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Willygee, September 14, 2017 in Brakes, Chassis & Suspension
Just make sure the weight rating matches.
I have a set of ramps. I even used them when installing the new hitch.
but, the front air dam WILL severely rub on them if trying to lift the front.
I have a set of the poly ramps and use them for oil changes - The air dam clears them fine. I have no idea if the steel ones he's asking about will work or not
Don what brand are your ramps? They must have the right ramp angle. The ramps in your picture have too much ramp angle.
Mine are yellow plastic 'Rhino Ramps' - "Another Blitz built product, made in the USA". I bought them at Wal Mart years ago. They come in several colors and are rated at 12,000 pounds per pair - Not bad for polyethelene!!
The newer versions are a little fancier and a bit more costly - I think I paid $25 for mine
I have one of these....where would be the best position and would the flat lift pad need and adapter to simulate the factory scissors jack which seems to have a notch in it for the TC chassis? Also where to place safety stands?
I made an adapter puck out of a block of wood. Made a slit in one side to match the lift point.
You can put the support under control arm attachment points, body side.
For the best jack stands, if you have the money - see
The center top comes off, set it on top of your floor jack, and the base wraps around the jack in the raised position. Then lower the car onto the stand, and pull the floor jack out.
I use it on my mobile service van along with a OTC aluminum racing jack. This eliminates the age old question of where to put the jack stand after lifting the vehicle at the factory location. Effing brilliant. They are light and works correctly every time. And safety - way stronger than any stamped steel or plastic ramp.
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