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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/21/2019 in Posts

  1. Eddy Kilowatt

    2015 TC Longevity

    16 hours ago, Osco said: 115,000, first transmission flush, old fluid came out looking just like the new fluid.. Shifted exactly the same after. Flushed the cooling system, Still running original factory brake pads front and rear... Yep you read that right. I think there's a big diff in tranny wear between town-driven and highway-driven TCs. Aside from the clutch wear of going through the gears, 6F35s trannys do some monkey business with the torque converter clutch, allowing continuous slip in 4th-5th-6th below 50 mph (pretty much anytime below 1500 rpm) and also allowing slip on every on/off throttle transition, apparently for driveability reasons. Driving around with ForScan set up to monitor torque converter slip will show this stuff happening. The black fluid that results is from the carbon converter clutch, and then causes valve bore wear and further issues. The vans that are racking up 60k+ per year on the other hand are spending most of their miles at highway speed with the torque converter clutch solidly locked and the trans fluid staying clean (and any ferrous gear wear particles grabbed by the magnet inside the trans).
    1 point
  2. Osco

    2015 TC Longevity

    115,000, first transmission flush, old fluid came out looking just like the new fluid.. Shifted exactly the same after. Flushed the cooling system, Still running original factory brake pads front and rear... Yep you read that right.
    1 point
  3. Osco

    Tire Pressure

    If I run more than 41 psi in my rears, (Door Say's 44) in my 2015 LB XLT wagon I'll burn out the center treads In No time. I run light with the third row seats out, 40 psi in the front and 41 rear year around with regular 5,000 mile rotations to get even tread wear...
    1 point
  4. mrtn

    Center Bore Diameter

    0.1 mm not 1 mm. That's literally paper thin. 0.1 mm = 0.0039".
    1 point
  5. How often any vehicle needs new brakes is 90% a function of the way it's being driven - Most people maintain their desired speed right up to a stop or corner and then use lots of brake to get slowed or stopped. Others take their foot off the gas 100 yards sooner and gradually slow and need to use much less brake. Braking hard while going uphill is a real waste of energy, but I follow people who do it every day - They never seem to figure that just letting off the gas sooner, the laws of physics will slow them down for free. Many times I catch up to them about the time the light turns green and I never had to touch my brakes at all Friction braking is the act of turning the kinetic energy you paid for getting up to speed into heat . . . . and poor gas mileage . . . . and frequent brake jobs. There are more efficient ways to slow down Don
    1 point
  6. G B L

    Wheel Size Question

    On every level how the car looks and makes you feel is the most important thing for a large percentage of the worlds automotive customer!
    1 point
  7. Fifty150

    Wheel Size Question

    Obviously, you guys don't like stickers either. I want to believe that some of these kids know that stickers, wider wheels & tires, a spoiler........none of those things add horsepower. I think most of them do it because they like the way it looks. I remember when people installed body kits to make their car look lower to the ground. Then every steep driveway and speed bump destroyed the expensive body kit. Same way kids do "home made" lift kits which are just plain stupid & dangerous. Despite what a lot of people think is stupid, dangerous, useless.............there's a huge aftermarket for auto parts which are stupid, dangerous, and useless. Mind boggling. Unless that teenager is an engineer and able to manufacture his own parts - he's buying those parts. And somebody is producing them in volume.
    1 point
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