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JoeMan

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Everything posted by JoeMan

  1. The partition modification will KILL you or a passenger in an accident the way it has been modified, especially in any side or rear impact unless your wearing a helmet of course. Otherwise a nice build.
  2. This partition will KILL you or a passenger in an accident the way it has been modified, especially in any side or rear impact.
  3. Here you go for newer models. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6077-how-to-connect-power-for-amps-inverters-and-other-high-current-loads/
  4. Here is a clean way to do it or use the large grommet behind the glove box but be careful removing hinge pins in the box or you'll break the hinges.
  5. Don, I wish I would of saw that thread earlier as it's a much cleaner way.
  6. Check out Mike Chell's thread on his van and his video about installing the back up camera. It shows him removing the glove box which gives access to the fuse box and also the large grommet through the fire wall that houses the main wiring harness and that will be your best bet through he firewall. Just make sure to remove the pins to the glovebox before trying to get behind the box or you'll break the plastic hinge attachment points. It seems like you can open the box further without removing the pins but you'll break them if you try. Don't ask me how I know
  7. Wish I saw your video before I tried to remove my glove box and cracked 1 side trying to get it out before figuring out the right way
  8. Don't try and pull it off on the side doors as it will rip some where. Just slice around the inner edge of the glue, sound proof and insulate reglue and call it a job well done and enjoy the sound of the door closing with a high end vehicle solidness closing. It just feels good to close that door and it doesn't sound like a tin can
  9. I think this thread below will help. Good Luck getting a tech to do it though.
  10. Yep, Same here except I don't bother with the time reset and I don't have the factory backup camera. I just have the camera I installed and it displays on the new nav unit. The old screen just displays temp and I cover the other stuff with black tape. Was thinking about a nice pic though.
  11. There held in by plastic clips all around the edges. Your best bet is to get a cheap set of plastic interior panel tools. They come in handy if you plan on doing any interior mods. It makes trim pieces a lot simpler to remove with minimal damage to things, usually.
  12. That thing is loaded. Special order?
  13. I'm sorry your still getting the run around it is such a simple fix with the right knowledge being handed to them. Why do they dealers risk making you go to someplace else or to another brand? I'm just glad I got mine done as I smile every time I open the doors and the lights don't come. To me it would be worth it any ways to spend the money to correct the problem because what I mainly want the van for is camping and astronomy pursuits and I hate any unnecessary lighting anywhere period. With what I already spent on a roof rack and adding a battery and some other items that would be a small price in the grand scheme of the build . Speaking of builds maybe I better start a build thread when I get a chance.
  14. Even with your advice I broke the hinges. I struggled to get the pins out with the limited space under the dash but couldn't get the screwdriver in to pop them. Then I tried opening the glove and going over the top and next thing I know I hear a crack. Whoops. Pins came out after that. Looks like the weight of the glovebox rests on the top where it's not broke and won't be to much of an issue just sucks it just seems like an easy thing till you try. Bad design.
  15. Thanks for the heads up on the glovebox. If I broke something it wouldn't be the first thing I screwed up and I've only had it a month. I already had to retap a D-ring tie down thread hole. Doh!
  16. I'm about to add the add a battery kit and you mentioned going through the grommet behind the glove box. Did you remove the glove box and if you did was it hard to get out?
  17. Windguy don't give up. If I could do it with no prior knowledge of IDS software an experienced service tech should be able to do it. The steps outlined in the document were spot on. I wondered if he updated the PCM and not the BCM? I bet that is what my original tech did when I brought it to the dealer and told him to do the update and because of that, that is exactly why I tried disabling without doing my BCM first and of course it didn't work because my TC was built prior to that 2016 date in the document. When the service writer said the lights couldn't be done. I wish I could of saw exactly the steps the tech took instead of sitting in the waiting room for over an hour hoping for the right outcome and then getting the brush off when they obviously didn't do what I told them about the update but I had no way of proving it at that time. It took me a little over 15 minutes from the time my guy plugged it in and when we had it all reprogrammed .
  18. I'm a happy camper now thanks to the info provided above. I was talking to someone and mentioned the problem I was having with the lights and whether I should call the dealer again. He told me to call a certain person to see if he could help as he deals with repairing Ford fleet vehicles. I brought the van to him and hooked it up. Initially we tried the steps outlined in the document without the BCM update and it did not work. We went to the BCM Programming and updated to the latest version of the BCM and he told me it was up to me to push the button to do the install as he didn't want to be the one to screw things up and me to blame him. Now I even have a greater knowledge of how the IDS software works and how much dealers will try to blow you off instead of getting the correct answers. Thanks for that info it was spot on
  19. Thanks, did not read the manual about the locks. I didn't know it was an issue till packing up for the day. I'll give it look as this won't be the last time the battery will be disconnected as I'll be do some more wiring in the back in the near future.
  20. I was installing a backup camera today in my 2017 LWB Van and I was running the wires behind the dash and took out the radio to fish the wires behind. Decided to call it a day and was going to leave a few tools inside. Problem was I couldn't lock the doors as I had disconnected the battery. Am I missing something or is this a new trend in vehicles to save a few pennies? Never had this problem with any vehicle I ever owned. Just another little nagging thing besides the lights on everytime I open the doors.
  21. I got a Keypad for the right price from a friend that didn't put it on his F350: Free I'm not sure what the part# is but it worked. This is what worked for me on my 2017 and I have 4 keys: From driver’s seat: Fasten front seat belts, place shifter in PARK and arrange to operate the 2 integrated key transmitters (IKT) that came with vehicle and the Remote Keypad to be programmed. Unlock doors with one of the key transmitters Insert a transmitter key in ignition and quickly (within 6 seconds) cycle ignition switch from OFF to RUN 8 times ending in OFF position. Press door lock button on each of the two key transmitters in succession. Then, press the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons on the Remote Keypad simultaneously for 2 seconds. Button lights will go out on remote keypad 10 seconds after the last operation. Test remote unlocking operation of IKTs by pushing the unlock button and the remote keypad using the 5-digit factory code. Test locking operation by pressing 7/8 + 9/0 keys on keypad simultaneously.
  22. Tried to have this done also this morning with my dealership and had no luck also. They said it couldn't be done then I mentioned a TSB and a firmware update, he did find something in the ford site but not really sure if he found the right one. They tried again but had no luck. He said he put a request into ford for help. He said he get back to me. Sure. Any help would be great as this is also such a bummer for camping.
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