mrtn

OW! Nice! I may take a hint here for my next wrap, if it's ok

There is no fuel economy increase using higher octane fuel if your engine is not specifically tuned for it. Timing is not an issue, your compression rate, cam geometry etc are the issues. You can not change those by analyzing the knock or the lack of it. There's also no difference in fuel cleanliness, this is just a fuel quality issue. Slower burning rate of the higher octane does not have any effect here.

No it doesn't. The transmissions are reliable enough and there are hardly ever any leaks so the dealer can check it when servicing it. Back in the old days it was completely different.

Bejesus, it still happens? My '96 Taurus did exactly that :D

You may have had a loose fuel cap.

Exactly, unlimited data.

Most car components have gone metric for a while ago. You don't really have any imperial parts in even American cars.

In podcast era, why? (I'm not being sarcastic here)

Yes I have. I'm on my second set of aftermarket speakers. OEM speakers are standard single paper cone units with limited frequency response. First I threw in some spare 5x7" 3-way speakers, had to do some door frame cutting as they didn't fit at all. The rims on those blew a few years ago, so I bought a pair of powerful OEM size GAS-branded 2-way speakers, fixed the sheetmetal to bring it back to factory size mount. Less punch than on the 5x7s but still much better sound than the OEM. I run an aux amp (2x35W) to drive these but for lower listening volumes the quality difference is there even with the factory head unit. Nowadays I only listen to podcasts and no music, so it's all good. Naturally, I insulated the outer sheetmetal with tar mat while the door cards were off.

Sound insulation with a tar mat is a cool weekend project. Makes a difference. Could also replace the speakers with some quality units while you're at it. That is, if you are into tinkering with your car.

It can easily handle a metric ton (2200 lbs), trust me, I've tested

Living in the rust belt, mine's approaching 9 years and there's plenty of smooth surface rust on the underbelly but no penetrating rust anywhere. The frame is pretty well designed in that sense.

It should reset itself after driving for a while.

Or a bad tie rod end, not enough to clunk but enough to wobble.

I'm 6'3" and I find the driver seat thigh support a bit weak, how do you feel?

here: http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=148920&p=1249370

I have read about such plans before and it usually gets stuck behind the impossible bureaucracy you'll face. The diesel engines are not compliant with the US emission requirements, which I have never understood how a 10 mpg truck is and a 50+ mpg van is not. If you were to go this way then there's zero point of importing it from UK as they have RHD. Pretty much all other European countries have the TC in LHD.

The reservoir is hidden over the front wheel. You may only have a leak in the tubing towards the nozzles. Spark plugs don't cause trans sputter, engine sputter is likely.

You have 20,000 to 30,000 km (12,500 to 18,750 mi) oil change interval on most new cars in Europe now.

The gas fumes in the tailpipe would ignite, so, no, it was not gasoline.

It feels narrower and the driver's seating position is really upwards, like sitting on a bar stool. Overall feeling like an Asian fish cart.

Why would you want that 6000-series radio, it's not good at all. For factory look, yes.

You should really force Ford to consider a diesel in the US. I've been getting 40 mpg of diesel in urban driving most of the time.

Nice, I've grown to like the SWB model.

You'll have more luck in UK forum, Americans don't have a manual TC at all.