DonShockley

My 2020 turns off after around 2 hours. I tested it once by checking periodically after parking. IIRC, it was still running after the 1.5 hour point, but when I checked it shortly after 2 hours it was off. So I've always assumed a 2 hour delay and have never had battery drain issues. But I'm just using a pretty basic dashcam with fairly low power draw.

I needed a cheap one for a single trip and a twin size from Academy fit well and worked fine. Not sure on long term durability but at $20 just the one trip would have been enough. https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/intex-dura-beam-twin-size-airbed-with-built-in-ac-pump?sku=twin-mattress

No, the metal nozzle isn't movable. You can change where it hits the glass Left-Center-Right by pulling it out and rotating it before reinserting, but that's it.

I did a test on my 2020 several months ago to see how long the outlet stayed powered after shutting off the ignition. Checked every 15 minutes or so and it shut off right around the 2 hour mark.

Don't see much detailed responses on Facebook. Just the typical quick mentions of "try this" "might be that" in response to questions posted. Seems more the casual user as compared to responses here. Users here seem more dedicated to digging in and getting answers that often even the dealers don't know since individual TC sales are few and far between. Facebook has more exposure, so more chance of something new and unique, but so far I haven't noticed anything new there that I hadn't already seen here.

I haven't looked closely at my 2020 TC, but when I was adding accessories to my 2015 TC via the rear Aux Junction Box, the extra wiring just wasn't there. I had assumed a similar situation to what you describe, a fairly universal harness with options connected as needed. But in the fuse boxes, I found that although the supply side of the fuse was present in the box (due to using a fixed metal bus bar), if the option wasn't in my 2015 then there was no wire at all installed on the other side of the fuse opening. Given the more difficult access and tight quarters on the 2020 fuse boxes, I suspect it's even worse which is why I haven't gotten around to digging into it yet. I likely will just add a small aux box direct to the battery when I have the need.

The OP links at Mouser have smaller quantities available. If you search the part numbers, one has a cut strip of 100 available for $23 and the other part is available for $0.45 each individually. Here's the links for those directily. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-968857-3-CUT-STRIP?qs=2FIyTMJ0hNlSKAxLPJ6TfQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-968859-3-Loose-Piece?qs=u4fy%2FsgLU9NmCbrZBWoJHA%3D%3D When I did my own solution, I ended up spending about $300 in total because most of the small parts I needed had minimum quantities of 100. So in the end I had enough parts to do 20 or so kits and ended up passing on several to other forum members. In addition to Mouser, another supplier I used for small parts was Jameco Electronis. Although I was mostly using them for computer parts so I am not sure on how well stocked they may be for automotive needs.

One of the first RAM Mount solutions I tried was to address exactly this issue. It has a base that attaches using one of your existing seat mounting bolts. Pull the bolt, put it through the RAM mount, and reinstall. It worked well on my prior vehicle and for just phone holding worked fine on my Transit Connect. The only drawback was the need to slide the passenger seat fully forward to access the storage compartment underneath. The seat would hang up on the mount. The mount I posted above started out using that prior floor mount. I just removed the riser pole from the base and then swapped out the universal phone holder for the wireless charger. But the floor mount using the seat bolt was very firm and bending the pole to reach where I wanted it worked well. And while I was using it, passengers said it was not obtrusive. It was only the large seat movement that started hitting it and made me switch.

Here's some photos from this forum back in 2016 that I copied when I thought they might come in useful for working on my 2015. My apologies to the member who did the original post but I didn't think to make a notation at the time. Based on the file names I gave them at the time, they were from a 2015 cargo version.

My 2020 TC Wagon has the charging cubby so I didn't move the rig in my 2015 TC Wagon over to the new one. But here's a photo of how I had it rigged in my 2015. There's also a couple other photos of how I used RAM parts for other needs in my TC. Almost all the parts are from RAM Mounts, except the wireless charger/holder which was from Tylt. But now RAM has it's own wireless charger/holders so now you can build it all from RAM parts. That's the biggest reason I like RAM, you can mix and match components to meet your specific need. They've got a lot better parts now, including mounting rails with slidable T-fittings. I've only occasionally regretted having my phone in the charging cubby and the screen not visible so I haven't felt the need to install a new RAM rig. But if I do, I'll likely be able to reuse many of the old removed parts and can just add the few new parts that may be useful.

My 2015 had one there but my 2020 does not. Same style and model on both, just upgraded convenience features on the 2020.

Here's my receipt from that purchase at the dealer. Also a photo showing how short the dumb key is once you remove the plastic at the end. Fits much better in a wallet that way.

This morning I did my biggest fill ever (including my prior 2015 TC) on my 2020 after skipping my weekly fill up last week. Ran with the low fuel warning on since yesterday and it showing I was down to 8 miles to empty with the needle solidly into the "E" on the guage. Fill was 14.487 US gallons.

If you just want one to open the doors but not actually start the car, there is a "dumb" key available. I always get one to put in my wallet just in case I accidentally lock my actual key set in the vehicle. Only ever needed it once, but that was well worth the price. But if you just want to seperate the parts on an existing fob, they come apart easy enough. There's a screw unter the pry-off battery cover.

I'll have to figure out where I put them but I can send you a kit of parts you can use to make a free standing triple fuse block. Here's a photo of how I did mine on my old 2015. That setup sued three individual taps but you could just as easily use one tap for the supply, daisy chain it to all three fuses, use one output for the return line to the original fuse output and the other 2 for extra circuits.

Amica had to send mine off for special approval because apparently they all pull up as commercial vans. I had to give them the VIN and initially they wanted photos of the inside showing the rear seats. But then they were able to find the dealer photos and that satisfied them. There was still a delay while it got special approval as non-commercial. But even after determining it was a Wagon, they started asking about why did I need all those seats, was I going to be using it for ride share stuff. I pointed out to them that what I really wanted was a van with front row only but they said that would automatically be commercial. Get a clue. When my mileage for decades has been barely 10k per year, I ain't doing anything commercial with my vehicles.

I've got a set of used WeatherTech mats pulled from my 2015 LWB XLT when I upgraded to a 2020. First row driver/passenger and second row with bench seat. Checked their website and current part numbers are the same for both 2015 and 2017 so should fit. Let me know if you are interested. I would do half of new price on whatever you want plus shipping. Full disclosure: velcro pucks on underside of drivers mat pulled off during removal and were glued back on.

Unlock, pull entire end cap out slightly, spin counterclockwise to loosen clamp, clockwise to tighten. Whole foot just slides back and forth to adjust once clamp is loose. The end cap is just a T-handle on the end of a long square shaft. You can even pull the whole shaft out once it's unlocked. The lock just keeps it from being pulled out and turned. Here some pix from the rails I removed from my 2015 when I upgraded to a 2020 without rails.

On my 2015 TC, when I wanted to add power to the overhead shelf, I used this box intended for motorcycles. What sealed the deal for me was the ability to change between constant power or switched just by moving the fuse on each circuit. https://www.fuzeblocks.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-1-Distribution-Block_p_1.html

2020 daily driver XLT Wagon just purchased in June $77/mo

I use the front outlet on my 2020 XLT to power the dash cam. I did a check once monitoring it about every half hour after shutting off the ignition. It was on after 1.5 hours but off at a little over 2 hours. So I've been going with assuming 2 hours. Haven't seen any battery drain but then again it's a fairly small dash cam.

Here's a pix of the rubber seal on the pass through on my 2015 wagon. Obviously I was trying to get the connector but you can see the seal behind it. It's just a thin push in grommet that just pops out if needed. Easy enough to remove and plenty of room to secure some screening over the hole to keep out bugs. Not sure how much road splash you might get from the rear wheel.

On my 2015 wagon there were several control modules in this are that were covered by the trim, like the fuel pump control module. I suspect one or more of these is under that cover. I know there is also a safety on the passenger side to prevent opening the slider while the fuel door is open and it looks like the photo is in the general area of the latch so it may have something to do with that also. But I'll lay odds that if you take off that cover you'll find important stuff underneath.

I've got a replacement piece of mirror glass for the passenger side on a 2015. Mine had a tiny crack that I figured would eventually get bigger so got a replacement ahead of time. Then I ended up trading it in before I ever got around to repacing it. It's just sitting on the shelf taking up space. PM me an address and I'll send it.

The front port on my 2020 comes on with the ignition but there is a 2 hour delay after shutting off the ignition before the 12v goes off. Haven't used the others.