Don Ridley

The evap system does a complete system leak check using vacuum and pressure. Vacuum comes from the engine and pressure comes from natural sloshing of gasoline in the tank. What problem or error code are your trying to solve. There are detailed descriptions of the evap tests and how and when they are conducted. It's pretty complicated.

Oh man, that's bad news. You seem to have found the information on the dreaded block failures on some Ecoboost engines. Swapping engines and multiple ECUs (PCM, BCM etc) seems too complicated to be worth the effort. Plus you may have registration and emissions issues (depending on your State, Country etc). The Focus is a better match to the TC. But good luck finding a solid Focus ST or RS motor. There is still hope that you only have a bad head gasket. Probably not ☹️

No, I did not have any symptoms listed in the recall. My windshield seemed perfectly fine.. except for several chips and cracks. I only did the recall because I had time on my hands and it would be nice to have the windshield stay attached if I rolled the van.

Read the recall document. It only REQUIRES the windshield be reseated/resealed. No free windshield. I was "lucky" enough to have the glass company damage my windshield during the process and a new one installed for free. The recall fixes a potential safety issue properly. A new windshield is not needed to make the vehicle safe.

The front cigarette lighter socket is always on. Other Fords have outlets where the power will time out after the ignition is turned off (F150 for example) There are numerous circuits that turn off with the ignition. Look at the fuse list in the owners manual. Then find the fuse you want in the block behind the glove box. Use an add-a-fuse connector to tap into the circuit.

You need a scan tool to read the error codes. The instrument cluster may have failed but you need to diagnose this before replacing parts. Plus I think the cluster needs to be programmed for your keys. This may need to go to a professional mechanic unless you have the diagnostic tools.

FYI, the maximum brightness setting when the headlights are ON is not 100%. The display will always be brighter when the headlights are OFF.

I assume you do not have Sync1 or Sync3 because these use the APIM module for clock functions I think. You can try changing the configuration to delete the radio. using Forscan but it will take time to learn what to do and cost about $60 for an adapter. It will be a little bit of a research project with some trial and error testing. Depends on how motivated you are.

There are a couple of posts about this. Search the forum.

The sensor in the front seat is supposed to be able to determine when a child seat has been installed and this will disable the airbag. There is not a button that will manually turn off the airbag. Maybe check the child seat installation. The seat has a bladder that senses weight. From the manual: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=9178&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G2000761&ProcUid=G2000762&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False

Yes, no, maybe... There is a post somewhere in the forum about this. There were updates on the progress, then nothing. So we don't know what happened. It's complicated and expensive. You need all hardware and computers from the ST to make it work....if it ever works.

Air intake is under the wipers. There is a plastic plenum that runs across the bottom of the windshield. My 2016 has a thin layer of insulation to slow down engine heat into the plenum. I briefly though about adding insulation, but decided it wouldn't much to lower the temperature. I only use the vents without AC in cold weather.

It's picking heat up from the engine bay and sun load on the dash. My 2016 has a similar behavior. But I have never measured the temperature.

The problem is the flap seals the gas tank and is required for emissions controls. You could try something like this lock. It may only slow down a thief.

The service manual says to reset the keep alive memory (KAM) whenever a sensor is replaced. Disconnect the negative cable on the battery for about 10 minutes to do a master reset of all modules and KAM.

I'm definitely not an expert, but the only pulley that has multiple pieces is the AC pulley and clutch. You may be able to reassemble it. There may be some washers/spacers that fell off also. Use a new compressor (return it when done) or a junkyard compressor to see how it goes together.

Congratulations on the 1.6L Ecoboost. They are rare in the US. With their low end torque you will have no problem making even knobby tires spin...in spite of comments otherwise.

You may be able to permanently disable the interior sensors using Forscan (search this forum and the internet for Forscan info). There may be a configuration setting to select perimeter alarm only. I can't check using my vehicle (2016 TC) because the 2022s are probably different. Changing the configuration is the cleanest way because the programming will not try to use the sensors and it will communicate this to all the other affected modules. You will have to connect Forscan using a PC every time you want to change it back (not practical for frequent changes).

Nicely documented. I think the grey Denko cap is a breather (probably for condensation control). You should buy a set of trim panel removal tools. Everything on these vans is held by clips as you have discovered.

Try local or online junkyards.

Tail lights for ANY vehicle are expensive. Even the self service junkyards charge a lot for tail lights. Must be an industry standard. Online junkyards want $230 plus shipping. Aftermarket tail lights are crap. Something about the plastic and diffraction pattern always looks cheap. I have not found a glue that adheres well to the plastic (polycarbonate?).

I took my TC to the dealership for this recall. They sent it to a local glass shop because they don't do windshields. I have a heated windshield and the glass shop broke something associated with the heater. I got a new windshield for free. This was fortuitous because I had several large chips that were likely to propagate soon.

I would inspect the motor mounts first. See if the rubber section is split or separated.

I was wrong about the RPMs. The specs are for the alternator RPM. Sorry for the bad info. Here's the specs for a 2016 TC.

Fish a wire through the hole. It will come out next to the battery. You shouldn't have to remove the battery (at least I don't remember doing it....but it was a while ago).