2015 TC transmission fluid change

[G B L]

For the most part that is true , I will see a slight rise when I get into the  hilly highways around Vermont when the converter is working harder.

[Fifty150]

If your cooling system is working, there's probably a certain temperature that the fluid does not rise beyond.  Theory would be that system is engineered to operate at certain temperature range; never below x temp when warm, or above x temp.  

[Eddy Kilowatt]

1 hour ago, Fifty150 said:

If your cooling system is working, there's probably a certain temperature that the fluid does not rise beyond.  Theory would be that system is engineered to operate at certain temperature range; never below x temp when warm, or above x temp.  

 

The Gen2 TC (at least) does have a heat exchanger between the trans fluid and the engine coolant, so in principle the trans should warm up faster and then should maintain a steady temperature during operation.  In practice, I monitor mine using the OBD port and ForScan, and it doesn't seem particularly quick to warm up... several miles and/or 10-15 minutes to reach 160-170F (compared to the engine which is really fast, 1-2 minutes to reach 190F).   My trans stays around 165F for most driving including freeway, unless I do a mountain grade of a thousand feet or more, in which case it climbs to around 200F during the climb.   I don't know if this is normal performance for the trans cooling system, but it's what mine does.

[Fifty150]

There is no "normal".  Every car is a little different.  Every person has a different drive style. We all experience different road conditions.  

 

The real concern is overheating.  Modern fluid with modern technology supposedly has much more heat tolerance, and is capable of operating at higher temperatures

[herb]

I think Eddie was meaning "Normal" in " what is considered normal operating temps for the TC in a variety of driving conditions .   A TC generation II with a 2.5 Duratec should be compared to others just like it and they should all be quite similar .  Comparing a TC to a model that shares none of it's components would be considered "Different" , driving styles and road conditions shouldn't vary a great deal , there will still be whats considered a normal operating temp range and one thats way outside the norm.

[Eddy Kilowatt]

Eddy was meaning "normal" in the sense that the fluid temperature is thermostatically regulated, so -- if the plumbing is properly designed and has sufficient control authority -- the temp should fairly quickly go to its setpoint, and then stay there... like the engine coolant temperature does.  It seemed mildly "abnormal" for a regulated system to vary by 35-40 degrees depending on load, but again... my sample size is one, so I have no idea what normal is, and am curious what others might observe.

[Fifty150]

Ford transmissions use a transmission cooler bypass valve to "regulate" the low end of the temperature range.  Until the transmission  fluid reaches a preset temperature, the fluid bypasses the cooling system.  But I don't think are is anything on the high end of the temperature range, except for the wrench light on your dash and the car going into "limp mode".  So once the transmission fluid reaches the right temperature to enter the cooling system, the temperatures will continue to climb.  Theory is that your cooling system works.  If your transmission is heating beyond what the cooling system is capable of maintaining, you get the wrench light & go into limp mode.  At that point, the transmission needs to be looked at.  There's obviously something wrong, with either the transmission, or the cooling system.  

 

I have a ScanGauge II in the pickup.  I can see transmission temps from 180 - 225.  Sometimes the only variable is speed.  Sometimes it's ambient temperature.  Sometimes it's drive time.  Sometimes it's driving up steep grades.  Truck runs exactly the same.  I haven't had any transmission problems like torque convertor shudder, slipping, not engaging, rough shift.....if I didn't have the gauge at all, I wouldn't know what the temperature readings are, and I would just drive it  and think it's fine as long as smoke isn't coming out - like 9 out of 10 people who just drive their cars in ignorant bliss.  

 

Honestly, I don't think that you can find a published chart, anywhere, which will specifically detail that the 6F35 should operate between X temperature to Y temperature, and not exceed Z temperature.  I've looked for similar information myself, with different cars, and it has been unsatisfying.  Trying to find an answer which should exist, but does not.  

 

What you will find online, are generic charts which are antiquated and no longer relevant.  They will show you that transmission fluid begins breaking down @ 200 - 225 - then show you how much damage happens as the temps rise.  But these are old charts, generic and have nothing to do with low viscosity fluid in your 6F35.  

 

I did the 3X drain & fill today.  The vent cap pops right out.  Just lift it out of there with your fingers, no special tool needed. 

 

Drain plug came off with ease.  I was worried that it was torqued down real tight at the factory, like the oil drain plugs.  Not the case with the transmission drain plug.

 

Filling was really easy using a plastic transmission funnel.  I just happen to have a few left over from beer drinking parties.  Just like this one:

I got the van off the ground using UniJacks.  Gave me a lot of room to crawl under and do whatever I wanted.  I was completely safe.  Van could have been lifted even higher if I needed to.  I recommend these.

 

Yes, that's right.  Service work being done on a public street.  You guys with your own lifts are so lucky!

 

[G B L]

Good photo, glad you were not rear ended by a texting  driver.  I have done lots of public street service over the years , including a clutch job on a VW Square Back in front of a pizza parlour.

[Fifty150]

Has anyone else considered a drain & fill with every oil change, or every other oil change?   I don't like the idea of only 4 liter of fresh fluid, then contaminating it. With a drain plug, it's just as much effort to perform the 3X drain & fill, and get more fresh fluid in there. But it's cheap, easy, and better than doing nothing. In the old days, people only dropped the pan, and considered it good enough.  

[Beta Don]

We had an old Mitsu van years ago with an automatic trans famous for not lasting 100K and I did exactly what you're suggesting  -  It had a conventional pan on the trans with a drain plug (fortunately) and also a dipstick to check the level.  Draining it got almost exactly 3 quarts out of it, so I drained and flushed it several times to put full synthetic ATF in it and then I drained and replaced the 3 quarts with every oil change.  Don't know how long it would have lasted  -  My wife was rear ended in it and it was totaled at 88K

 

Now that I've drained and flushed (4X) the TC with Castrol TransMax full synthetic ATF, I do plan to drain out 3 quarts and refill with new every oil change  -  Drain whatever comes out, pour it into 3 empty quart cans, then put the rest back in there with 3 new quarts  -  All this damn trouble because Ford decided NOT to include a dipstick to check the trans level  -  I'm sure not going to go to all the trouble to jack it up level like I did last time.  THAT (and a few other things) means this will very likely be my last Ford purchase.  It's one thing to call a questionable transmission a 'lifetime maintenance free' unit, but it's unforgivable (IMO) to make it so hard to service that you must take it to the dealer to get anything done . . . . especially considering how incompetent so many dealers service techs are

 

Don

 

 

 

 

[Fifty150]

The fill is 4 liters.  No guesswork.  Just drain, and add 4 liters.  That's easier than the 3 quart strategy you are describing. 

 

What's the 3 quart strategy about?  Why 3 quarts?

 

You could also use the fill plug to check for perfect fill level.  I am lazy.  4 liters is in the owners manual.  I am adding 4 liters.

[herb]

22 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

Ford transmissions use a transmission cooler bypass valve to "regulate" the low end of the temperature range.  Until the transmission  fluid reaches a preset temperature, the fluid bypasses the cooling system.  But I don't think are is anything on the high end of the temperature range, except for the wrench light on your dash and the car going into "limp mode".  So once the transmission fluid reaches the right temperature to enter the cooling system, the temperatures will continue to climb.  Theory is that your cooling system works.  If your transmission is heating beyond what the cooling system is capable of maintaining, you get the wrench light & go into limp mode.  At that point, the transmission needs to be looked at.  There's obviously something wrong, with either the transmission, or the cooling system.  

 

I have a ScanGauge II in the pickup.  I can see transmission temps from 180 - 225.  Sometimes the only variable is speed.  Sometimes it's ambient temperature.  Sometimes it's drive time.  Sometimes it's driving up steep grades.  Truck runs exactly the same.  I haven't had any transmission problems like torque convertor shudder, slipping, not engaging, rough shift.....if I didn't have the gauge at all, I wouldn't know what the temperature readings are, and I would just drive it  and think it's fine as long as smoke isn't coming out - like 9 out of 10 people who just drive their cars in ignorant bliss.  

 

Honestly, I don't think that you can find a published chart, anywhere, which will specifically detail that the 6F35 should operate between X temperature to Y temperature, and not exceed Z temperature.  I've looked for similar information myself, with different cars, and it has been unsatisfying.  Trying to find an answer which should exist, but does not.  

 

What you will find online, are generic charts which are antiquated and no longer relevant.  They will show you that transmission fluid begins breaking down @ 200 - 225 - then show you how much damage happens as the temps rise.  But these are old charts, generic and have nothing to do with low viscosity fluid in your 6F35.  

 

I did the 3X drain & fill today.  The vent cap pops right out.  Just lift it out of there with your fingers, no special tool needed. 

 

Drain plug came off with ease.  I was worried that it was torqued down real tight at the factory, like the oil drain plugs.  Not the case with the transmission drain plug.

 

Filling was really easy using a plastic transmission funnel.  I just happen to have a few left over from beer drinking parties.  Just like this one:

I got the van off the ground using UniJacks.  Gave me a lot of room to crawl under and do whatever I wanted.  I was completely safe.  Van could have been lifted even higher if I needed to.  I recommend these.

 

Yes, that's right.  Service work being done on a public street.  You guys with your own lifts are so lucky!

 

 

 

 

 The car going into "limp mode". 

 

 

Oh God not "Limp" mode ,  i hate limp mode !!!!

[herb]

4 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

The fill is 4 liters.  No guesswork.  Just drain, and add 4 liters.  That's easier than the 3 quart strategy you are describing. 

 

What's the 3 quart strategy about?  Why 3 quarts?

 

You could also use the fill plug to check for perfect fill level.  I am lazy.  4 liters is in the owners manual.  I am adding 4 liters.

 

I'm a lazy bastar_ myself , if i could add 4 instead of 3 thats the way i'm going , adding 3 then needing to make an additional effort to add 1 more is just not going to work for me .

[zalienz]

My favorite method in the old days was to disconnect the input of the trans cooler line, run it into a drain pan with the engine running and adding fluid until it came out clean. Seemed to work well as I was capturing all the dirty fluid heading into the cooler. I'm trying to find a way to do that with the TC, but the cooler lines are not easy to work with. But at least you can gauge how much came out by how much went in, and judge the color of the fluid from dark to clean. And easier than the multi drain & refill. The time is coming soon, I'm approaching 30K.

[Fifty150]

8 hours ago, Beta Don said:

I do plan to drain out 3 quarts and refill with new every oil change  -  Drain whatever comes out, pour it into 3 empty quart cans, then put the rest back in there with 3 new quarts  -  All this damn trouble

 

 

I still don't get it.  I read, and reread your post.  Why 3 quarts?  Why would you pour the old fluid back in with 3 new quarts?  Why not just refill with the same amount of old fluid that came out?  Since you've already got the measuring cups out, you could just measure what came out, and refill with that same amount.  No dipstick needed.  

[Fifty150]

1 hour ago, zalienz said:

My favorite method in the old days was to disconnect the input of the trans cooler line, run it into a drain pan with the engine running and adding fluid until it came out clean. Seemed to work well as I was capturing all the dirty fluid heading into the cooler. I'm trying to find a way to do that with the TC, but the cooler lines are not easy to work with. 

 

I do something similar, when possible.  I like to use the return line (between the cooling system and transmission).  My strategy is to allow the pump to push the fluid all the way through the cooling system.  This allows me to see that the transmission pump is actually working, able to push fluid all the way through, and I can see that the transmission cooler is not clogged with contaminant.  In theory, it's also "flushing" out the cooler.  Otherwise, whatever contaminants may be in the cooler, will get pushed back into the transmission when you reconnect the cooling line.  

 

The Transit Connect transmission line connections are on top of the transmission. That is where the flush machine would connect.  The van would be on a lift, the machine under it, and the tech would simply reach up in there to disconnect the cooling system and plug in the machine.   If you unplug the line from there, you would need to connect your own hose, and it needs to have a compatible fitting.  Not as easy to do with jack stands, laying on your back, limited lighting......

 

The other option is to disconnect the return line from the radiator.  You will need a factory service manual to figure out which line to disconnect.  Then you will need transmission hose with the correct fitting to connect to the radiator.  Disconnect the return line, connect your own line, and fluid can be pumped into a bucket.  I don't have a service manual.  I have no idea which lines going in & out of the radiator serve which purpose.  Not so sure of what kind of fitting attaches to the radiator.  I don't even know how the cooling system is routed on the Transit Connect.  I am fairly certain that the lines under the radiator hose, next to the transmission vent cap and running along the top of the transmission, are cooling and return lines.  

 

On other car forums, there's usually a guy who works at the dealership as a tech.  That guy would simply post pics of the best place to disconnect, what special tools you will need, and the best way to tap into it.  I suppose nobody on this forum is a dealership tech.  

 

Luckily, the drain plug is available, and the vent cap fill is easy.  Maybe it's not 100% fresh fluid.  But a triple drain & fill does a pretty good job.  The math is easy.       4 liters is US 135 1/4 ounces  4 quarts = 1 gallon = 128 ounces.  So if you have 4 quarts, or a 1 gallon bottle, you will still need a little more than 7 ounces.  You could simply buy an extra quart. If you buy a case of 12 quarts, set 4 quarts aside, then steal a little bit from each of the other 8 quarts.  Doesn't matter, since those are the quarts you will drain out.  If you're really unsure of pouring out a little bit, and not trusting the marks on the side of your quart bottle..........get one of those little cups that you pee into.  A lab specimen cup is marked with measurement lines, and free if you steal it from your doctor's office.  

 

 

[Fifty150]

2 hours ago, zalienz said:

The time is coming soon, I'm approaching 30K.

 

 

Why wait?  Just do it at 25,000 miles.  That's my strategy.  I'll just do it every 25,000 miles.  With Transit Connect's Oil Life Monitor,  that could be 3 oil changes.

 

I did mine yesterday.  Since I already had the fluid, and I wanted to change the oil on all the cars before summer.  Car was already jacked up.  Tools were out.  Buckets & funnels were out.  

 

Should I wait for 50,000 miles before I do it all over again?  Or should I just drain & fill with every oil change?

[G B L]

Here is another opinion of no merit , I have changed mine 3 times at 25000 intervals . the out going fluid has looked the same each time.  I used Mercon fluid , Valvoline trans Max and this last one was Triax fluid I will report back on the Triax  in 18000 miles

[Fifty150]

Your findings have merit.  Now we know that Valvoline MaxLife works.  We will also know about Triax, after your cycle.  

[Beta Don]

10 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

I still don't get it.  I read, and reread your post.  Why 3 quarts?  Why would you pour the old fluid back in with 3 new quarts?  Why not just refill with the same amount of old fluid that came out?  Since you've already got the measuring cups out, you could just measure what came out, and refill with that same amount.  No dipstick needed.  

 

You could do that, no problem

 

I'm going to put 3 new quarts in and I don't want to have to check the fluid level every time because since Ford opted not to give us a dipsrick, checking fluid level is very complicated  -  So, since I'm going to put in 3 quarts, I only want to remove exactly 3 quarts, so anything more than 3 that comes out goes back in with the 3 new quarts.  Quick, simple (or as simple as Ford will allow) and (relatively) easy

 

Don

[Fifty150]

On 4/28/2019 at 3:51 AM, G B L said:

The Scan tool I use gives Real time data on the Fluid temp.

 

The TC is at the top  for temp. 

 

 

On you van, what types of temperatures are you seeing?  After all day of driving, I saw 205 in stop & go traffic.  Then it cooled down a little under 200 at highway speed.  I have this hill which starts at a dead stop, goes up almost 1,000 feet, within 1/2 mile, at 50 mph speed limit.  The temp climbs about 10 degrees by the time I get to the top.  

Holiday weekend.  Who is changing their motor oil & transmission fluid?

 

 

 

 

[Double Nickels]

The ATF is almost black.  Should have sent that for analysis.

[G B L]

The stop and go driving and hill climbs unlock the converter.  Most of the heat is generated by the converter.  The hotter the fluid runs the shorter the life.

Looks like your fluid has the same look as mine when i changed it. 

I think the 25000 mile interval is about all you want this fluid to go. 

On my other van and pickup the temp stays around 160 unless I am towing.  The fluid stays clear much longer.

[Double Nickels]

I hear that modern engines, transmissions, and fluids are designed for higher temps.  In the old days, they said 190 degree Fahrenheit.  OEM thermostat opens at 190.  Transmission cooler bypass valves close at 190.  I don't know how accurate it is, but I hear the number 212 degree Fahrenheit, 100 degree Celsius, a lot these days.  

[Double Nickels]

2 hours ago, G B L said:

 

Looks like your fluid has the same look as mine when i changed it. 

Transmission fluid is darker than the motor oil.

 

TC definitely needs to be serviced.  I would not do just a single drain & fill.  I will drain and fill 3 times on mine.