Leaderboard

I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.

Thanks for the info . Sounds like a great rig. Having a real tire is the best way and it does go very well where you have it. It would be nice if the 2.5 injection system could handle propane. Here the cost difference is not great enough to make the conversion popular enough to get the companies interested. I will continue to follow your experience with much interest.

I have finished adding 6.5" component speakers in the front door and A pillar. I am pleased with the upgrade and can hear the stereo now! I frequently had the volume at 75% previously. I dont have much to add for helpful info. 1. I noted that adding wire through the door grommet would be impossible. I have to retract that by saying one could add the proper pins after researching the part numbers or if really a risk taker, you could drill through the unused section to pass wire. 2. To remove the a pillar, strip down the rubber trim that cases it. start at the top and work down. There are three clips. 3. I damaged the paint on the door trying to un pop the clips. They are really in there. I find the plastic itself gives or the sheet metal moves on some clips. Others popped right off. I hope to never have to remove it again. Any questions? Feel free to ask. My memory sucks so the sooner the better...

Very Cool We do not get that here unless it has been recently added. Beam height Adjusted under the hood. I guess it is just another thing we do not get. The fog lamp switch on the left I have one what do yours control.

Thanks. The tank looks like a spare. I thought of ordering a space saver but then discovered the original spare fits in the boot like a glove. I also have a can of Fix-a-flat foam. The gauges are independent (ECU cannot display LPG economy figures, it thinks it's gasoline), you can see the Prins button which selects the fuel source. The Prins logo is lit when the engine is running on LPG. The intensity of the LED under the button is ambient light sensitive, really nice touch.The button also has its own level indicator, see the arc of squares. The leftmost square turns amber (from normal blue) when there's 50 miles worth of LPG left. Running out it beeps and switches to gasoline.