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I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A

Well I was sort of sitting out on this thread, but I feel like I need to throw my 2 cents in and perhap save you a lot of effort and some money. Just to remove the factory hitch is a pain (unless you just like wrenching) Then you will have to find (junk yard) or fabricate a support structure. A new one is ridiculously priced. You would be way better off to just by a lightweight tow behind trailer. You could just get a cheap dedicated motorcycle trailer and save a lot of money and effort. Personally, if you are only hauling a Grom (ps. I totally dig those!), I would by a lightweight utility trailer with a ramp. That would give you the ability to haul other stuff, and pack extra camping gear next to the Grom. Here is one from Northern Tool. Good luck with whatever you decide!

Based on personal experience, I prefer the old fashion adapter with a wire. OBDII connected to USB port. I bought an inexpensive WiFi OBDII adapter from Amazon. First thing which I noticed was that there were monitors just not available. With a wired connector, I was able to see transmission gear, transmission gear ratio, torque converter slip......not the end of the world. I could still monitor all the temps I wanted. I contacted the Amazon Marketplace seller. I also mentioned that the app was not able to connect to the car's computer in "key on, engine off". I had to start the car, then the app would connect and display information. Sometimes, that took a few minutes. Again, not the end of the world. They sent me a replacement. Same results. Replacement unit worked, or didn't work, exactly as the original unit. I contacted the seller again. The seller refunded the purchase. I now have 2 of these units, free after refund. But what good are they? I can use them for a basic connection to monitor my operating temperatures. Which is fine, and I do use them for that. But they are useless if I want to use Forscan for any programming. I just can't trust something like that. So stay away from the cheap stuff.

I am grateful for that little Gold nugget of info you just laid down there! Cheers amigo.

I have a factory trailer hitch on my 2015 cargo. Not sure if anything has changed with your Back to Future 2919 model, but when the factory hitch is installed the rear bumper is removed. The hitch becomes the fear bumper in addition to providing the hitch component. The bumper cover attaches to that assembly. If you were to remove the factory hitch, you would be without a rear bumper, yes? The aftermarket hitches like the popular Curt model that many forumites have installed mounts below the regular bumper assembly. When I got my van I looked into having a hitch shop reposition the receiver part because I felt it sticks out too much, but they wouldn't do any mods for liability reasons. What type of aftermarket hitch are you installing? There's been lots of discussions on several threads about adding weight to the back of the vehicle on hitches and trailers. You'd have to search the forum for those threads. IMHO, as a hitch mount carrier, I'd be careful adding anything more than a few bicycles to the back of the van. There has to be a weight limit as to how much you can hang off the back of the van, just like the tongue weight of a trailer, which I have no experience or guidance with.

ITSGuy, Your Transit 250 is significantly different from the Transit Connect on this forum. The programming in Ford vehicles varies greatly and even vehicles built on the same platform (Focus, TC, Fiesta) don't have programming that is interchangeable. Forscan can't program every option for every Ford vehicle. The Forscan developers have spent more time on the popular vehicles and much less time on vehicles like the TC and Transit. As a user, we can only see the options and functions that apply to the vehicle we can connect to. So none of us here know what Forscan can do on a full size Transit unless we own one. But, having said all that, here is what you can try/research: 1. Verify the system is reading the cruise control button activity. Find the PIDs in the BCM, PCM or other module related to the cruise control button and verify they change state when pressed. Of course, if the cruise control lights on the IPC illuminate then you know the comm BUS is transmitting the commands from the buttons. 2. Maybe the IPC needs to be configured/programmed. There may be a pre-programmed function or you may have to change values in each register (as built data). Check the Transit forum to see if anyone has done this. Study the IPC as built files from several Transits with cruise control (find a van on Autotrader and use the VIN to get the file from the Motorrcraft website). Ideally, find your exact van (year + options) with cruise control and compare the IPC as built data. Change the registers that are different and see if it works. This is tedious. Back-up EVERY module before you make any changes. 3. The Forscan forum may have some info but it covers every Ford vehicle worldwide so finding a post that covers your exact vehicle is unlikely. There is a solution, but it may take some work to find it.

13.0v - 14.5v is the correct alternator voltage on a 12v system.