Fifty150

Install LED lamps which have a lower amp draw. Lights will still be on. But the amount of electricity used will less than half. Most of the 3 watt and 5 watt lamps can be replaced with LED which only require about 1 watt or less

Install LED lamps which have a lower amp draw. Lights will still be on. But the amount of electricity used will less than half. Most of the 3 watt and 5 watt lamps can be replaced with LED which only require about 1 watt or less

Nope. It can be done. There's 1 way to do it. You have to get a software update. Then the computer can be reprogrammed. While you are already at the dealership, let them do it. Unless you enjoy doing it yourself. Unfortunately, that's step 1. I gained 3 horsepower, and now get 36 MPG

Follow the lead. Copy from others. A little imagination can put these little cars over the top. Having a shop with a lift and tools helps. But so much can be done at home.

High beams and signal lamps do not turn on either.

In some of last decade's Fords, there was a little module under the dash which controlled the little flap which directed the direction of the flow. In some cases, the little door was stuck. Today's cars are probably computer controlled. And the little door can still be stuck. Or just a faulty dial switch. Maybe a bad connection at the wire harness.

Costco is a good way to buy a car without the hassle. The worst part about buying a car is the hassle of haggling. What else do you buy, that you have to haggle pricing? I can't imagine going to the grocery store, and negotiating a quart of milk. Unless you enjoy asking, "here's $400Billion, now what are you going to do for me?". What moron country hands out billions of dollars, without any return on investment?

And keep dirt, sand, grime, road salt, mud, pet hairs, and flu virus out of your hubs.

Really cool how you are doing so much to get the look you want.

It's an open valve, which closes with hot fluid. Reverse of thermostat, which is closed, and opens with hot fluid. Pressure and gravity will return most of the ATF, bypassing the cooler, back to transmission. Some fluid does flow in the direction of the cooler, but not as much. Hot fluid closes the valve, and all ATF has to flow up through the cooler. Theory of the heat exchanger, including when transmission line goes to radiator, is that a cool fluid helps to dissipate heat from the hot fluid. ATF lines always run across the lower temp side of the radiator from top to bottom, or along the bottom, since heat rises. The coolant from the overflow tank is cooler than hot ATF. Coolant carries heat into the heater core, which is also a little radiator, where heat is dissipated. I don't think the cooled radiator fluid can really warm up ATF.

Will your dealer give you a new van for the mud on your mirror?

From what I recall, different LED are available to fit that socket. Some LED are brighter, some have brighter chips, some have more chips. Something like this should work. It will be very bright, all the time.

You could just add a brighter LED bulb.

The seats are in very nice condition. Now you can add windows, insulation, power ports, rooftop air conditioning, and a refrigerator.

I wonder why it was just sitting on the engine.

Exactly. Compared to the Econoline and Express vans, Transit Connect is a dream. But it's still a commercial vehicle. Not a luxury car.

How long are you driving? How far are you going? What is the ambient temperature? A lot of factors. Then there could be a mechanical cause. They're multiple safeguards against overcooling.

The dash light is on because you are using the spare wheel. It doesn't have a sensor. Your OEM sensors in the black steel wheels may be fine. You may not need to replace them. Check them out first. TPMS sensors can be installed on the silver wheels. Motorcraft and aftermarket parts are available. Sensors can be triggered by letting air out, with a special tool, and allegedly a magnet. There are videos online you can view. The car will only read the sensor trained to that wheel position. It won't read 5 sensors and be confused.

The needle is not accurate and indicates no exact temperature. Don't worry too much about it. Listen to the idle. Look at the tachometer. When you start the car cold, the idle will drop from 12XX to 8XX RPM as temperature reaches 100 Fahrenheit. This is very fast, compared to cars with old technology. At or about 150° F, the car goes from open loop to closed loop, and idle reduces to around 7XX RPM. That needle is probably now where it indicates that you are okay - in the middle. If you really want to fixate on the issue, set up some gauges with real numbers, and you can look at the temperature as you are driving. You will also find that motion creates adequate airflow through the radiator, and the electric fan doesn't turn on much.

Good strategy. Other forum members have considered it. Same as dropping the pan in the old days. Nobody did a "triple drop the pan". Idea is that you can refresh the fluid every oil change. Fluid will be in better condition than doing nothing at all.

Sometimes that has to do with pressurized flush machines. Sometimes the new fluid detergents loosen so much of the built up sludge, that the sludge moves to a different part of the transmission and damages it. With a lot of those old transmissions which have never been serviced, you are on borrowed time. Those transmissions should be rebuilt. If you take them apart, clean out the sludge, then reassemble with new parts..... it's almost as good as new. Except that nobody wants to spend money to rebuild a transmission which is still running.

I agree. Do it once, and the only thing that happens is the fresh fluid you just added, will be contaminated by the larger volume of the old fluid. The most effective way is to use the machine connected to the cooling and return lines. No member of the forum has done it at home yet. But it's possible to disconnect the return line to drain until fresh fluid is coming out. There's a special tool for the fitting. A little more work. Those quick connect fittings are not easy to get to. You will need about 2' of hose to attach to the return line.

There's a filter. You will not be changing it. It's inside the transmission case. The transmission has to be removed, and split open in half, in order to change it. No worries. The filter is just a screen. You will be fine as long as you are changing the fluid.

Maybe a misprint. Get low viscosity fluid. An OBD II reader and free software can efficiently do more than you need. You no longer have to buy $$$$ scanner which a professional uses. Many applications allow your cellphone to display transmission fluid temperature. 10 miles may, or may not, bring the fluid to correct temperature. 10 miles will ensure that the transmission is warmed up. The fluid is warm, and viscous, and will freely flow when draining. I say that because my 10 miles commute usually ends with ATF reading 150 - 175.