MLB Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 I've read the other threads and I'm not seeing it. Straight forward till the drivers seat area. Unlike the other panels the one surrounding the hood release does NOT just pop off and as theres no cutout in the plastic for the release handle I can't figure out how that comes off. ???????? Frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 (edited) If you have a Gen 2 TC, there is a rubber grommet under the carpet pad on the firewall on the drivers side. This post should help: Edited September 23, 2020 by Don Ridley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLB Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i86hotdogs Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Another method I use is running the wire up to the upper corner of the engine bay. There is a small enclosure behind the plastic triangle that is in front of the side mirror. Pop that off, and you can see some through holes. They are not direct in to the interior, so some luck and finagling will have to do. They come through to where the a-pillar tweeters are (for me, there's no tweeters in my version). The a-pillar trim pops off, careful not to damage the curtain airbag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonShockley Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 On 9/30/2020 at 8:23 PM, i86hotdogs said: .... There is a small enclosure behind the plastic triangle that is in front of the side mirror. Pop that off, and you can see some through holes. .... They come through to where the a-pillar tweeters are ..... Here's a photo I took of that area on my 2015 TC. I was adding some protection (the corrugated loom going through the hole) to the dealer installed power supply wire for the trailer hitch wiring kit. Routing through that hole was part of the Ford instructions for the OEM accessory kit. I also used the path up the A pillar for adding my own USB and 12v power points to the overhead shelf (the corrugated loom running next to the hole). i86hotdogs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billet_@bellsouth.net Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 1 hour ago, DonShockley said: Here's a photo I took of that area on my 2015 TC. I was adding some protection (the corrugated loom going through the hole) to the dealer installed power supply wire for the trailer hitch wiring kit. Routing through that hole was part of the Ford instructions for the OEM accessory kit. I also used the path up the A pillar for adding my own USB and 12v power points to the overhead shelf (the corrugated loom running next to the hole). What location did you use in the engine bay to tap into 12V or did you just go directly to the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonShockley Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, billet_@bellsouth.net said: What location did you use in the engine bay to tap into 12V or did you just go directly to the battery? The dealer did the work. Here's the pdf of the trailer wiring instructions that show the tie in and the routing of the power cable. (The instructions cover several models, the Transit Connect stuff starts about 10 pages in, roughly 1/3 of the way down on the page slider) http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/Trailer_Harness_1_28_15v2.pdf These photos aren't the best, but the tie in was attaching th inline fuse holder to one of the bolts on the bottom of one of the large fuse holders on the big metal plate at the front of the battery box, The first photo is looking under the air filter box side, you can just barely see the orange power wire between the white tag and going into the back of the inline fuse holder. The second photo is looking down between the air filter and battery boxes pointing out the nut that it is connected to. Edited October 2, 2020 by DonShockley Forgot to add link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billet_@bellsouth.net Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Thanks for the pic. So apparently this won't work for my project. It's connected directly to the battery feeding 12v continuously without the key being on. I need power only when the key is on. If I can't find a source for that I'll need to use a toggle switch to turn my driving lights on and off. They show in that manual removing the outside panel in front of the mirror but I still can't seem to fish a wire thru to the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 There are lots of circuits in the fuses under the glove box. Find one that is keyed and use it to operate a relay. Connect to a fused connection on the fuse block on the front of the battery. There are many ways to do this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billet_@bellsouth.net Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) 40 minutes ago, Don Ridley said: There are lots of circuits in the fuses under the glove box. Find one that is keyed and use it to operate a relay. Connect to a fused connection on the fuse block on the front of the battery. There are many ways to do this.... I've considered both options. I haven't looked at the interior fuse panel, but I'm told its the same nightmare as the engine fuse box. If I run directly from the battery it means I'm going to have to add a switch and remember to turn it on and off. I've already bought a switch so I'm planning on going that route. BTW, what year is your connect, and does it have the Fuse Box From Hell that the 19-20"s have? Edited October 2, 2020 by billet_@bellsouth.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 No, mine is a 2016. I missed the fact you have the newer model. You definitely have a bigger challenge with that design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Nobody likes to do the obvious. Drill a hole. Of course you will use a grommet, and encase the wiring in split loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billet_@bellsouth.net Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 3 hours ago, Don Ridley said: No, mine is a 2016. I missed the fact you have the newer model. You definitely have a bigger challenge with that design. Yeah, it's just becomes more of a hassle. I have to say, that as much as I like this van, EVERTHING that I've done has been much more work than it should have been. I keep running into roadblocks for every mod I've done. 20 minutes ago, Fifty150 said: Nobody likes to do the obvious. Drill a hole. Of course you will use a grommet, and encase the wiring in split loom. It's the fear of the unknown, LOL. Like I said above, unexpected complications rule the day with this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLB Posted October 6, 2020 Author Share Posted October 6, 2020 On 9/30/2020 at 9:23 PM, i86hotdogs said: Another method I use is running the wire up to the upper corner of the engine bay. There is a small enclosure behind the plastic triangle that is in front of the side mirror. Pop that off, and you can see some through holes. They are not direct in to the interior, so some luck and finagling will have to do. They come through to where the a-pillar tweeters are (for me, there's no tweeters in my version). The a-pillar trim pops off, careful not to damage the curtain airbag. That's where I've been stuck (haven't had time to work on it since). I can thread a wire from the battery through to that front fender, but how you get through to the cab to connect to the wire was the issue. Looks like that grommet is the way to skip that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billet_@bellsouth.net Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 9 hours ago, MLB said: That's where I've been stuck (haven't had time to work on it since). I can thread a wire from the battery through to that front fender, but how you get through to the cab to connect to the wire was the issue. Looks like that grommet is the way to skip that problem. Mine is a 20 cargo van and I finally got a wire thru this weekend following the A pillar instructions above. I didn't go thru the grommet but used a small rectangular hole along side it. When the A pillar is removed you can see light thru to the interior. You can then fish the wire thru and either up to the overhead shelf or down to the dash. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i86hotdogs Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 15 hours ago, MLB said: That's where I've been stuck (haven't had time to work on it since). I can thread a wire from the battery through to that front fender, but how you get through to the cab to connect to the wire was the issue. Looks like that grommet is the way to skip that problem. It's not a direct shot through the a-pillar. It took me some luck and a mangled coat hanger. Once through, it's easy peezy. And there is plenty of room under the dash to run wire to whatever you need to connect to. I have a power wire from the battery going through the passenger a-pillar for my stereo unit, and another going through the driver side a-pillar for my rally lights switch. I'll check on the condition of both wires occasionally for any wear or issues. Haven't found any yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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