New FTC/Van owner

[Nokay]

Greetings! This is my first post being new to the forum (technically 2nd as I posted this in the Brakes/Suspension category) and van ownership but have been scouring the forum since I purchased it a few weeks ago.

A few weeks ago I bought a 2018 Transit Connect Cargo LWB 2.5L with 16,5xxx miles and I can't believe it took so long to get myself a van! I live in California and regularly ride mountain bikes and surf and it is so convenient to not have to take my gear out of the van all the time or be worried about my gear if I grab food or go into the store for something.  I will eventually build it out for trips/camping but I need the storage for a bit so for now I have:

 

Added hitch and bike rack

Added drapes

Put sound damping material everywhere except the floor and above the headliner (for now) have 2 more boxes to add

A few cargo nets for simple storage

New speakers/tweeters (thanks Donridley for speaker post/how remove door panels)

Cop center cap conversion haha

Added keyless entry pad (crucial for riding or surfing to not have to bring my keys) - For my 2018 I used P/N - KB3Z-14A626-A - took awhile to figure out how to program but worth the 30 minutes it took

 

Coming soon:

 

Remove false floor, add 2nd row single seat from 60/40 split and rebuild false floor with hatch to access storage on the side where there isn't a seat (1st saw Mikechell and Donshockley's posts - thanks guys!)

Adding a sub under drivers seat and bringing seats up 2" (thanks to Kevinrollin for adding bolt length and spacer post) - I've been super busy so my friend helped me (plus he's an actual machinist) and made 2" x 2" delrin spacers and got the right bolts

Larger A/T tires for clearance and in hopes to not get stuck

This leads me to my question regarding the rear shocks - does anyone know the eye to eye length and mounting hardware width and bolt diameter?? It seems the MK1 and MK2 rear shocks are different as MYK has MK1 and MK2 specific rears - is this correct?

My coworker made some rears for his MK1 so I have a dyno curve to match and I've searched but can't find any info..I want to make some shocks and don't want to have to pull my shocks and then make some.

 

Thanks for any insight into this and thank you all for your all your various posts and information as it has been invaluable!

[Nokay]

With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods.

Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). 

 

I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space.

 

I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks.  Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune.  Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads.  I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit.

 

I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself.  Here’s some pics.

 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2021 by Nokay

[Nokay]

It says I can’t upload more than 10MB so I’ll try to upload more another time. I trimmed the floor portion from above last pic a little more to fit the stock side step and also used a router so that the sidestep is flush to the floor.  Super stoked on how strong and clean this came out. I may cover it in fabric like some speakers have or I may stain it since. The wood contrasting to the aluminum would look dope!

Edited February 16, 2021 by Nokay

[jrm223]

That's some pretty clean work with the false floor storage hatch/cover. 

[B0NE]

I like the cop caps, how well do they hold onto the rim? Any chance that they could come flying off?

 

[Fifty150]

Take it easy.  You're putting to shame, all of us who have owned our vans for years, and haven't done a thing.

[Nokay]

Thanks @jrm223! I saw your post of using a futon frame to go over your removed floor. Very nice and good to know you can chop a full size bed in half to fit nicely.

 

@B0NE - The cop caps are for 5x114 PCD where our wheels are 5x108 so I bent the tabs and they hold great. Definitely have to use a screwdriver to pry them off so I’m not worried about them flying off.

 

@Fifty150 - haha! Now that the floor is done I’m going to hold off on any other major building for a bit. Just the rear shocks and body lift - I’ll update here again when I get that done.

[Fifty150]

....not that I want to fill your head with ideas

 

 

[Fifty150]

I guess I'm not the only person to install USB ports.  Looks like this guy bought them from Amazon also.

 

[sKiZo]

Here's my usb ports ...  <G>

 

 

I'll also be adding a multi-power panel in back that will give me DC/AC, and USB, all fed from my inverter. Bad news is, it's no longer listed on Amazon, but I'm sure they're available elsewhere.

 

 

[Fifty150]

 

3 hours ago, sKiZo said:

it's no longer listed on Amazon

 

 

It looks like something that you can build and customize.  All that you need is the panel, which can be made to order.  Is there a Tap store in your area?  You could draw a rough sketch, give them the dimensions, and they can custom cut a piece of plastic with all the holes cut to correct size.  Tap made the cover plate for my USB ports.  I recall that it was less than $20.  You can also order USB ports with the volt meter gauge built into it.  Low voltage toggle switches like that are very inexpensive.   You can get those in bulk.  Or consider getting heavy duty switches, depending on what you intend to use them for.  I'm only guessing, but I'm guessing that you would know how to wire in series or run parallel circuits as needed.

[sKiZo]

Oh. I mentioned it disappearing off Amazon for the benefit of others ... I already got one!  <G>

 

I suppose there's similar units available, with or without AC, but I'll leave the digging to someone else.

(Did I mention I already got one?)  ;-}

 

** Anyone setting up a power center, DO add an outside outlet so you can plug into line power when available. An inverter is nice if you're off the grid, but why use it if you don't have to? I used a standard waterproof outdoor outlet and made an adapter to give me a double male extension cord for easy hookups.

[Fifty150]

On 2/20/2021 at 3:24 PM, sKiZo said:

I used a standard waterproof outdoor outlet and made an adapter to give me a double male extension cord for easy hookups.

 

 

Why did you use an outlet?  Waterproof receptacle plugs are available.  Then you could use the standard cords without having to make a cord with 2 plug ends.

 

 

 

[Nokay]

@Fifty150 haha those builds are pretty crazy! I’ve been contemplating building it out more extensively but the toy hauler as is works well for my needs. I saw your post on the USB ports and I’ll probably to do something similar as the USB port in the back of the center console isn’t so convenient. Also considered some in the blank insert to the left of the reverse warning button but was thinking of trying to get seat warmers and adding the buttons there.

 

@sKiZo I’m considering a battery/inverter setup with outlets, switches and USB ports in the rear eventually as well. My van doesn’t have the rear AJB so I’ll have to run another line to the back through the grommet I ran the power line for my sub through.

 

For now I’m just using these rechargeable Magnetic LED lights since I have many other things that are taking priority.   

 

Oh! Also adding this Dash cam/rear camera mirror so I can have a “full time rear view mirror.” I see a wire coming from the headliner to the plastic that holds the normal rear view mirror for passenger van so I’ll update my findings when I get it installed - just waiting on this mirror holder  to arrive in hopes for a relatively clean install.  

[billet_@bellsouth.net]

1 hour ago, Nokay said:

 

Oh! Also adding this Dash cam/rear camera mirror so I can have a “full time rear view mirror.” I see a wire coming from the headliner to the plastic that holds the normal rear view mirror for passenger van so I’ll update my findings when I get it installed - just waiting on this mirror holder  to arrive in hopes for a relatively clean install.  

One of the very first things I did was to add an "always on" rear cam. I don't care for the mirror cam's since my full size Transit came with one and I found it to be too small an image. I added a 10" monitor and mounted the camera on the roof and it works great!

 

[Fifty150]

23 hours ago, Nokay said:

My van doesn’t have the rear AJB

  Install one.  Buy a fuse panel install kit, run a wire from the battery, and mount it in the same place.  

P/N 30004
Weatherproof Universal Style Pre-Wired 20 Circuit Fuse Block

 

 

[Nokay]

@billet_@bellsouth.net - how did you mount the rear camera? Thanks for the insight about the mirror cam v. Screen.  I wanted to keep the stock mirror look because of theft where I live so hopefully it’s not too small.

 

@Fifty150 -  Good looking out. I’ve been thinking about fuse box along with a set of rocker switches but I’m going to hold off on any electrical till I figure out what I want after a few trips. Until then I have battery jumper, battery packs and a cigarette power battery inverter if need be.

 

I haven’t had much time lately to do any work on the van or shocks but I’m hoping I can get some built in the next couple weeks. 

[Fifty150]

You could go cheap and simple.  Battery to a circuit breaker, to a small fuse block.  A 50A circuit breaker will be fine for a small block supplying 10A to 20A accessories.  

[Nokay]

@Fifty150 - Good looks on that as well! Still contemplating what to do for electrical.  Ideally I’d make have an extra battery with inverter setup so I can charge my Sur Ron and other other electronics while camping and have the ability to run lights.  

[billet_@bellsouth.net]

On 2/27/2021 at 2:40 AM, Nokay said:

@billet_@bellsouth.net - how did you mount the rear camera? Thanks for the insight about the mirror cam v. Screen.  I wanted to keep the stock mirror look because of theft where I live so hopefully it’s not too small.

It's actually mounted on top of the 3rd brake light using automotive double side mounting tape. It's not going anywhere. Cable is conveniently routed around the side of the light into the doors. Works out well.

 

[Nokay]

Thanks @billet_@bellsouth.net! Good looks on the double sided automotive tape. Still waiting on the mirror bracket. 
 

I just made this if anyone else has a dog that likes to windsurf and slips all over the plastic door panel. It slip fits between the door panel and window and then I just store it under the seat when she’s not with me. She’s only 15 lbs so I just used some crazy adhesive my friend had, shaped foam to contour to the door panel and wrapped it in speaker material and cloth.  

[Nokay]

Action shots ☺️

[Fifty150]

Pretty cool.  I need something like that.  So my dates can hang out the window when they drink too much.

[JustinVP]

On 2/16/2021 at 3:36 AM, Nokay said:

I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks.  Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune.  Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads.  I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit.

 

Oooh, tell us more! I'm in basically the same boat. but on a wagon. I'm not sure if they're the same shock size since the spring is heaver on the wagon. I'd really like to fit some air assist rears for loaded up trail building and shuttle or camp days. 

 

P.S. nice Sentinel!

[Nokay]

Great thinking @Fifty150!! ?

 

@JustinVP That's my idea as well, camping, shuttles and/or putting a moto in I can just add a little air or remove as needed.  I'd assume that they're the same shock size (from my research the rears are 18.3125") and for the passenger Ford just puts in different springs.  I've been too busy with work and school, still waiting on parts still and have to experiment a little but to give you a hint - I won't be using a car strut/shock ? 

I saw your posts with TEMA body lift and have those on order as well. Those should be easy enough to install and do the rear shocks. Once I get more time I'm going to look into the Escape fronts you posted from that guys build and I'll see if I can build fronts as well!

Good eye on the Transition but it's a Scout - I'm 5'6" and the Sentinel/29ers seem too tall for my riding style.