wheels which are an inch or more wider in diameter, an inch or more wider, or with backspace & offset being another inch off.

What do you guys think of these wheels? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jnt-aly10010u20n/applications Jante Replacement Wheels ALY10010U20N Wheel Diameter 16 in. (16) Wheel Bolt Pattern (app) 5 x 108mm (8) 5 x 4 1/4 in. (8) Primary Wheel Color Silver (16) Offset +50.00mm (16) Year 2018 (14) 2017 (14) 2016 (12) 2015 (10) Wheel Width (in) 7.000 in. (16) Wheel Material Aluminum (16) Wheel Finish Gloss (16) Make FORD

On what part of the vehicle, do you want to mount the spare?

So just to recap..... M12 X 1.5 thread pitch 60 degree conical seat OEM lug nut should fit most aftermarket wheels which are lug centric and require a 60 degree conical seat. Don't let wheel & tire shops & installers sell you a new lug kit, as your OEM will work just fine with most aftermarket wheels.

You should also be eligible for Amazon A-To-Z Guarantee.

Get a different quote. Go to an independent shop which doesn't have tv commercials, and layers of people above the installer who all need to be paid from his labor.

All electric will give the best power & torque. Full time all-wheel-drive, with a separate motor at each drive wheel, could be the best design for everything from racing, to military. High torque electric motor with output shaft directly attached to each wheel. Computers can control which wheel to spin and which wheel to slow or even stop. Batteries along the bottom of car will provide for a low center of gravity; which will allow even high profile trucks to have better weight distribution and handle better. The engineering challenge is how to power those electric motors. How long will the batteries take to charge, versus how much use that charge is good for. That's where our technology hasn't quite caught up. Obviously, we are spoiled with filling up a gas tank in a few minutes, then having a range of 300+ miles. A diesel or gasoline powered generator to charge the batteries is out. The generator would consume more fuel per mile, in order to create enough power to charge a battery, and then delivery that power to the wheel. You would continue to pollute the air, plus, pollute more air per mile. Solar panel technology is not yet able to create enough energy, as the motors would consume more electricity, and faster than the panels could produce. Fast charging technology is getting better, as well as battery technology. But we still can't travel for 5 hours with a 5 minute fillup. For what we have in technology, electric cars do fill a niche. For some people, they are perfect. Electric fork lifts and golf cars have been around for a very long time. And now, electric cars have been working out for a lot of people. I just wish that I could work an electric car into my drive cycle. Real world circumstances prohibit me from using current electric vehicle technology. I live in an apartment and park on the street. I have no access to plug in charging. I drive around all day, and the time & mileage limit per charge would not last for my daily use. I take road trips up & down the state, and across state lines. Long distance trips are not as easy to plan, as you have to travel from charging station to charging station, and plan a lot of down time for charging. .....and I've really got to wonder if anyone has tried to take a Tesla SUV offroad, or on a 2 week long hunting & fishing trip? In my mind, I'm trying to factor in bringing a diesel generator, and how much diesel fuel I'll need. I can only imagine running that generator all night, in the woods, while camping and having to sleep next to it. What does a generator need? 1 gallon per hour of run time? How much diesel will I need for an overnight 10 hour charge?

At 250,000 - 300,000 miles, what condition do you expect it to be at? What condition is any used car with that many miles. All the wear items have been worn. You, the next owner, will be chasing overdue maintenance and repair items. At 25,000 miles, it's already "broken in". If you are serious about buying a used car, with high mileage, then consider what the repair cost will be to maintain it and keep it running. You are essentially paying for all of the use that the 1st owner got out of it. Maintenance on the Transit Connect isn't all that much better or worse. Usual items will require attention after 250,000 miles. Brakes. Batteries. Water pump. Thermostat. Belts. Hoses. et cetera. The engine could be maintained and tuned up. The big concern is the transmission...... Key is "high mileage". High mileage any kind of car, you don't know what condition it's really in. You can't see inside of the engine or transmission. You just have to weigh the cost of purchase, versus potential cost of ownership. Price it out. What would a new engine cost? What would a new transmission cost? Is it worth it to you, to buy a $10,000 used car; which may cost $5,000 in repairs? Fluid can be added with a funnel through the vent port. The cap lifts off easily. The drain plug makes a transmission service just about as easy as an oil change. Several forum members are performing the transmission service themselves. As a do-it-yourselfer, the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission case makes this car a lot easier to work on than the old fashion method of dropping the pan. There is no pan to drop, as the transmission case splits in half vertically. As for service interval, that's where I've heard a lot of different numbers. My local dealership says 30,000 miles, use the dealership flush machine. FordTechMakULoco on his youtube channel says 30,000 miles, but he doesn't really recommend doing just a drain & fill, or a triple drain & fill. I've also heard 25,000 miles. Then there are people who say to drain & fill at every oil change. I recommend the 3X drain & fill, as I don't like the idea of driving around with contaminated fluid, when you don't have to. The factory service procedure is a triple drain & fill.

This is not happening with the little engines in the Transit Connect. But very interesting. Apparently, there is an oil consumption issue with the 5.0L. If changing the PCV doesn't fix the problem, then the only solution is to install a new engine. Wow! 1st time I've ever heard an auto manufacturer installing a new engine to fix an oil leak. Some cars (Subaru) are notorious for burning oil. 1 quart every 1,000 miles. They used to tell people that an engine burning oil like that was "normal". Ford's standard for the 5.0L is 1 quart every 3,000 miles.

I believe that the Transit Connect alternator is about 150 amps. Or something like that. Use a battery isolator.

Post a bad review of the item. Lesave negative seller feedback. Then contact BBFLY and ask for a refund.

At least your dealership is being proactive, and doing something about it. They could just as easily blow you off, and do nothing.

Or someone just drives a lot of freeway miles - as opposed to stop & go traffic. If I drive for 4 hours, go 300 miles, without tapping the brakes at all......it's better than driving 300 miles and stepping on the brakes every 25 feet to travel a car length at a time.

Absolutely correct. The only thing that the tint film will do, is maybe hold onto the glass to keep it from collapsing completely, if a large enough object strikes it. In theory, if an object breaks or shatters the windshield, the tint film will be like a big piece of tape holding all of the glass together - maybe. As opposed to shattered, shards of glass going everywhere. It will make for easier cleanup.

You're doing this yourself? It's a new car. Your insurance should take care of it. Go to your local dealership's body shop. Every dealership has a collision repair shop. Ask for a quote. You can try to source the parts yourself from many of the online sellers. You should be able to search the part no. on search engines, and come up with the correct match. Maybe even source a used auto part.

Go to a different insurance company. Explain your scenario. See what they have to say. You may end up with a better policy. Or the other agents will quote you a lower premium just to get your business.

Maybe you can hire a commercial transport company, and their insurance will cover it all.

You need a computer diagnostic. Datalog a test drive to see what's going on inside of the transmission. And it wouldn't hurt to check the fluid. Maybe even exchange the fluid. Fresh fluid, filled to correct level, could be all it needs.

Which filter are you using? Is everyone sticking with MotorCraft FL-910S? Is anyone using a higher priced filter like K&N, Wix, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, aFe? Are there bargain hunters who are buying bulk package, shop grade oil filters? In case anyone is interested, even Amazon has shop grade filters at a very low cost. I think that shop grade filters are fine. Thousands are installed, every day, by lube shops across the world. The lower cost filters are suppose to meet ISO standards. And if they were so bad, that they are causing engine failure, then at least 1/4 of the cars on the road would be failing on the side of the road. I get it. Some of the more expensive filters, are simply better. Silicone anti-drainback valves. Thicker wall canister with higher burst strength. Higher integrity and better designed bypass valve. Higher strength springs. Crimped pleats. Metal end caps. Synthetic filter media. More filter media. More pleats. Stronger cores. All of these factors make sense in an application such as a high performance engine. I'm driving a Transit Connect. Naturally aspirated. Low compression. No turbo. No supercharger. No direct injection. Nothing special. For me: I do not drive under extreme conditions. Not racing. Not towing or hauling heavy loads. Not driving at wide open throttle. No extended oil change intervals @ 15,000 or 20,000 miles with Mobil1 or Amsoil. No reason why a lower cost filter will not last for a OEM specified oil change interval. Look at the ISO gang. Don't you trust them to maintain standards? An old school gimmick, which I do fall for, is putting a couple of magnets on the filter. Don't know if it's actually doing anything. But I don't think it hurts. Plus, I already own refrigerator magnets that aren't doing anything else for me except holding up paper menus from Chinese food delivery joints. Even if you had to go out to buy a magnet, what do they cost? $0.50? Fifty Cents. From photos of cut open filters found online, it looks like the magnets attract some of the sludge material, holding along the wall of the canister, which will prevent that sludge material from clogging the filter media. But I don't know. I've never cut open any of my own filters. I'm not spending $75 on a tool to cut open a $2 filter. Same way I won't spend more on a used oil analysis, than it cost to change the oil.

@ 5,000 miles, I'm always in angst. Do I trust the Oil Life Monitor? Should I wait for the dashboard message to change the oil? Or should I just change the oil? In theory, if the IOLM activates every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, I change the oil 2 or 3 times in 20,000 miles. As opposed to 4 times, every 5,000 miles. So what do I save? Less than $20. ABout $15 for 5 quarts of oil, and $2 on a filter. After 100,000 miles, I will save $100! Yippie Kai Yeah! It's like with spark plugs. Use (every expensive) nickel anti seize? Or don't use any, as most spark plugs supposedly do not require it anymore? Adjust the gap? Or use the plug as is, out of the box, as most spark plugs are supposedly pre-gapped and you could damage the electrode when you adjust the gap? You just can't win.