Fifty150

The transmission fill amount is 4 liters. We don't use the metric system, and it is confusing. You can do this with 12 quarts. For your final fill, after you add 4 quarts, or 1 gallon, you will add 7.256 ounces. That will be 4 liters. How you do it is up to you. I used a measuring cup (stolen from ex-girlfriend's baking supplies). Buy an extra quart, and use 7 - 8 ounces from that. Pour out 7 - 8 ounces of the first quart you open, and set that aside for the final fill. Or, take an ounce from each of the 1st 8 quarts you open. If you get between 7 and 8 ounces, you will be fine. You will not be overfilled or underfilled by less than 1 ounce. Look around a little bit before you order the fluid. There are alternatives to Ford Motorcraft LV. Walmart now sells a Supertech LV. Mag1 offers LV. When I serviced my transmission, I used Valvoline MaxLife which is labeled for LV. Another forum member used Triax Global ATF. You always hear that you should only use Ford Motorcraft Mercon. Motorcraft LV is what your transmission was engineered to use. Other people have found that other fluids work also.

Not sure it's going away. As a kid, I remember reruns on television: a bounty hunter with a lifted truck. I'm not Colt Seavers. That was a bro truck.

4X8 plywood will be a challenge. Lengths of lumber will be a challenge. The van's interior isn't really that big. Just about any low cost camera on Amazon or eBay will work. All of them require you to tap into the reverse lamp wires for power & ground, and they should come with a wire run for you to bring the signal to the front. If you replace your stereo for something with a screen, those units will usually have the correct RCA & power connection to your camera. Crutchfield dot com. You will get everything you need for your installation in 1 place. You can pick up the wiring harness connector which is specific to your vehicle, and antenna adapter if needed, and a dash trim kit if applicable. Maybe not the cheapest. But it's a good place to start, to figure out everything that you will need. Look for something with a screen so that you can wire in the backup camera, BlueTooth for your phone, SD card and/or USB for your music & media, and maybe even GPS navigation. Carpet scraps are a good way to go. I did that for years with my Jeeps & trucks. Even door mats from a dollar store or thrift shop. You get them dirty, muddy, spill food & beverage.....throw it out and get new ones. See if you can get leftover pieces from a flooring store. Then you can cut to fit. Unless you spend a lot of money for rubber mats like WeatherTech. My 1st concern with the bare floor, since you bought the van used, is how much of the paint has already been scratched & worn off, leaving exposed metal to eventually suffer corrosion. Most cargo vans, after years of use, will have damaged paint, exposed metal, corrosion, and rust. You have several options. The cheapest & easiest is a couple of spray cans of primer. It could look good if you do a good job. The key is to spend the time and do a good job. Wash it out real well. Prep surface correctly. Et cetera. Truck bed liner would be great for your application. People with Jeeps love using truck bed liner on the inside of their Jeeps. There are a lot of reviews and articles online about choosing different materials and brands, and how to do it yourself. Or you can pay a professional $XXX. The leading brands are Line-X & Rhino Linings. My pickup truck bed was applied at a Line-X franchise in San Leandro, around the corner from The Ford Store. 12 years later, with lots of use & abuse, It's still like new. A piece of plywood cut to size. Liquid Nails will work great for carpet scraps. Even better if the carpet scraps are all mismatched, to give you some "artistic cred". Home improvement centers sell a product known as "carpet tile"; which is exactly as it sounds. Little squares of carpet. Get different colors and designs, and checkerboard them. You can load your equipment and the carpeting will provide some padding. You have tie down anchors. Use those with ratchet straps for your larger, heavier items like amps. This carpeted plywood will also be a great base for a futon pad & sleeping bag. Since you have an Ikea in Emeryville, you can probably pickup inexpensive bedding and some sort of cushioned mattress pad. You can go all out with a crazy build. Being an artist, you can let you mind wander, dream, and create. Plenty of roof vents and fans for that model year. You could also look into a roof rack. OEM windows or aftermarket window can be installed. LED strip lights like the inside of a limousine. My opinion is that it's a 2012, and you don't know what you have mechanically yet. Your first consideration is maintenance and wear items. You don't want to build out a mobile glory hole, or whatever, and then it doesn't run. Do more than you think you need to do. Flush out the cooling system, install new belts & hose, and replace the water pump & thermostat. Exchange the transmission fluid and motor oil. Run some Techron through the fuel system. Replace all the filters. Spark plugs & coils should be on your list. Plan on new brakes, bleed the lines, replace the old brake fluid. Maybe upgrade with better rotors & pads. There were issues with the wheel bearings on that generation. There may be other known issues that you can address. Try your best to begin your ownership with as many new parts as possible, so that you will be secure in knowing what works. Do everything possible mechanically, before you invest in other projects. No point getting the van exactly the way you want it, and then it stops running.

In USA, we believe that a RWD offers more power. Increased payload.

Same place a case of 12 Motorcraft filters sold for $14. Amazon, where prices surge and drop without reason. I just got a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX Magnatec full synthetic for $16. 1 day delivery included.

Add transmission drain plug to that list. Transmission fluid exchange on Transit Connect is just as easy as an oil change. No reason not to do it.

At last oil change, I used this brand. Bought it for $40 / case of 12 quarts.

That's unacceptable. Glad the people here were able to help.

Just looking out at the truck & van parked out on the street. Just doesn't look like my truck is cool enough to qualify as a "bro truck". I don't have enough bling, lift, or the other things that would qualify. And actually looking at it; it's not really that much of a difference in size between the pickup & Transit Connect.

My impression was that the rear fog light really isn't meant to illuminate, light anything up, or actually aide in your vision. I thought that a rear fog light was meant to be bright, so that people coming up from behind can see you and know that you are there. Which is why I have always installed fog lights with marker lights on the same circuit. If I decide that I need to turn on fog lights in order to see what's in front of me; I want to be seen by other drivers coming up from behind, who may be driving just a little too fast in bad weather.

I have a plate & fin cooler with an electric fan for cooling the transmission on my pickup. Looking at the Transit Connect's available space - maybe a 19 row cooler with 5" fan. \

https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/universal/heat-sink2013-10-28-09-53-27466000825/13267-detail

You don't remove the radiator hose. Put on a pair of gloves. Reach your fingers under the hose. Just lift the cap. It comes right out. And there will be room for you to insert a transmission funnel tube right into the hole.

Here is a parts diagram for the 6F35. Being a guy who can add air to his own tires, I can follow it somewhat. Part 7H322 is the cooler bypass valve. 2 lower lines with quick connect fittings. Longer line going towards the front of the transmission case, I believe is a return line dumping cool fluid into the sump. Part 7A095 has cooling fins, and is a cooler. This device bridges the cooler bypass valve lines and the cooling system up front. From what I see, it looks like the fins cool the fluid slightly before it even goes to the radiator, and provides additional cooling before the fluid returns to the transmission. Hoping one of you guys can look under your hood, and identify where to disconnect the transmission return line, how to do it, and route ATF to an auxiliary cooler.

Front End photos from Tully Kieys build. See the area under the bumper, in front of the A/C condenser? That is where I would consider mounting a transmission cooler.

With the bumper cover removed, it doesn't look like there's a lot of space for additional cooling. It can still be done. A cooler can be bolted on under the steel bumper bar.

The service procedure for a 6F35 is a triple drain & fill. There's already a very thorough thread covering how to do it, and plenty of feedback from users who have done it themselves. Dealerships typically use a fluid exchange machine. It sounds like whomever performed your transmission fluid exchange only drained and filled the transmission 1 time. Depending on who performed the service, the fluid level may not be correct if they did not follow the service procedure. I suggest that you follow that up with the 3X drain & fill, or a fluid exchange with a machine, to ensure that you have the freshest fluid possible & the correct fill level. Review the service procedure and discuss it with your service provider. DanDweller, Note what mrtn experienced. Check your fluid level. In many years of driving trucks & Jeeps, I can add my own experience. I have not installed a cooler onto the Transit Connect, so my experience may not be relevant. In modern vehicles with a cooler bypass valve, there is no way that you can "over-cool" your transmission. For most people, it's probably not needed, as the OEM cooling system bypasses the cooler until the fluid reaches a preset temperature. The car's computer controls the electric fan, and a series of temperature monitors will activate the cooling fan as needed. When the coolant is hot, the fan will turn on. When the air conditioning is on, the fan will turn on. I may be wrong, but I believe, that the fan is also activated if the transmission reaches a certain threshold temperature, to prevent overheating. Anytime you add an aftermarket cooler, it should be inline with the return line flow. Allow the OEM cooling system to work as designed, then add auxiliary equipment. Never bypass or delete the OEM cooling system as designed. I like to add coolers with a built in electric fan, to further reduce transmission fluid temperature. Extremely effective for trucks towing under load, stop and go traffic, 4 wheel drive operations, and hot ambient temperature climates. An auxiliary cooler with a fan is essential for trucks & Jeeps which do anything above & beyond cruising a shopping mall parking lot. My own feeling is that the OEM cooling system on a Transit Connect is fine for daily driving, with passengers, not in bumper-to-bumper stop-and-go traffic. If I were to consider loading my car with 1,000+ pounds, towing, or commercial use - I would look into additional cooling. Aftermarket coolers come in so many different configurations and sizes, that you can't list them all. If doing it yourself, you will need a service manual for reference. Take of the front end. Remove all plastic bumper cover, grille, air dam, et cetera. Then decide on a suitable mounting location. You will also need the service manual to determine where to splice the transmission fluid return line, and the best way to route your new auxiliary cooler lines.

What ever happened to this installation?

There's probably some good information on this forum about maintenance on your car. Enough people have owned these over the years, where they already posted a few tips & tricks.

Now you should probably follow up with the deferred maintenance. 9 year old car needs some work, just because it's 9 years old.

Such low miles. Amazing find! Congratulations.

Interesting choice. You went from a Transit Connect, to a Transit Connect. I wonder if I would do that also when the time comes.

He could easily have beaten up my Mustang II.