Don Ridley

From the service manual: Engine coolant flows primarily from the engine to the radiator circuit and back to the coolant pump. Coolant is sent from the coolant pump through the engine block and cylinder heads. A separate circuit from the engine also feeds the heater core and turbocharger with coolant. The coolant pump, operated by engine rotation through the accessory drive belt, circulates the coolant. The coolant thermostat is a control valve actuated by coolant temperature. When the thermostat is closed, coolant flow bypasses the radiator circuit and returns to the coolant pump. When the thermostat is opened, coolant flows through the radiator circuit to transfer engine-generated heat to the outside air. The transmission cooler - warmer is mounted on the transmission. On initial startup, the transmission fluid heater coolant control valve opens and allows warm coolant from the engine to enter the transmission cooler - warmer to warm the transmission fluid. As the engine and transmission warm, the transmission fluid heater coolant control valve closes and the transmission fluid cooler coolant control valve opens, allowing cooler coolant from the radiator to enter the transmission cooler - warmer to cool the transmission fluid.

JustinVP, I added sound deadening materials to my 2016 wagon. After reviewing lengthy discussions on car audio forums. there are two types of sound deadeners: 1. Heavy material to keep the metal from "ringing" and 2. Dense material to absorb sounds. The technical details are more complicated buy you get the idea. I used a Dynamat-like material (Second skin Damplifier Pro) on the door panels and floor. These materials only need 50% coverage to be effective. They can be difficult to install and are mainly for improving the audio quality of your sound system. However, Ford already adds similar material to much of the body, ceiling and floor because it works on road noise also. What may be more effective at reducing road noise is adding padding to all of the door and cargo area panels. I used Thermozite: http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Double-sided-thermozite-heat-shield-padding.html Apply with spray on glue. Removing the panels requires panel removal tools. Amazon has dozens: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1522545499&sr=8-7&keywords=panel+removal+tools Removing the front door panels can be tricky. Here are some instructions: I really like the sound and feel the Thermozite adds. Does it really make the interior much quieter? I can't say for sure. The first couple of panels will take you a while to insulate, but it gets easier as you go.

I looked at my Torque app (full, paid version). Under the main settings menu there is a selection to add custom PIDs. There is a long list of Ford specific PIDs so I added them. Under the Realtime data screen I started adding displays. The Ford specific PIDs showed as options but many of them were not returning any data (they are green when active). But I saw a transmission temperature selection that was active and display the temperature. So look at the data with the engine running and hopefully you can find what you need.

I did some testing and if you connect a trailer harness, and you have the tow package, the TC will expect all the trailer lights to work. I found the turn signals flashed rapidly and an error message displayed when I did not have turn signal bulbs installed. If you want to permanently simulate a turn signal load you need at least 11watts (5w did not work). A 10 ohm, 25w resistor will work well. So for a permanently installed rack or bumper, you could wire the resistors to a trailer plug and keep it plugged in. You probably will have to add another resistor to simulate the tail/running lights so the trailer module thinks a trailer is attached. This should disable the backup alarms. I know this is complicated, but it will work.

This error message and the "engine fault, service now" can be caused by a simple sensor failing briefly, or something more serious. I recently got the engine fault warning on my 2016 and it cleared with an engine restart. If it happens again I will take it in for a warranty repair. At least they can scan it with something better than my OBDII tool. OBDII shows no error codes.

The Focus forum has this info: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/430434-torque-pid-ford-focus.html#/topics/430434 Maybe it will work for the TC since they are similar platforms. I have the Torque app but have not researched how to add custom data. If you get it to work please share.

Here's the part number,: 8A6A-13776-A You will have to add a jumper wire to route the switched 12v to the map lamps. It is simple and requires a female spade lug. I installed LED bulbs and recommend the Phillps 194LED bulbs over the cheap ones on Amazon. They have better color, are brighter and don't fail after 2 months.

You can buy an OEM light with reading lights that snaps in. I found it on the Tasca Ford website. But there is not constant 12v power overhead for passenger use. I wired my light so all 3 lights go on when the doors open (switches have to be "on" at the light). This works well to add more cargo as area light. Let me know if you want the p/n and I will search for my purchase. It was less than $30 I think.

If you upgraded to the basic SYNC it will play via USB and Bluetooth. SYNC will have the small screen above the radio controls, SYNC3 is the touchscreen.

Mrtn is correct, if the TC has the factory trailer package. Your trailer lights must have running lights and turn signals or you will get bulb failure messages.

I mentioned this on another thread: the backup sensors are disabled when you have a trailer connected. You should be able to connect a dummy load on the trailer plug to permanently disable the sensors. But this will require some wiring and testing to determine how much load (resistor size) is needed. You will also have to simulate all lights and and turn signals to avoid a burned out bulb message. This is may be too complicated, but it will work.

Oh, I see the wiring diagram is in this thread.

The latch and lock are both controlled by the body control module BCM. There is a motor in the latch that may be bad. The "lock" appears to be logic in the BCM that knows when to send voltage to the motor. You can check for voltage but you need the wiring diagram, pin outs and some electrical knowledge. Otherwise, try replacing the latch motor. If power is not getting to the motor, the switch on the lift gate may be bad (pushing the latch pulls the voltage to GND and the BCM responds). Hopefully the BCM is OK. Let me know if you want the wiring diagram.

You will soon forget the wait. But if you didn't buy exactly what you wanted, you would have never forgotten that. Exciting week!

The map lights on my 2016 XLT time out after a while (10 min I think) when the engine is off.

GBL, I think the Helm version is slightly better. I can tell mine (factory-manual version) has undergone some type of format conversion because there is a slight resolution loss compared to the Helm version. This is not a problem and I am satisfied with the factory-manual version but knowing the difference, I probably would have bought the Helm.

Thanks for the update. Your TC looks great and has proven to be functional and reliable. I won't see 100k miles for a long time.

Does this help? https://parts.lakelandford.com/a/Ford__Transit-Connect/54562347__6479784/RADIATOR--COMPONENTS-COOLING/MB14050.html

Welcome and congratulations on your purchase. The 1.6L SWB is indeed rare. I joke that there are probably only 10 of us in California. It is a great little engine and the mileage is impressive for a mini van. Check out the handful of posts for performance and aesthetic upgrades to this vehicle. I added the Flowmaster Turbo Transformer and it works great. Simple to install and does not cause any fault codes and will pass all emissions checks. You will have to quickly learn how to handle the torque steer when the turbo kicks in : ) Ford discontinued the 1.6L TC in 2016. But fortunately the 1.6L was popular in the Ford Focus so parts should not be that scarce. The rarity of our vehicle is confusing. When I ordered mine in 2016 the dealer (in Oklahoma) ordered another with similar specs and they sold it immediately (before it was even received!). Maybe the SWB wagon defies the American habit of buying the largest vehicle available?

I bought this for my Gen 2 TC. It is one, big PDF file. Works good enough. Hyperlinks and some electrical connector info not there, but it is very useful. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit/-connect&28&164

Google search found this: https://www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/107612/tsb15-0094

Williaty, Does the titanium plate reduce the temperature due to lower thermal conductivity (about 1/2 of steel) or due to the mechanical separation and poor heat transfer?

Is the windshield made by Ford (it will have the logo)? If so, how can it be wrong (a question for the dealer). My 2016 XLT has a rain sensor sensitivity adjustment knob on the right stalk. Go to the Ford ETIS website and get the factory configuration for your TC based on the VIN.

You may get a bulb failure message because the current draw on the LEDs is low.

The FOB has a transmitter that allows the vehicle start. Leaving a fob inside will allow the van to be started by punching the ignition or other criminal means. I want to hide a key under the body but need to find a way to block the disable/enable signal.