Fifty150

Those little amber LED that I mounted onto the same plastic trim panel are for the same purpose. They illuminate solid as a side marker when I turn on the yellow beam on my light bar, and also strobe flash in yellow when I activate the light bar's strobe flash pattern. I typically flash them when backing into parking spaces, backing into garages, or backing into oncoming traffic if I am parked at a 45 degree angle with my front end against the curb.

The amber turn signal lights which I use do not hyperflash. There are enough 3030 SMD to draw electricity equivalent to the halogen lamp load.

Install should be simple. Different forum members, including myself, have used various LED lights. All with different results. I've never used that one. Don't know if it will work out for you. My own experience is that most of the lower price point LED lights do not last very long. They tend to overheat, melt, and burn out. One of the things to look for when buying LED is which type of LED are they using. Some are brighter. There is a different energy to lumen ratio for each type. COB, SMD, et cetera. And with the SMD, there are many sizes, and they all give a different result.

Based upon my driving style, and driving conditions, MPG has always been bad. Most of my driving is in stop & go traffic. Even the freeways around here are stop & go freeways. You just sit there, moving 2 car lengths ever few minutes. The AC is always on. San Francisco is only a 7 X 7 mile city. If I get on the freeway at all, it is only for about 3 miles of bumper to bumper, stop & go traffic. Very seldom do I drive on a freeway, at freeway speeds, for any distance which will allow me to get HWY mileage. My mileage results indicate that my vehicle is stopped and idling, more than it actually goes.

I used this for the brake light: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/SUGERYY-Yellow-Lumens-Chipset-blinker/dp/B071JBDTLG/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1511860112&sr=8-22&keywords=7440+amber+led

WindGuy, Once you go through the trouble of taking the rear lamp housing off, even though it''s only 2 screws, you might as well switch out all of the lights. These worked for my rear turn signals. No hyperflash. Plug and play.

Shipped

More of a pain in the a** with a wagon. Interior and headliner obstructs access.

Mount lights on the van. I've tried a couple of different models. I keep going back and forth with it. I'm still not sure which one I like better. So I keep switching them around. Ever thought about mounting lights where the hood meets the windshield?

For the exterior parking lamps, that stay on all the time when the headlights are on, I like this style:

I bought 50 of these for $6.99 on eBay. They are not that great. But the price was right. So I used them for the interior lamps. You are right. These will burn out if you have them on all the time.

And just in case anyone is interested in what this looks like on a car,......a 52" light bar can fit across the roof of your Transit Connect. It just takes a little creative mounting, and some fabricated brackets.

williarty, don't mind the kindergarten drawing.....but the light bar can easily be wired with a 15A fuse, a heavy duty toggle switch, some 16 AWG wire, and grounded back to the battery. But just in case, refer to a wiring chart to be sure that you are using the correct size wire for your wiring run.

williaty, What I did with my pickup truck, because I didn't want to drill into the roof, was attach the light bar to a couple of magnets. That way, I can take it off when I'm done. Since I live in The City, and park on the street, I don't have to worry about someone stealing the light bar off the roof of my truck. The mounting brackets are bolted onto magnets, then sprayed with Plasti-Dip. The wiring is simply soldered onto a 2 pin, waterproof headlight harness/socket/plug. In the case of the light in the photos, I used size H10, because I happen to have had the parts, and because H10 is also the same size as the OEM fog lights on the F-150. On the Transit Connect, my lights are connected by a different type of waterproof connector. You can simply solder your wires and heat shrink them.

The Philips and the Sylvania are the best built, and have the best warranty. They are some of the most expensive. But that does not make them the brightest. The brighter lamps will be the ones sold by a Chinese company, and fulfilled by Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/LUYED-Extremely-Chipsets-Reverse-Brightest/dp/B01LX4FMD1/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511500193&sr=1-3&keywords=w16w+3030

My Transit Connect is a body wagon. Sometimes a booty wagon. I only move people. Dollar for dollar, it is one of the least expensive vehicles that seats 7. With the folding seats, you can configure and reconfigure any way you want. Mine sees passengers in wheelchairs, and like you will be doing, hauls little ones in car seats. The air conditioning has worked well, even with heat in the 90's. And like every Ford I've ever driven, the heater puts out plenty of heat, even in winter months, great head room and leg room. Very nimble in comparison to F-Series pickups and Econoline Vans of yesteryear. As far as bells and whistles, leather seats, a quiet cabin, smooth ride, high fidelity sound system.......luxury and comfort come in vehicles that cost twice as much. I have a truck for hauling and towing. My Transit Connect has never hauled or towed. But I have not had any issues, with using the van as a passenger vehicle.

I installed amber lights onto those plastic trim panels, on part that faces to the side (not rear facing), and they turn on with my fog lights. In my state, you're allowed to have red or amber side markers. I also installed an LED light on the plastic trim panel of the lift gate, which turns on with my backup camera. You could always install a work ligh on the roof. Or simply upgrade your reverse lights with LED.

You have a tractor too?

Weird. I got an e-mail advising that you sent a message. It had a link. Sorry. When I clicked on the e-mail link the first time, all that I got was:

55" X 5" X 4" 8 lbs

I will measure and weigh it when I get home around midnight, Pacific time zone.

Who wants to come get it?

The main problem is that all of the weight is on 2 little screws, which are only meant to hold a license plate. With all of those extra holes, I could easily add a few more nuts and bolts to secure the piece and support all of the extra weight. And with the front end being mostly plastic, There are plenty of places that I can drill, without worrying about rust down the line. With my pickup truck, the light bar is mounted to magnets. This allows me to simply tuck the wiring behind a trim panel when I'm not using the light bar. For daily driving, I don't have my light bar mounted onto the roof. When I know that I'm using the light bar, I stick it on the roof and connect the wires. For my wiring, I simply used a couple of 2 pin headlight sockets & plugs. It plugs in easily, is waterproof, and I can just as easily unplug it when I don't want to use it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J4TQTF/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAJ4X3L5NPN8F No tricks. No gimmicks. I have it. I don't want it. I'm giving it away. If you're willing to pick it up from me in San Francisco, CA, you can have it for free. If you can prepay the shipping label, e-mail it to me, I will print it, stick it to the box, and send it off to you. Or if you have a UPS account, I think that you can order the shipping, give me the tracking number, and the UPS facility can print the label and attach it. I'm not quite sure, since I just don't ship things across the country I suppose I could also accept PayPal for shipping + PayPal fees, but I really don't want to take money from anyone. Best would be local pickup. I meet you somewhere in The City, like at a police station for your safety and mine, and simply give it to you. I am not a seller. There is no warranty. I got it from a friend for free. This item has never been installed. I was originally planning on installing this onto my truck, but changed my mind. Now, I am giving it away to whomever wants it. Or this will go to the donation bin at my local nonprofit thrift store. What's wrong with it, right? I do not have any of the hardware. You will need to fabricate your own mounting brackets. You can get pretty creative with whatever you find at the hardware store. But it looks like Amazon.com has a universal fit mounting bracket: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01CQWFRUM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1 There is no wiring harness. But that is simple enough. You simply need an inline fuse holder, a toggle switch, a relay, and wire. A 15A fuse should be sufficient. This light bar has 2 rows of LEDs. One row is a low beam, which is suppose to be used for daytime running lamps. It really projects no lighting onto the road, and is only meant to make you visible. This feature does not work. The other row of LEDs, which is the high beam function, does work. The functioning row of LEDs is extremely bright, and lights up the night. My test indicates that it operates at just under 120 watt, which is about a 10 amp draw on your 12 volt system.