Fifty150

Greetings. Look forward to seeing you on the road.

For so many years, I drove around in commercial cargo vans, wishing I had an interior, with seats, and some insulation. Now, I wish I didn't have all that interior. Panels and headliners get in the way when you are doing modifications. Just imagine if you had a headliner, interior lights, and wiring sandwiched between the headliner and roof. What a pain it would have been to remove all that stuff, since the 3rd row interior light and wiring harness would be just about in that same position, and you can't run the risk of cutting the wiring. There there's making the cuts into the headliner, and sourcing & fabricating trim panels to fit in with the headliner.

I think there are a couple of members here in The SouthLAnd. If you were up north, I would make an offer.

With all of this camping, has anyone installed a light bar?

Those strip lights can also be wired up to strobe. Then you can mount them on the windshield and back window for warning lights.

Showers are only for those who care about hygiene. I've been on motorcycle rides with guys who only cared about drinking beer, and pissing........and they smelled like it too. You try not to make a habit out of smelling outlaw bikers.......but with some of these guys.......you're not tough enough until you stop bathing. It doesn't matter that you can hold your own in a bar fight, and you've stabbed more people more people before lunch, than some people do their whole lives. You're still a sissy because you like to keep clean. Honestly, I can only handle so much brotherhood when my brothers stink like rotten fish and urine. Darn it all with all the hugging and kissing, just because you have the same patches sewn onto your jacket.

Even funnier that on my truck, I have no problem with bolting on a push bumper, off road light bar, nerf bars........only to take great pains in taking apart my factory light housings to hide my flashing emergency strobe lights. Sure, the off road lighting and gear looks normal on a pick up truck. But don't let anyone catch on that it's an unmarked response vehicle. So the flashing lights and siren speaker are hidden. Even my sister has a bull bar and LED light bar bolted onto the front of her Honda......thanks to my brother-in-law who thought it would be funny to do that to a soccer mom grocery getter.

I get it. Some guys would rather not have all sorts of extra lights bolted all over their car. Only guys with trucks and Jeeps bolt-on accessories.....winches, push bumpers, lights, nerf bars, et cetera.

Vinyl is good. Easy to clean. And you won't cry over it when it rips or gets a cigarette burn. Plus, pleather, naugahyde, and vinyl gives you that 70's feel.

I get it. You don't want to stick it on. Otherwise, Beta Don\s suggestion would have been great. Dynamat is an excellent product.

A lot of those RGB sets come with a remote control for your "party in the back".

http://www.nauticaltropical.com/store/Portholes4.htm

Imagine crushed velvet. Blood red, lavender, or purple paisley. Like a rolling brothel.

Imagine a porthole. Of course, if you go the maritime theme route, you will also need to install a periscope.

Sounds like it's time to raise the hood, and do some troubleshooting. You will need a factory service manual. Electric fans on modern vehicles are turned on and off by the vehicle's computer system. The computer system monitors the vehicle's sensors to determine when the fan needs to be on. The problem can be anything from a bad sensor, to a loose wire, and as you've guessed, a bad fuse. The fan relay could be bad. The problem is rarely mechanical, i.e. a broken fan. But that could be your starting point. Apply 12 volt direct current to the fan, and make sure that the fan works. Then it's time to carefully check all connections and test the sensors. I worked on a car where the actual mechanical thermostat was stuck. Simple. The spring loaded mechanism was corroded and stuck. The thermostat wouldn't open. None of the coolant was able to flow. The sensors for the fan were inline with the cooling and return lines. Those sensors never saw any temperatures high enough to turn the fan on. Of course not. The hot fluid was stuck in the engine block, because the thermostat never opened. Of course, you might just get lucky and find a loose wire or a corroded harness connection which could be easily replaced. Or maybe the fan is actually broken, and you could just drop in a new fan.

In my 2016, the LED headlights are working without issue. But I do not have a Canadian model with DRL. I believe that the DRL are controlled by the BCM (body control module). If I recall correctly, there was another thread where the DRL was discussed.

How about just mounting extra lighting. Get one of these light mounts which slip behind your license plate, and attach with the license plate screws. Them use any lights you want.

https://smile.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Extremely-Chipset-Interior-Courtesy/dp/B0186P1MUW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1506313665&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=w5w+3030+led

Replace them with LED lamps. It will make a big difference. I replaced all of mine with red LED, to preserve night vision, and gives the interior more of a 70's shagging wagon ambiance. You could also pick up a couple of 5 meter LED light strips in any color that you want, and just run them on the same circuit as your existing interior lamps. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145YY9IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1

My vehicle does not have daytime running lights, so i did not encounter this issue. I am sorry. I don't know anything about HID kits. When those came on the market, they were just not affordable. Then LED kits came along, and LED kit pricing dropped to a point that I was comfortable buying them. But from what i recall, HID kits come with a ballast of some sort, which is inline between the OEM harness & HID lamp, which is suppose to bridge the chasm. Didn't you get a lighting ballast in your kit?

LA traffic is.....words cannot describe LA drivers. If you don't have to, don't drive in LA. Visiting? Take a cab. Or is that what people say about NY?

Maybe you could also think along the lines of upfitting a cargo van into a prisoner transport vehicle. Build a cage with a locking door, benches, and seat belts. Little locking cubbyholes for storing extra belly chains, shackles, et cetera. Perhaps design the front cabin to be a little roomier by moving the bulkhead back so that the prisoner cage is in the 3rd row area, and the 2nd row area is used to accommodate equipment such as fire extinguishers, flares, jump start power pack, first aid kit, shotgun, et cetera. Prisoner comfort is never a consideration, so you wouldn't need more than a pop-up roof vent. Think marketing along the lines of private prisoner transport companies. Yes, along with private, for profit, correctional institutions, there are private, for profit, prisoner transport companies that extradite arrested persons across the country. And just like private security companies who will put flashing lights on compact cars for parking lot patrols, private prisoner transport has to have fuel efficient vehicles that they can drive across the country. A Transit Connect could be extremely efficient in comparison to transporting one fugitive over 1,000 miles in an Econoline E-350.