Fifty150

I wonder....... I still have a SCT LiveWire unit. I would only need to have a tune e-mailed to me, and I could load it myself. How much did Ford "leave on the table" when it comes to the 2.5L gas engine? What could someone hope to gain?

I suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator. When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then. Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use. Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis. Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best. I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon. 5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda. Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case. Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs. Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil. Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil. I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate. But don't get creative. No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck. At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters. Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game. If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also. I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20. Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95. You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty. Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better. Get a set of those magnetic sockets. But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag. Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.

I think I paid a little more to have my Transic Connect shipped from Valencia, Spain.

I'm guessing that your 2010 is currently out of warranty. Here in Cali, and perhaps the rest of The USA, some dealers will advocate on your behalf for the manufacturer to perform an "after warranty adjustment" service. In some states, it's written into law. Talk to your dealer about a "good will" repair. Perhaps inquire with the NHTSA to see if this is a safety concern, which could force a recall.

I might be the only person on this forum who bought a stripped down XL. I simply did not have the hundreds of dollars for the premium Ford Sync system. Nor did I have the extra thousands of dollars for an XLT or Titanium model. So I just have to live in the commercial/fleet world while others have personal vehicles with bells & whistles. My car came with only an AM/FM radio. That little display screen above the head unit, tucked into the dash, does not exist on my car. It's just a plastic shelf which I put my cheap sunglasses in. If you think that is funny, my F-150 came without A/C, power windows, power door locks, and only has an AM radio. Yeah, laugh at me having to turn the window crank to roll up the windows, and locking the door by pressing down on the little whatchamacallit. The AM/FM is just that. No Bluetooth. I found a $12.98 solution on Amazon.com. No frills. It is clipped onto the overhead shelf, right above my head. I can hear everything just fine. The person on the other end of the call is able to hear me. Unit "speaks" Mandarin Chinese, Spanish, & English. Instructions are in Chinese & English. Pairing with my cell phone was effortless. It's not pretty. But it works. I hope this helps other poor people like me who could not afford the extra add-ons that inflate the price of the vehicle. Not being cheap. I just really don't have the money. That is why there are base models. For people like me without the financial resources.

I suppose everyone has their own reasons for the types of vehicles that they drive. Would I like to drive a nicer car? Sure. Are there bigger vehicles with more power and seating? You bet. For me, this vehicle was something that I settled for. Bang for the buck. Probably the best option for interior space and seating at this price point. Not much out there in the same price range that offers seating for 7, with as much leg room & head room, and as many cubic feet of cargo capacity. Of course in my case, I bought the most stripped down vehicle I could find. AM/FM radio. Plastic floors. Cloth seats. No backup camera. No fog lights. I only wish that a stick shift was available in my market.

Who did you buy from? I ordered from proclipusa.com and haven't had any problems with spam.

How about simply buying online?

Get a partition. Then the dogs can have the entire rear of the vehicle.

What are you installing? Your new unit does not come with a vehicle specific installation kit? Your new unit does not have a harness, that you can then pair to the OEM harness? Check with Scosche and Metra. They will usually have everything that you need, from the new dash, to connection harness, to antenna adapter.

I know it is tough to find a dead battery in the morning. It is just as bad to find broken auto glass and that someone had stolen all that stuff that you left in the charger overnight. I live where vehicles are constantly broken into. Sure, the obvious is electronics. But anything of value, or simply anything, left in a vehicle will be stolen. Even an empty backpack or grocery bag. They don't know what is in it, or that it is empty. It's worth breaking your window, to see if anything is in the bag. Even items of clothing are stolen. Some people will think nothing of breaking your window, to take a shirt or jacket that you left on the seat. One local agency police chief lost her gun and badge. I make a habit of clearing out my vehicles, so that nothing is left in them overnight. I know. It is a real pain in the you know what. And since most of us think of our vehicles as our personal space, we tend to fill them with items of comfort and convenience. Phone chargers, navigation aides, tools, birth control, music players, coffee cups, and whatever else to make your commute safe and comfortable. But now I limit myself to whatever I can carry in a backpack. Just like taking the bus. Extra jacket, umbrella, phone charger, sex toys, backup gun, Morakniv, sandwich, coffee thermos, underwear, latex gloves, multi-plier, cable ties, duct tape, hair ties, camp stove, fire starter, tablet computer, spare socks, and a toothbrush. If it all fits in the backpack, then it goes with me out to the car. And when I go home, everything goes back hone with me. I don't leave anything in the car anymore. I'm thinking that I could leave a Morakniv in the car, just in case I "accidentally" find myself driving into the wilderness and get lost in the woods.

Don't ever be afraid of drilling holes into your car. Sometimes, you need to drill holes to install what you want. Communications equipment works best with an antenna mounted onto the roof. Over the years, I've drilled plenty of holes to install aftermarket lighting products. I'm already eyeing that extra metal above the windshield, between the windshield and the roof, as an ideal mounting spot for a 52" LED light bar. Those huge spoilers don't simply stick onto your Honda with double sided adhesive. Just make sure that you apply a little bit of Rustoleum to protect the bare metal, and use a little silicon to seal the hole from leaks. On a side note, WeatherTech Rain Guards install just as easily as the ProClip mounting base. They snap right in without tools. Ford 2016 Transit Connect Side Window Deflectors - In-Window-ChannelPart #: 80751

It could be a number of issues. I am guessing that your remote is unlocking the other doors when you press the unlock button. We can assume that the remote is working. What happens when you press the remote to lock the van? Do the doors lock? There could be an issue with the van's Body Control Module computer. Or the lock and mechanism is worn. As years go by, the opening and closing, plus locking and unlocking, creates wear and tear. Sometimes, it's wiring. Take the door apart. Check the lock. Inspect the wiring, look for shorts, broken connections, and poor grounding.

Not every dealership has a locksmith on staff. Most dealers don't have the equipment to cut the keys either. The dealerships can order from the manufacturer, which could take a very long time. Stock the key blanks, transponders, & remotes along with the equipment to do all the work, and have a locksmith on salary. Or subcontract that type of work to a local locksmith who has the tools to service automobiles for most manufacturers. In Norte Califas, check out Lock World. Ebay has keys, but who is going to cut & program them? I've had transponder keys made at Wal*Mart. Home Depot has transponder keys online. Here is what you do. Make a bunch of $3 keys at a local hardware store. Epoxy your key under the dash, next to the ignition, close enough so that the ignition will always "see" and "transpond" with the key; so the the vehicle will "think" that your transponder key is close to or in the ignition. Then simply use the el cheapo keys to start your vehicle. Sure, you've now defeated your own security system. Your car is now just about as easy to steal as a Pacer, Gremlin, or motor scooter imported from China. But you have saved a few hundred dollars. That is just about as good as leaving your doors unlocked, windows down, and key in the ignition. But who really wants to spend the extra bucks on keys, when you have already spent tens of thousands of dollars on a car? My Transit Connect came with 4 keys. I did not ask why. No reason was offered. Each key came with a sticker which was printed with numbers. I save those just in case they were needed as "key codes". I now save everything that comes with the car. Unlike my brother, the dummy, who throws everything away including the owners manual with the radio unlock code on his last car. The radio was useless after installing a new battery under the hood.

Erring on the side of caution, I would think that all modern vehicles have transponder keys. Even on my 10 year old F-150, the key looks like a normal key, but has a transponder. For the truck, I got an extra key made at the hardware store. It was only a few dollars for a regular key blank. It unlocked the tailgate and cab, plus turned in the ignition. However, the truck did not start. I was able to get a working transponder key at Wally World for less than what the dealership charged. I was hesitant and had doubts that a Wal*Mart clerk could cut a key for less than $50, when the dealership charges upwards of $200. The Wally World clerk stated that the key was guaranteed to work; if I went outside and couldn't start my car, they would issue an immediate refund. No troubles. It worked. As it turns out, not every car dealership has equipment to cut keys, make transponder keys, or even have a qualified locksmith on staff to address such issues. As with some tech work, body work, and upfitting; they outsource. In my local area, I've seen the same locksmith van at a bunch of different dealerships, both domestic and import. Lock World. Check with your local locksmith for pricing and availability. Now, even Home Depot offers the keys. I got my key about 10 years ago. Pricing may be different in today's market. But options are out there.

I suppose if you had to publish one owners manual, for a bunch of different vehicles with different options, then not every vehicle will have the options described in the manual.

Was that a new van, with a sticker price of $18K? I suppose pricing will vary depending upon location.

From what I could see, the rear turn signal is a 7440, and the rear brake is a 7443. Has anyone tried the plug-n-play load resistor kits? Looks simple. A pair of 12 Ohm 100W LED load resistor used to solve common bulb burnt out or turn signal problems associated with LED bulb upgrades.Simulates traditional filament bulbs to eliminate error indications for hyper-flash (quick blinking) or burnt out bulb.Load resistor compatible for sizes: 7443 (please order correct size for your need).There are two different types of adapters for size 3157 and 7443, this set of load resistor is meant for standard adapters. Please double check that you are not purchasing this for use with vehicles equipped with CK (polarity sensitive) adapters.Plug-and-play kit that requires no retrofitting, please be aware that metal piece does get hot during use. A pair of 6 Ohm 50W LED load resistor used to solve common bulb burnt out or turn signal problems associated with LED bulb upgrades.Simulates traditional filament bulbs to eliminate error indications for hyper-flash (quick blinking) or burnt out bulb.Load resistor compatible for sizes: 7440 T20 (please order correct size for your need).Plug-and-play kit that requires no retrofitting, please be aware that metal piece does get hot during use.

Speaking for myself, I would never do it. For me, one of the "features" of an "American" car is the constant power to the cigarette lighter. I like being able to turn my ignition off, with my phone or whatever, still plugged in and charging/operating. I've been known to take Japanese cars and wire up the 12v power port and the stereo directly to the battery so that I can still play music without the engine running. Yeah, I know. The obvious is to turn the engine off, then turn the key back to the ACC position. But I like doing stupid things to my cars. It allows me to exit the vehicle with the music still playing, only to come back in the morning to a dead battery. The best has to be to leave your headlamps, fog lamps, and off-road lights on. That really drains your battery.

Look in your owners manual, locate the fuse which supplies the power port, remove the fuse. Get ahold of the wiring diagram for the vehicle. Locate the positive wire for the power port. Cut the wire, then reroute it through a relay. Your load, the power port, will be "normally open" on pin 87. The "common", on pin 30, will connect to your fuse box. Hook up pin 86 to your ignition, and pin 85 to ground, and this will be your coil. Reinstall the fuse. Use a simple Single Pole Single Throw relay.

Interesting. I always wondered how well the Costco program worked. It sounded easy enough. Just tell Costco what you want, and go with their pricing. I wonder how that works on the back end. Obviously, nobody gives cars away. And no dealerships let anything drive off the lot at a loss. So there must be money being made. Money is made on every deal, no matter how good you think your deal was. Nobody beats the dealer down to a loss. My observation is that now it's not just the dealer who has to make money, but Costco also has to make money, and it's going to be from out of my pocket. That is why I've always negotiated my own deals, as opposed to using an auto broker, or one of those internet websites that supposedly help you get a better deal. And what does "invoice" really mean? There is no way that everyone is buying "below invoice", and the dealerships are staying in business. There ought to be an investigative report done by a news documentary show on the real way dealers sell cars and make money. I would love to know how that works. How many other businesses can list prices that are extremely overpriced, a price point which none of the actual merchandise is actually sold at, then lie to you about how much you're saving because they're giving you such a great deal?

This could work for you also.

Isn't it kind of hard to get an NV200 with seats?

I suppose we all make decisions that best suit our individual needs and wants. For me, the short wheel base would have been better for maneuverability and parking. Having only 5 seats would usually leave me out as the driver on any outing since someone else would be able to carry more passengers. Living in The City, being able to squeeze into small parking spots is a huge advantage. Not so important if you live where there is plenty of parking. But the long wheel base would be better for carrying passengers and cargo. Although the obvious observation would be that if I had really wanted to move large cargo, I should look at a larger van or truck. In addition, if I wanted to simply carry passengers, a larger van would also serve better. In the end, I remembered what my dad told me about trucks. If you don't get an 8' bed, then you didn't really buy a truck. I guess if I only cared about carrying 5 passengers, I could buy a sedan. I bought a long wheel base, and now I'm driving around by myself with all the seats flipped down, including the front passenger seat. Kind of nice being able to flip over that front passenger seat and having a work surface to write on or eat lunch off of. I could simply do more with a long wheel base, so I decided to to sacrifice being able to squeeze into small parking spots. Fortunately, I also own a pickup truck for cargo and towing, a small import for fuel economy and parking, and a motorcycle just because I like motorcycles.