103west43rd

Ok hdrider, here is a path to the Ford parts....... http://www.fordparts.com/ then "search by model", "Body", "Roof", set "Show per page to 75, at the bottom half of both pages are all the roof rails and racks (including long wheel base models), some even with pictures. Enjoy.

hdrider, thanks for posting about the 2014 Transit Connect. As in 2009 when the Transit Connect first came to the US, those of us who were early adopters needed to find our own answers. You seem to be in that same place with the 2014! The Ford factory accessory online catalogue shows Thule crossbars that work with Ford factory rails, so the factory rails must exist. The Ford "Build your Transit Connect" site lists the roof rails as a $135 accessory. Good luck and please keep this forum updated. As a further update, the Ford online parts catalogue, http://www.fordparts.com/Default.aspx?gnav=nav:home , lists roof rails under parts numbers 55122A, 55122B, 513A08A and the roof rack under parts numbers 55100, 55100A, 55100B and 55100C. The interesting item is part number HN1 which seems to be the mounting plugs you mentioned. I usually say go to another Ford dealer when they do not seem to be interested in helping a customer with information. The dealer you are dealing with at least took out the plugs to check, so they are worth staying with. Tell them to look harder for your answers!

Willie, it is a bronze/copper color. Looks nice.

Keep the info coming Cosmin. Audio upgrades are always a popular and helpfull posting. Thanks for the specifics about the 2013 Transit Connect wiring.

Welcome intfin. Since this is the US Transit Connect forum and we do not have diesel engines, only our UK/EU members (Like mrtn, thanks mrtn) will be able to really help. Expand your search for an answer by trying the UK Transit Connect forum at http://fordtransit.org . They seem to be a very helpful group. Please continue to monitor our site, other than the engine and transmission (only automatics here), our site has been a good source of information for many members. Good Luck.

hdrider, are you sure you want to buy your Transit Connect from a dealer that will not take the time to get the owners manual out of the glove box and look up where the aux input is? As per the owners manual on the Ford website in my previous post, the aux input is in the center console. Yes, according to the Ford 2014 Transit Connect website http://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/transitconnect-commercial/ , the USB port comes with the SYNC option.

Hello hdrider. As per the 2014 Ford Transit Connect owners manual, there are 2 USB ports, 1 audio port and 1 SD card slot in the center console (Ford calls it the Media Hub) with the Ford Sync option. Here is the URL to search for the 2014 owners manual, https://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/OwnerGuidePageVehicleLookup&BackToLogin=Owner/Page/OwnerGuidePage&ord=93039680 , One last item, if your Ford dealer did not have the courtesy to look up the answer to your question, find one that knows how to treat a customer before you buy your new Transit Connect. Please keep this forum updated if you purchase a 2014 as we transition our dialogue from the 2010-2013 first generation in the US. Good Luck.

I sent you a PM about the tires. Thanks.

zombiechad, just outstanding! Where have you been the last three years? I read from your other posts that you have sold your Transit Connect. Too bad for this forum. As for your lowering design, is it similar to the way our UK cousins flip the rear axle? Once again, terrific posts. Thank you.

Hello Jack. Please use the search at the top of the page. Enter "fog lights" and chose Forum. There are four pages of discussions about fog lights. It has been one of the most discussed topics on the forum. As you mentioned, there are two different bumper covers. The bumper cover meant for factory fog lamps has the mounting brackets moulded into the opening. As for the bumper cover with the "juicers", as you will see from the search results, everyone has made their own mountings. I have had two different mounts on mine. At first I went for the easiest solution and just bought Hella lights with a round body, used a hole saw to cut a hole down the middle of the juicer and just slipped them in and attached them from the rear with their supplied mounting. It took about ten minutes per side. About a year later I purchased a set of fog lamps from eBay that included mounting that matched the factory look. It involved cutting out the entire "juicer" (took only a few minutes). Once they were installed, it is hard to tell the difference for factory. Check my gallery for pictures of both sets. Your dealer did not do you any favor by selling you the factory lights. The factory lights will need you to make custom mounting brackets just as any aftermarket fog light will (except for my eBay purchase). Many of the postings about fog lamps contain ideas about brackets. Good Luck.

This will be similar to the Transit Connect we will be getting in 2014 http://www.autoevolution.com/news/2014-ford-tourneo-connect-gets-5-star-euro-ncap-rating-video-71964.html

Glad it worked out. That is what counts. If I find an idea about trim, I will let you know. Keep coming back to the Forum, plenty of interesting ideas floating around!

cosmicray, Ford lost the savings of the 'Chicken Tax' last January. Here is the story, http://www.autoblog.com/2013/09/23/ford-in-trouble-with-us-customs-chicken-tax/

Look at this "Hot Wheels" Transit Connect, http://www.autoblog.com/2013/11/06/ford-hot-wheels-transit-connect-sema-2013/

Yes it is.

transformer, we answered your question on your original post, check here http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2203-looking-for-rear-bench-seat-sliding-door-windows-for-sale/#entry6527 Good Luck.

Hello John, there is not enough detail in your post, but if I assume it is the driver's door lock unit, I think your dealer would have to remove the interior door panel to troubleshoot the noise. If they did, they would unplug the lock unit to see if the "noise" stopped. Just tell them to leave it unplugged and put the door back together! Let us know the outcome and good luck.

cosmicray, it's a new vehicle, let the dealer fix it!

cosmicray, the sliding door window panels are gluded in. Any window seal removing tool(like a hot glue knife) will work. Also count on replacing the gasket. All Transit Connects come into this county with glass in the doors. The glass is removed and solid panels are installed (as are the rear seats removed) for the van models.

Hello transformer. The sliding door windows are available out on the internet. A quick look turned up http://www.trucknvans.com/product-p/fw290l.htm and I am sure the local automotive glass installers also can provide pricing and availability.

By way of the UK Transit Connect Forum (103daz, no relation). https://www.etis.ford.com/home.do It is a factory site meant for independent service facilities. Using the "Vehicle" tab does not require registration. Enter your VIN and it will return everything that was on your window sticker. Good for our forum members that purchased used Transit Connect's.

gordow, the rubber duckie antenna screws into the antenna base. From your story, it reads like the base is still attached to the roof and the antenna is what broke off? Have you got on a ladder and looked at the base? The end of the antenna may be still attached, if so, just unscrew it and go to any Ford dealer and buy a new one.

Hello Adrian. Use the search feature at the top of the page. Enter "seats" and search in "forum". There are 5 pages of entries concerning seats. You should be able to find all the info you need, including seats for sale. Good Luck and welcome to the forum.

Not too much to add to what you have tried. As I am sure you know, the fuse blowing is usually do to only two reasons, too much current in the circuit or the positive side of the circuit shorting to ground. Assuming nothing else has been connected to the circuit (that eliminates a current overload), I would try removing the stop light bulbs and then press the brake pedal and see if it still blows the fuse. Does not happen often, but the blub could short internally. If the fuse still blows, that leaves you with a short to ground as the remaining possibility. if you have a VOM meter, test the bulb socket (with the bulb still removed). There are 3 wires to the socket. Only one (black) should show connectivity to ground. If more than one wire shows connectivity to ground, you have a short in your wiring at the socket or somewhere in the van. One last remote possibility. The floor shifter interlock is also in the circuit. Try disconnecting it. Good luck, you have a tough problem.

I agree with the CrazySwede, alot of things out there in the dark we need to see. CrazySwede, look at my gallery to see how I turn night into day. Looking forward to how your lighting turns out.